Datatek
Well-Known Member
Unlikely.
Unlikely.
no, everything is dead on the switch pack.
it must be the fuse - the first one is also responsible for the switch pack.....if I understand correctly...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
No power at the switch pack, so have you checked from pin 1 to some metal part of the car to check if it's a bad earth? If that shows no power, take a wire from pin 1 of the switch pack connector to the battery positive, with the ignition in position 2 see if the switches work.
If they do, it's either a problem with the fuse connections or a broken wire to or from the fuse.
Nanocom also shows BECM inputs including the window switches. That together with the ability to activate outputs to test the windows & locks means you can nail down where the fault is.
Hello everyone,
I started locating the problem today. I noticed the following right at the beginning:
Ignition is on level 2
1. I get 12 volts at the fuse at the top and bottom
2. then I take the fuse out and I go directly to the "metal bracket - I mean these metal slots" - there I get 12 volts at the bottom (green point at the picture) but only 0.xxxx at the top (red point on the picture) -
sometimes 12 volts also appear on the display for a fraction of a millisecond....
That would also explain why taking out the fuse helped in the meantime - something seems to be defective at the upper connection...
how can it be that when I measure via the fuse there are 12 volts but without a fuse there are none? Isn't that a sure sign that the upper metal contact is defective?
...don't be surprised, i made the name unrecognisable on the device. i didn't know if it was allowed.
I started locating the problem today. I noticed the following right at the beginning:
Ignition is on level 2
1. I get 12 volts at the fuse at the top and bottom
2. then I take the fuse out and I go directly to the "metal bracket - I mean these metal slots" - there I get 12 volts at the bottom (green point at the picture) but only 0.xxxx at the top (red point on the picture) -
sometimes 12 volts also appear on the display for a fraction of a millisecond....
That would also explain why taking out the fuse helped in the meantime - something seems to be defective at the upper connection...
how can it be that when I measure via the fuse there are 12 volts but without a fuse there are none? Isn't that a sure sign that the upper metal contact is defective?
...don't be surprised, i made the name unrecognisable on the device. i didn't know if it was allowed.
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If you watch this video, it shows how the Nanocom can properly diagnose your issues. Windows & Mirrors demo is at 1:36 into the video. At 2:54 it shows the outputs menu which can test the BECM to door outputs.
If you were anywhere near me, I could check it for you, but as you live in Nowhere Land I cannot !!
If you were anywhere near me, I could check it for you, but as you live in Nowhere Land I cannot !!
No polint measuring with the plug disconnected.
If you look at the diagram in RAVE, and check either the BECM SID or Nanocom BECM documents, you will find the wire functions.
You cannot measure pins 2, 3 & 4 correctly with a multimeter, because they are data wires. You could try measuring them whilst holding each of the window buttons constantly, but I have no idea if the data repeats or not. You might see them change from 5V to 2-3v while holding a button.
For pins 5 & 6, why are you measuring ohms ??
Nanocom will tell you what signals are working for each button !!
Based on the switchpack connector end:
Pin-1 = 12V power
Pin-2 = Centre console serial data bus (data)
Pin-3 = Centre console serial data bus (direction)
Pin-4 = Centre console serial data bus (clock)
Pin-5 = Interior illumination (centre console switch pack, etc)
Pin-6 = Ground / 0V
If you look at the diagram in RAVE, and check either the BECM SID or Nanocom BECM documents, you will find the wire functions.
You cannot measure pins 2, 3 & 4 correctly with a multimeter, because they are data wires. You could try measuring them whilst holding each of the window buttons constantly, but I have no idea if the data repeats or not. You might see them change from 5V to 2-3v while holding a button.
For pins 5 & 6, why are you measuring ohms ??
Nanocom will tell you what signals are working for each button !!
Based on the switchpack connector end:
Pin-1 = 12V power
Pin-2 = Centre console serial data bus (data)
Pin-3 = Centre console serial data bus (direction)
Pin-4 = Centre console serial data bus (clock)
Pin-5 = Interior illumination (centre console switch pack, etc)
Pin-6 = Ground / 0V
...my hope was that the switch pack was not receiving any voltage - but pin 1 supplies 12 volts, so the switch pack has power.
I am completely at a loss.
Yes, I'm working on the nanoncom - but not until the end of august.
what really doesn't leave me in peace is that i got it to work again 3-4 times and each time i just pulled out the fuse (only the first one) - cleaned it a bit and put it back in and switch pack was working again...
I am completely at a loss.
Yes, I'm working on the nanoncom - but not until the end of august.
what really doesn't leave me in peace is that i got it to work again 3-4 times and each time i just pulled out the fuse (only the first one) - cleaned it a bit and put it back in and switch pack was working again...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
12 volts comes in at one end mof the fuse and goes to the switch pack at the other end so with the fuse removed, of course there is no voltage on the output end.
A DVM can be misleading, connect a 5 watt tail lamp bulb between pin 1 and pin 6 of the connector with it unplugged from the switch pack and see if it illuminates fully.
