The bolts you need are fairly common. I think they are M8x1.25, probably 25mm long. Look up at Brit Car or local dealer.

If you really need work done on your box then I’d say an Ashcroft box is not a bad buy. I recently reconditioned my box - no point just doing 1st/2nd synchro, you could do with new bearings and baulk rings too, plus whatever else you find is wrong, plus labour if you don’t do it yourself. Much...

I have a new connector now so I’m going to make up a new shielded cable and connector this evening and try it with both shims and a second CPS to rule that out.

The gearbox is refurbed and came from an early D2, there was no shim. My original gearbox from this facelift had no shim - despite info on here saying that manuals have a shim and autos don’t. I initially fitted with no shim and had trouble starting. Then I made a .5mm shim and got it to...

Yes, they do. It seems odd but I can’t remember if they are supposed to all go off during cranking or not.

Can’t feel it but I’ll have a smell this evening.

A bit of background: I’ve recently changed both gearboxes and have been working on a few gremlins from that - mainly shimming the CPS. Yesterday, I found that the engine hit a brick wall around 3,000 RPM. A bit of research pointed to the turbo related bits. Now, I drove it back home keeping...

Having just spent 6-7 months refurbishing both gearboxes and fitting them last week, (no, that’s not the easy bit, it was a pig of a job), I had hoped that that my work was done for a while. However, upon starting up, I heard a clanger in the engine bay. I found that the viscous fan was hitting...

I certainly do appreciate it. The trouble is though, the more space you have, the more mess you make. I wouldn’t be without it though. I’ve done my share of laying on the road or cold concrete.

I’ve been swapping out the gearboxes and also going to do the Watts link bushes. Oh, what a mess! How some of you guys do this on the driveway I don’t know. Most of the tools were for getting the crossmember off. All but one bolt sheared so I have a task to drill that lot out and re-thread.

I previously swapped the engine so rear oil seal and spigot bearing was done. Also 3 part clutch and DMF. I was concerned about the fork etc so the nylon bush sounds like it should be done. Is there a small metal clip or retainer somewhere in there?

I know you’ve changed the copper injector seals but this is exactly the fault I’ve just had and I found an obvious gas leak under one of them - probably caused by grit underneath the seal. It’s probably not enough just to replace the seals but to ensure that the mating surface of the head is...

I’m going to swap out the manual gearbox on my D2, what other bits inside the bell housing should I replace while it’s out? The clutch has already been done but what about all of the release arm gubbins? Are they likely to fail randomly?

I have one if you want to buy? £55 inc post? A bit more if you’re in the Highlands.

Smithy, are you sure you didn’t fit the O ring in the wrong groove the first time? The injector has two grooves but only the top one is for the O ring. Could your runaway engine be due to fuel going into the turbo from the sump up the drain tube and finding its way into the compressor? Good job...

The mould was white and furry. Just like you get on some food. I've never seen it on an engine before and lead me to believe that the water hadn't been flowing at all for a long time. I did flush the rad and got some gunk out but not enough to stop flow. The water pump looked ok with no broken...

I have a Disco TD5 which I bought some time ago, supposedly with a good engine. It has been run recently but soon over heated. Upon stripping the engine down, I found really dry coolant channels with coolant crystals here and there and mould! To me, this looks like coolant has not been run...

Seems to be M10 1.25 thread pitch.

Well I would expect a difference given the different numbers and plunger travel as you say but I've measured the lobes fairly accurately and, while there are small differences on lobes along one camshaft, there are no larger differences between camshafts. It was the duration that I have no way...

Hi Does anyone know the length and thread pitch of the alternator/vacuum pump banjo please? I know it's an M10. Part number YYG100620. Thanks