I was referring to the jpeg you linked by someone else 7 years ago about their loss of power, which they put down to the wrong injectors.

If you're still concerned, you have two choices - get a 10p head back on it or get a 15p engine and ECU. My guess is that a 10p head won't improve your power loss. A 15p engine may bring its own problems if used.

I wouldn't believe that. Not saying it's all wrong but I don't believe you get a loss of 60% performance. You wouldn't get over 40mph like that. There would have been a separate issue for such a loss of power, I think. Or injector clearances not set properly.

Crazy 4 duck, are you there mate? I've PMd you about this.

Yes, I laugh when I see someone on eBay selling a "good used cam carrier".

Sounds like the caliper is sticking on, setting off the ABS sensor and heating the disc. Or the other way round, heated disc setting off the sensor.

We had a thread before talking about the differences in cams. It seemed at the end, that the only difference was the part number from early to late models. If you have the rocker cover off and rotate the cam, you will see the part number etched on the front end, looking straight down. Quite hard...

Left hand drive? Are the wires to the temp sensor shorting out somewhere?

Ok, I replied to an earlier post and didn't read all the way through to see that you fixed the water loss.

I had an overheating engine and I did not see a colour change in the sniffer test. However, it was actually a warped block that was leaking the gas. I'm not saying thst your block is also warped but that sniffer test may not be completely reliable. If I were you, I would replace the water pump...

PM sent

£15 with post? I'll see if I can do any test on it before sending, see if I can determine which was faulty.

I'm not so sure that so many POs strip the threads. Isn't it that a steel bolt and aluminium housing corrodes, evectively turning the threads to dust? When you try to take the bolt out, the threads are gone and the PO gets the blame. Si, looks like you're doing that fuel filter up!

I had this and had no leaks. I never found out for sure what the problem was but I think it was the air valve that diverts air to left and right bags. It sits under the off side front corner. I have now scrapped the vehicle and I have the rear valve if you want it for a few ££. It looks exactly...

These are the only parts I have left from a 2006 Zermatt Silver (LRC798) D3 Open to reasonable offers, post extra, but large stuff will need collection from IP11 0RG Rear doors complete £50 Driver's door with mirror £70 Passenger mirror £40 Front passenger window regulator £15 Upper tailgate...

Yes, they're both done already. I agree that 10 years is way too long for all of this stuff.

So, after another 10 litres of ATF flushed through, this is the oil from the last drain off to set the correct level. A lot clearer than after the first 10 litres. I'm a lot happier now that it's done. I got the PTU drained and refilled while I was at it so all fluids now done bar the PAS...

Jeez! and you drive a Land Rover? It must cost you a fortune in oil! I joke of course. Newer models seem to have sorted most of the leaking problems of older models.

I've been doing some work on a Series, and I know from my D2 when I got it that people don't change diff oil or gearbox oils very often, if at all. I think it gets overlooked. Either people don't look underneath and don't know they are there or don't know how to do it. If they take their car to...

Snaggapuss - I managed to get 10 litres for £40, which I thought was quite enough. But, having seen the oil coming out, I'd rather spend another £40 than have to change the box if it fails. Freespaña - yes, the motor filter was quite full. I'm a lot happier now that these things are getting done.