If you fit polybushes then buy good ones, cheaper ones are crap.
Not all bolts are the same, some are metric some are not.

They are the correct bolts but failing that I'll have some spares kicking around somewhere. ill go have a look just now for some decent bushes, I'm not bothered about whether or not they're poly but hopefully there's a bit less to go wrong with those
I have used Britpart oem with no problem.
Since you have now learned a valuable lesson you would do well to replace your other aftermarket with oem. You can buy a kit for not a great deal of money.
I've never have had issue even fitting cheap stuff before (and I usually do). This is the first time I've had parts consistently fail
 
If you fit polybushes then buy good ones, cheaper ones are crap.
Not all bolts are the same, some are metric some are not.
Sounds mad for me but I do have blue bag panard poly bushes on mine. Could not get any others at the time. Do have super flex for for other bushes.
 
Sounds mad for me but I do have blue bag panard poly bushes on mine. Could not get any others at the time. Do have super flex for for other bushes.
Luck of the draw I guess. The first bushes we fitted were Britpart poly bushes to the panard rod, failed in less than a week.
Replaced with Britpart OEM and have been good since.
 
Sounds mad for me but I do have blue bag panard poly bushes on mine. Could not get any others at the time. Do have super flex for for other bushes.

I ran britpart poly on my panrod for a while, when they fail you know about it instantly, and being poly they are only about 10 min to swap over so I was not too worried about fitting them. They lasted me a couple of year a set with the mileage I do so did not do badly. I am currently running a superpro set which again have no complaints and have been in for a couple of years now.
I have a mix of poly and oem on mine!
 
Have you jacked it up with the weight off the wheels and got someone with a large bar or plank to move the wheels up and down while you examine everything ?? I’m sure @miktdish suggested this early on and that would be my first attack at this. If it’s as bad as you say, something must be showing an obvious fault. Be thorough and go over everything carefully.
Is that yours in the Panhard video or just an example ? If that’s yours then surely that’s the problem 🤔
 
Have you jacked it up with the weight off the wheels and got someone with a large bar or plank to move the wheels up and down while you examine everything ?? I’m sure @miktdish suggested this early on and that would be my first attack at this. If it’s as bad as you say, something must be showing an obvious fault. Be thorough and go over everything carefully.
Is that yours in the Panhard video or just an example ? If that’s yours then surely that’s the problem 🤔
Yeah that's mine in the video. Everything else is solid besides that and when id taken it off the rubber had become detached. No idea what's going on but I've ordered a poly set and I've also managed to get a febi set from my local motor place. I'll fit the Febi ones first and see how they go, I've got the drop arm balljoint to do in the meantime anyway as my old one was absolutely packed with crap and dirt, I'm surprised it still worked at all
 
Yeah that's mine in the video. Everything else is solid besides that and when id taken it off the rubber had become detached. No idea what's going on but I've ordered a poly set and I've also managed to get a febi set from my local motor place. I'll fit the Febi ones first and see how they go, I've got the drop arm balljoint to do in the meantime anyway as my old one was absolutely packed with crap and dirt, I'm surprised it still worked at all
I hope you get there mate. Sounds like a proper nightmare.
 
Drop arm balljoint done. Absolute piece of cake of a job, especially when you've got the right tools. Dunno what all the faff is about lol. New panhard rod bushes pressed in and that'll be going on tonight. The Febi ones are great quality and just look at the difference between those and the sleeve of the supposedly good quality aftermarket one i just removed. Also helps that my local motor place gives me a hefty discount so those Febi ones cost me a fiver each.
 

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I had almost this exact same issue not so long ago, exacerbated when towing.

I replaced my drop arm ball joint, which impoved it, but was still getting a strange feeling through the steering going into corners hard or towing, I checked everything you have and re adjusted both front wheel bearings which had very little play tbh.
Although my rear a frame bush seemed set like concrete and had no clicks or knocks when pulling off I decided to change it, as it was the only joint on the whole vehicle that I never had! I fitted a genuine lemforder unit with greasenipple and honestly, my steering is back to being like on rails!!
Weird that it can show hardly any signs of wear, even under a big breaker bar, but it completely solved all my issues!
I run polybushs' all round, on both rear trailing arms, front radius, pan hard, steering damper and shock, they've been on for nearly 9 years and show no signs of wear, I rate them highly!
 
I had almost this exact same issue not so long ago, exacerbated when towing.

I replaced my drop arm ball joint, which impoved it, but was still getting a strange feeling through the steering going into corners hard or towing, I checked everything you have and re adjusted both front wheel bearings which had very little play tbh.
Although my rear a frame bush seemed set like concrete and had no clicks or knocks when pulling off I decided to change it, as it was the only joint on the whole vehicle that I never had! I fitted a genuine lemforder unit with greasenipple and honestly, my steering is back to being like on rails!!
Weird that it can show hardly any signs of wear, even under a big breaker bar, but it completely solved all my issues!
I run polybushs' all round, on both rear trailing arms, front radius, pan hard, steering damper and shock, they've been on for nearly 9 years and show no signs of wear, I rate them highly!
I might need to try this as I'm still getting that rattle and wobble through the steering and can't think what else to change. I'll see if my local motor place can get one in for me as they always have good brand name stuff anyway
 
I might need to try this as I'm still getting that rattle and wobble through the steering and can't think what else to change. I'll see if my local motor place can get one in for me as they always have good brand name stuff anyway
I got mine from Gwyn Lewis, I'm lucky in that he lives a couple of villages away so I dropped in and one of his friendly daughters helped me out!

Honestly, I think this might solve your problem, keep us updated! Good luck!

 
Just as an update on this unfortunately the a frame balljoint being replaced still hasn't sorted the issue so at the moment it's been put on the back burner till I can figure out what else it could be
 
I too have a death wobble but at very strange timing. I got my front tires replaced and balanced due to a snapped tire wire.

I kept the tire that had a snapped wire on for about 6 months. Very hard to find defender tires where I am based.

However, sorted out my steering wheel wobble.

Before I would get the wobble at over 80km/hr.

Now I can push 110km/hr but with firm grip. Over bumps forget it, I am in the ditch.

I checked my shocks; the rear top bushing is loose most likely from that front right tire continuously wobbling.

Can a failed shock bushing cause the wobble?

Any tips on how to approach this

Did a full overhaul on all four hubs, bearings, brakes etc. 2 years ago. I really don't want to pull these hubs for swivel pins if that's the case.
 
You need a way of 'unweighting' the front axle.
2 axle stands or best a 4 post ramp and a jacking beam.

You can then (with someone to help) give everything a good shake and see whats loose.
 
Did a full overhaul on all four hubs, bearings, brakes etc. 2 years ago. I really don't want to pull these hubs for swivel pins if that's the case.
Does this mean you have not yet checked/done the swivel pin pre load since this thread was started?
Swivel pin pre load job does not need the hub removed unless pin or bush is worn.
Jack and support axle.
Remove wheel and disconnect track rod [and steering rod for nearside.]
Have a feel of the swivel housing for any movement other than the normal turning action.
If housing can be turned with little effort then preload needs setting. Use a spring scale.
If you leave the big seal in place and another 4 to 6lb foot to the normal 12lbf. That is the pull you should have on steering arm before housing moves.
To swap out shims you have to remove the top pin, have a jack just holding hub up as you do this to prevent housing drop and oil loss. Remove a thin shim and replace pin with bolts tight. Jack down and test.
If wrong try again until right.
 
Does this mean you have not yet checked/done the swivel pin pre load since this thread was started?
Swivel pin pre load job does not need the hub removed unless pin or bush is worn.
Jack and support axle.
Remove wheel and disconnect track rod [and steering rod for nearside.]
Have a feel of the swivel housing for any movement other than the normal turning action.
If housing can be turned with little effort then preload needs setting. Use a spring scale.
If you leave the big seal in place and another 4 to 6lb foot to the normal 12lbf. That is the pull you should have on steering arm before housing moves.
To swap out shims you have to remove the top pin, have a jack just holding hub up as you do this to prevent housing drop and oil loss. Remove a thin shim and replace pin with bolts tight. Jack down and test.
If wrong try again until right.
Wasn't me that asked, I still haven't gotten to the bottom of my issue
 
Wasn't me that asked, I still haven't gotten to the bottom of my issue

Have you done what @tottot said in post #75 ?

 
Have you done what @tottot said in post #75 ?

Checked the preload twice now and its not made any difference.
 
Checked the preload twice now and its not made any difference.
Just a thought. Is it worth making the preload too heavy and try it for a short drive ? I’m not sure it could, but just in case the load is becoming lighter when it’s back on its wheels for some reason. If no difference you can just set them back to the correct load and put your thinking cap back on. If you feel like running it up my way, we can jack it up and one of us can lie under it while the other bounces some stuff up and down 😳
 

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