you wont round a 12.9 m8/10/12 .... it will destroy the allen key first.... as for rusting in place... I am fairly certain a copperslipped bzp is going to rust in situ far less than Landrovers originals which took hours to cut chisel n drill out when I stripped to a chassis :) most of the...

take a wedge of notes to a local bolt supplier n buy boxes.... I have loads and prob 10% of what a so called bolt kit costs... and I swopped every bolt for 12.9 bzp sockets... far better...and far better looking imho cheers steve

meteox is showing rain till 1030 ish then a clear window until about 1700... may not be too bad.. cheers steve

pop the crossmember out whilst your at it.... paint n copperslip the hidden mounting face to death.... so many good chassis end up holed in this area and its a simple quick job cheers steve

lol... as good as they came out ... bodywork is my nemesis... hate it cos there always seems to be something missed... problem is now the doors have come out so well i'm looking at the rear tub I fitted thinking hmm I may need to revisit it n do all the little nicks n dinks... arghhhhhh...

my repair bits came from ebay, plenty of sellers and decent quality, the upright repair was made of the only piece of bottom rail left intact lol cheers steve

Oh and used stainless fixings....

I made a mistake and only painted the outside .... Oops rust trails with a week.... Just removed em all, wire wheeled to bare metal, dipped in kurust n allowed to dry, primed front n back with high build and finished with a gloss black topcoat front and back, then mounted with lots of copper...

I had no bottom rails left, £20 worth of bits off ebay n job done, used a thick non setting mastic after painting the new panel so shouldn't react any more... removed the remaining rust n painted tried the panel in place clamp glue n weld rot had spread to the upright so...

3/4 of the way through my full rebuild as well.... at this rate we should have a 110 csw rebuild board lol and if your bored I have pictures to date in a flickr album.... https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_wild_boar/sets/72157634731807492/ cheers steve

mad hat man... what grade stainless is equivalent to 12.9 high tensile?? the strength of many landrover structural bolts?? I visited a lot of suppliers and did a lot of research when starting my rebuild and all said not available??? after a lot of digging I went down the bzp route and seems a...

some pics of my full strip n rebuild here if it helps anyone... 110 csw https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_wild_boar/sets/72157634731807492/ cheers steve

got the front ally door tops stripped and sprayed on the inside... and got the lower doors sorted with a bit of knifing putty to sort the last few blemishes... doesn't seem much but body prep is so long winded.. arghhh Cheers Steve

managed to paint the fuel filter housing n fit... and do the door repair.. new bottom rail and cannabalised a small bit off the old one to repair the vertical bit... half a tub of non setting sealer n jobs a good un....

remount your garage door on side hinges... will give you a good 3 or 4 inches

16" once the right wheels n tyres go on lol cheers steve

seats in mine are classic range rover... cheers steve

any reason u need 3 seats?? would a range rover classic 60/40 not do???? technically it still seats 3?? and cost £50 for fronts n rears... cheers steve

dash is easy... sand the cracks buy some vinyl in a colour of your choice n recover... plastikote paint is perfect for all the plastic bits... seats are up to you.. standard are easy but why not go for comfort... cheers steve

yep apart from the rear bulkhead cheers steve