A bluetooth OBD2 reader I bought off ebay for £7 a few years ago. It spits out a code/codes, you type them into google and find out what the code is telling you, and work from there.

Yeah, I want to do the technical stuff. Strata Florida and the Horseshoe aka Bastard lane were a lot of fun. I had no problem at all doing it in a bog standard D1, if anything it was overkill. Low range is definately something you need in order to avoid damaging the car though. An ordinary Subaru with a small lift and some chunky tyres on 15" wheels would probably be fine, but that wouldn't be as nice on the road as a D3.

I want a D3 - but not badly enough to re-live the ownership expence of my previous Disco. So, what I'm asking is, if I shop carefully, and buy a well maintained example with the fewest toys I can find, are the odds in my favour of dodging the massive repair bill that seems customary for most owners?
What you are basically asking is, "Do you have a reliable crystal ball that can tell me the future with any D3?"
The answer is "no".
 
A bluetooth OBD2 reader I bought off ebay for £7 a few years ago. It spits out a code/codes, you type them into google and find out what the code is telling you, and work from there.

Yeah, I want to do the technical stuff. Strata Florida and the Horseshoe aka Bastard lane were a lot of fun. I had no problem at all doing it in a bog standard D1, if anything it was overkill. Low range is definately something you need in order to avoid damaging the car though. An ordinary Subaru with a small lift and some chunky tyres on 15" wheels would probably be fine, but that wouldn't be as nice on the road as a D3.

I want a D3 - but not badly enough to re-live the ownership expence of my previous Disco. So, what I'm asking is, if I shop carefully, and buy a well maintained example with the fewest toys I can find, are the odds in my favour of dodging the massive repair bill that seems customary for most owners?
In general your question has been answered but go ahead and prove us all wrong.
£7 code reader probably won't cut it in proper diagnosis.
Just buy one if you want one and let us know how it goes.
How much is the insurance for you?
 
In general your question has been answered but go ahead and prove us all wrong.
£7 code reader probably won't cut it in proper diagnosis.
Just buy one if you want one and let us know how it goes.
How much is the insurance for you?
I seem to remember it goes on Dad's insurance but i may be wrong. ;)
 
I seem to remember it goes on Dad's insurance but i may be wrong. ;)
Pretty sure it's illegal (or against the rules) to pretend the main driver is the lowest risk.
When my son passed his test not one insurance company would allow me to be the main driver on his Ninety. It had to be insured in his name and me as a named driver. An insurance policy is more involved than just having the piece of paper, especially if you have to make a claim or claim against you.
 
The D3 started from 27k when it was first launched, my Legacy was 27.5k when new, both launched in 2004. A grand in maintinance would be a very bad year, that would have to involve a center diff (which normally lasts about 150k miles) and 4 tyres, most years its about £100-200, oil, filter, maybe some brake pads or a windscreen wiper becuase its 20 years old. An ebay wheelbearing cost me £35 and I fit it myself in a couple of hours, with hand tools.

A D2 doesn't float my boat, that's leaning a bit too far towards an offroader for everyday use. A Hilux is a sensible choice, again a bit too crap for daily duties, and expensive compared to alternative japanese pickups.

Compared to what alternative pickups? L200 in your price range is junk, isuzu of that age you’d likely hate.

A Land Rover of any guise is expensive to maintain and it sucks you in to doing upgrades, tweaks and niggles. They are big 4x4s with lots of tech, not a jap saloon/estate. I assume you have a ukdm legacy or similar? My scoob costs what you’ve said in running costs for a brake disc.

If you want a reliable workhorse for under 10, go hilux. If you want luxury, then expect to pay a premium to upkeep it.
 
There seem to be ample for less than £2000, now obviously expecting one of those to be reliable is probably daft, but I'd bet that most of the £7000 ones are the same 2 grand cars being sold by dealers after a polish and some tyre shine.

What goes wrong to the tune of 5k? If I buy one that's already had a turbo done and doesn't have air suspension, has decent service history including the timing belt, and hasn't got a million miles on it.


1k in parts a year? That sounds really expensive, would it be easier to list the parts you havn't replaced?
£735 road tax and 25mpg is roughly what I'm currently paying, although my Subaru is a very early 06 plate, so it's "only" £435, and if I buy a D3 I'll do my best to get a lower tax band one.
Top of my head torque converter recon 1.4k, a few sets of tyres 2k at least, they like to eat tyres, 6x injectors 1.2k due to unstable idle, quite a common fault, just last month mot fuel tank skid plate 250 quid, battery 120 quid, this is its 4th battery, front and rear greenstuff brake pads over 100 quid, manifold seals 12 quid, a/c pump 350 quid plus a 110 for a regas, adds up real quick.
The d3 really needs front and rear air bags and shocks, of course it aint getting them!
All the costs are parts only as I do all my own spannering, on the plus side now they are ****ters the parts prices have fallen drastically.
This particular car was 47k new (Metropolis) basically a HSE with every extra, it still has 47k car running costs if not higher as it is now an old machine.
I am a bit sad and have kept a book on every car I have ever owned and can tell you every penny spent on them.
Rust is getting to be a real issue on the d3s and early d4s, sills being the main culprit.

Do I like the car? yes.
Would I recommend anyone to buy one? no!

Handling on a d3 is roley poley at best, but if you are not afraid they can really hustle.
Power wise they do not have enough.
Brake are not the best even with greenstuff pads and v8 discs/carriers fitted.

Generic obd code readeer wont cut the mustard on d3/4/rr, you need something that can read all systems, Icarsoft are pretty good.

I would not be concerned with the toys higher spec models have as not one single thing has gone wrong in that department, well that is a lie as the cd player jammed the other week, ejecting the cd resumed normal operation!
I would say a higher spec model might have been better looked after rather then the budget models.
 
Pretty sure it's illegal (or against the rules) to pretend the main driver is the lowest risk.
When my son passed his test not one insurance company would allow me to be the main driver on his Ninety. It had to be insured in his name and me as a named driver. An insurance policy is more involved than just having the piece of paper, especially if you have to make a claim or claim against you.
It may well be but the point I am making is that I think this is what he said before. Maybe he has it in his name.
 
All of the above, couldn't afford one if couldn't do maintenance myself, but still a strain on my wallet, as for money pit you should be fine I have them all here
 
What you are basically asking is, "Do you have a reliable crystal ball that can tell me the future with any D3?"
The answer is "no".
Yeah, okay, let me ask a slightly different question - how much more reliable is a base model TDV6 S with coil springs and no toys compared to a HSE with air suspension and all the bells and whistles? And just to define terms, by "reliable" I mean both "unlikely to break down an leave me stranded" and "likely to pass future MoTs without failure due to warning lights"

Just buy one if you want one and let us know how it goes.
Based on my current opinion of the likely outcome, I'm not strongly persuaded...
How much is the insurance for you?
I havn't tried a quote in a long time, I'll have to get quite a few because insurance is very wierd sometimes, it might be the case that an S is half the price of an SE, but the only way to know is to try.
I seem to remember it goes on Dad's insurance but i may be wrong
Supprisingly, its always been more expensive that way. Infact, I saved about 10% by taking my dad off my policy, despite him having a completely clean record etc.
Compared to what alternative pickups? L200 in your price range is junk, isuzu of that age you’d likely hate.
Any L200 you get for Hilux money is going to be either in significantly better condition or a much newer car, or both. L200s also have much shorter wheelbases, and are lighter. Without looking it up, Id reckon that the 2.5L L200 is quicker than the 2.5L Hilux. As for Isuzus, Id probably be looking at the one that was badged here as the "Rodeo" - and Id only bother with the 3.0L. The Ford Ranger is also good value at that age, reasonably strong engine, although I' lead to believe that the rest of the truck is crap. Really the main rivals to the D3 are the 3.2L Shogun and the Land Cruiser Prado, neither of which are particularly appealing in comparison, but a Land Cruiser that moves under its own power is better than a scrapyards of Discos that don't.
I assume you have a ukdm legacy or similar? My scoob costs what you’ve said in running costs for a brake disc.
Yes, but the 3.0R Spec.b - its very nearly as quick as an STI, and its quicker than a standard WRX. Its also 7 times cheaper to insure than an STI, and although the brakes aren't Brembos, the discs are still 316mm (Nearly as big as STI Brembos, quite a bit bigger than WRX 4-pots).
If you want a reliable workhorse for under 10, go hilux. If you want luxury, then expect to pay a premium to upkeep it.
Im not looking to spend 10k, Im looking to spend 2-5k, it seems that the best bet is to buy the cheapest one I can find, and budget for several big repair bills. I also don't need a workhorse, I just want a car I can drive normally everyday, and then take greenlaning on the weekends.

I do all my own spannering
How easy is it to work on? Do you have your own 2 post lift and a garage full of obscure tools, or do you do it on your driveway with hand tools?
Would I recommend anyone to buy one? no!
What would you suggest as an alternative?
Handling on a d3 is roley poley at best, but if you are not afraid they can really hustle.
Yes, given the size of the thing, the handling is quite good. Compared to an older solid axle Landy, it drives like a car.

Maybe he has it in his name
I insure all my cars in my name and always have done, with mods declared. Im 22 with a 260hp Subaru, thatll crack the 0-60 sprint in less than 6 seconds, and I wouldn't be supprised if I'm paying less than most people on this forum (excluding the classics obviously). Im paying £500 a year fully comp.
A £7 generic reader likely only reads basic engine codes... And petrol ones at that
I bought it years ago when I bought my first Subaru, it told me I had a fault with the AVCS solenoid (AVCS being like VANOS on a BMW or VTEC on a Honda) but of course it being a Subaru and not a BMW, it was really really difficult to fix. I had to open the bonnet, unplug the old solenoid, undo a single 10mm bolt, put the new solenoid in, put the bolt back in, plug it in, and shut the bonnet.
All of the above, couldn't afford one if couldn't do maintenance myself, but still a strain on my wallet, as for money pit you should be fine I have them all here
Again, the same question to you, do you have a big workshop with a hoist, or are you doing everything on your driveway with hand tools?

Thanks all!
 
Yeah, okay, let me ask a slightly different question - how much more reliable is a base model TDV6 S with coil springs and no toys compared to a HSE with air suspension and all the bells and whistles? And just to define terms, by "reliable" I mean both "unlikely to break down an leave me stranded" and "likely to pass future MoTs without failure due to warning lights"


Based on my current opinion of the likely outcome, I'm not strongly persuaded...

I havn't tried a quote in a long time, I'll have to get quite a few because insurance is very wierd sometimes, it might be the case that an S is half the price of an SE, but the only way to know is to try.

Supprisingly, its always been more expensive that way. Infact, I saved about 10% by taking my dad off my policy, despite him having a completely clean record etc.

Any L200 you get for Hilux money is going to be either in significantly better condition or a much newer car, or both. L200s also have much shorter wheelbases, and are lighter. Without looking it up, Id reckon that the 2.5L L200 is quicker than the 2.5L Hilux. As for Isuzus, Id probably be looking at the one that was badged here as the "Rodeo" - and Id only bother with the 3.0L. The Ford Ranger is also good value at that age, reasonably strong engine, although I' lead to believe that the rest of the truck is crap. Really the main rivals to the D3 are the 3.2L Shogun and the Land Cruiser Prado, neither of which are particularly appealing in comparison, but a Land Cruiser that moves under its own power is better than a scrapyards of Discos that don't.

Yes, but the 3.0R Spec.b - its very nearly as quick as an STI, and its quicker than a standard WRX. Its also 7 times cheaper to insure than an STI, and although the brakes aren't Brembos, the discs are still 316mm (Nearly as big as STI Brembos, quite a bit bigger than WRX 4-pots).

Im not looking to spend 10k, Im looking to spend 2-5k, it seems that the best bet is to buy the cheapest one I can find, and budget for several big repair bills. I also don't need a workhorse, I just want a car I can drive normally everyday, and then take greenlaning on the weekends.


How easy is it to work on? Do you have your own 2 post lift and a garage full of obscure tools, or do you do it on your driveway with hand tools?

What would you suggest as an alternative?

Yes, given the size of the thing, the handling is quite good. Compared to an older solid axle Landy, it drives like a car.


I insure all my cars in my name and always have done, with mods declared. Im 22 with a 260hp Subaru, thatll crack the 0-60 sprint in less than 6 seconds, and I wouldn't be supprised if I'm paying less than most people on this forum (excluding the classics obviously). Im paying £500 a year fully comp.

I bought it years ago when I bought my first Subaru, it told me I had a fault with the AVCS solenoid (AVCS being like VANOS on a BMW or VTEC on a Honda) but of course it being a Subaru and not a BMW, it was really really difficult to fix. I had to open the bonnet, unplug the old solenoid, undo a single 10mm bolt, put the new solenoid in, put the bolt back in, plug it in, and shut the bonnet.

Again, the same question to you, do you have a big workshop with a hoist, or are you doing everything on your driveway with hand tools?

Thanks all!
Driving a 2.7 V6 has been likened to driving a car with a hand grenade in the boot with the pin pulled.
Your choice.
 
Driving a 2.7 V6 has been likened to driving a car with a hand grenade in the boot with the pin pulled.
Your choice.
I thought that the infamous "grenade" engine was the ZD30 in the Nissan Patrol?
I'd take a 2.7 TDV6 over Subarus boxes diesel any day.
By now, I'm not too worried about the engine, almost all the bad ones will have gone by now. I'm far more worried about a warning light turning an MoT into a 4-figure repair bill chasing some dodgy sensor, or the turbo going, and it being a body-off job to repair, which obviously I can't do. The air suspension system was excellent on the one we had, but again, if it goes wrong, you'd rather have coil springs.
From what I've gathered, I see no reason (crankshaft aside) as to why the TDV6 is any less reliable than any other modern diesel engine, its just that getting to some parts of it are insanely difficult.
 
Yeah, okay, let me ask a slightly different question - how much more reliable is a base model TDV6 S with coil springs and no toys compared to a HSE with air suspension and all the bells and whistles? And just to define terms, by "reliable" I mean both "unlikely to break down an leave me stranded" and "likely to pass future MoTs without failure due to warning lights"


Based on my current opinion of the likely outcome, I'm not strongly persuaded...

I havn't tried a quote in a long time, I'll have to get quite a few because insurance is very wierd sometimes, it might be the case that an S is half the price of an SE, but the only way to know is to try.

Supprisingly, its always been more expensive that way. Infact, I saved about 10% by taking my dad off my policy, despite him having a completely clean record etc.

Any L200 you get for Hilux money is going to be either in significantly better condition or a much newer car, or both. L200s also have much shorter wheelbases, and are lighter. Without looking it up, Id reckon that the 2.5L L200 is quicker than the 2.5L Hilux. As for Isuzus, Id probably be looking at the one that was badged here as the "Rodeo" - and Id only bother with the 3.0L. The Ford Ranger is also good value at that age, reasonably strong engine, although I' lead to believe that the rest of the truck is crap. Really the main rivals to the D3 are the 3.2L Shogun and the Land Cruiser Prado, neither of which are particularly appealing in comparison, but a Land Cruiser that moves under its own power is better than a scrapyards of Discos that don't.

Yes, but the 3.0R Spec.b - its very nearly as quick as an STI, and its quicker than a standard WRX. Its also 7 times cheaper to insure than an STI, and although the brakes aren't Brembos, the discs are still 316mm (Nearly as big as STI Brembos, quite a bit bigger than WRX 4-pots).

Im not looking to spend 10k, Im looking to spend 2-5k, it seems that the best bet is to buy the cheapest one I can find, and budget for several big repair bills. I also don't need a workhorse, I just want a car I can drive normally everyday, and then take greenlaning on the weekends.


How easy is it to work on? Do you have your own 2 post lift and a garage full of obscure tools, or do you do it on your driveway with hand tools?

What would you suggest as an alternative?

Yes, given the size of the thing, the handling is quite good. Compared to an older solid axle Landy, it drives like a car.


I insure all my cars in my name and always have done, with mods declared. Im 22 with a 260hp Subaru, thatll crack the 0-60 sprint in less than 6 seconds, and I wouldn't be supprised if I'm paying less than most people on this forum (excluding the classics obviously). Im paying £500 a year fully comp.

I bought it years ago when I bought my first Subaru, it told me I had a fault with the AVCS solenoid (AVCS being like VANOS on a BMW or VTEC on a Honda) but of course it being a Subaru and not a BMW, it was really really difficult to fix. I had to open the bonnet, unplug the old solenoid, undo a single 10mm bolt, put the new solenoid in, put the bolt back in, plug it in, and shut the bonnet.

Again, the same question to you, do you have a big workshop with a hoist, or are you doing everything on your driveway with hand tools?

Thanks all!
For the first 8 years all repairs done on the drive
Now have access to a pit, which makes it easier, but still could be done on the driveway
Susp failts, replace dessicant in compressor a few years back, currently front bags drop overnight and after 50/80 miles susp light pings up as car knows compressor is running a tad to much due to leaky air bags, key off and on and fine for rest of the day.
As for alternatives I dont think there is another car that can do what the d3/4 can do load lugging and comfort ease of driving etc.
Excellent a/c mine has front and rear a/c which is great for the dog.
I really like the car which is why I have kept it so long.
 
Yeah, okay, let me ask a slightly different question - how much more reliable is a base model TDV6 S with coil springs and no toys compared to a HSE with air suspension and all the bells and whistles? And just to define terms, by "reliable" I mean both "unlikely to break down an leave me stranded" and "likely to pass future MoTs without failure due to warning lights"


Based on my current opinion of the likely outcome, I'm not strongly persuaded...

I havn't tried a quote in a long time, I'll have to get quite a few because insurance is very wierd sometimes, it might be the case that an S is half the price of an SE, but the only way to know is to try.

Supprisingly, its always been more expensive that way. Infact, I saved about 10% by taking my dad off my policy, despite him having a completely clean record etc.

Any L200 you get for Hilux money is going to be either in significantly better condition or a much newer car, or both. L200s also have much shorter wheelbases, and are lighter. Without looking it up, Id reckon that the 2.5L L200 is quicker than the 2.5L Hilux. As for Isuzus, Id probably be looking at the one that was badged here as the "Rodeo" - and Id only bother with the 3.0L. The Ford Ranger is also good value at that age, reasonably strong engine, although I' lead to believe that the rest of the truck is crap. Really the main rivals to the D3 are the 3.2L Shogun and the Land Cruiser Prado, neither of which are particularly appealing in comparison, but a Land Cruiser that moves under its own power is better than a scrapyards of Discos that don't.

Yes, but the 3.0R Spec.b - its very nearly as quick as an STI, and its quicker than a standard WRX. Its also 7 times cheaper to insure than an STI, and although the brakes aren't Brembos, the discs are still 316mm (Nearly as big as STI Brembos, quite a bit bigger than WRX 4-pots).

Im not looking to spend 10k, Im looking to spend 2-5k, it seems that the best bet is to buy the cheapest one I can find, and budget for several big repair bills. I also don't need a workhorse, I just want a car I can drive normally everyday, and then take greenlaning on the weekends.


How easy is it to work on? Do you have your own 2 post lift and a garage full of obscure tools, or do you do it on your driveway with hand tools?

What would you suggest as an alternative?

Yes, given the size of the thing, the handling is quite good. Compared to an older solid axle Landy, it drives like a car.


I insure all my cars in my name and always have done, with mods declared. Im 22 with a 260hp Subaru, thatll crack the 0-60 sprint in less than 6 seconds, and I wouldn't be supprised if I'm paying less than most people on this forum (excluding the classics obviously). Im paying £500 a year fully comp.

I bought it years ago when I bought my first Subaru, it told me I had a fault with the AVCS solenoid (AVCS being like VANOS on a BMW or VTEC on a Honda) but of course it being a Subaru and not a BMW, it was really really difficult to fix. I had to open the bonnet, unplug the old solenoid, undo a single 10mm bolt, put the new solenoid in, put the bolt back in, plug it in, and shut the bonnet.

Again, the same question to you, do you have a big workshop with a hoist, or are you doing everything on your driveway with hand tools?

Thanks all!

I wouldn’t go near any pick-up at that price mate but your right on the ranger - my farmer mate runs too that get absolutely battered and can’t be worth much and he doesn’t actually seem to have many problems other than rust.
The spec b don’t come near the twinscroll - believe me! Nice car though and if it’s good I’d 💯 hold on to it. Great all rounder.
A prado would be a good buy no? Shame hilux surfs are so thin on the ground now. That would fit what your saying perfectly!
I still think a D2 would do the job and if you enjoy tinkering you could make all the interior nice with leather etc but you are on a land rover forum 😂
 
So you want to spend £2-5k on a D3, use it as a daily, take it green-laning, but not spend lots on maintenance and repairs?
Good luck!

You might get lucky. You need to find one that has been loved but is still cheap(?), so as @lynall says, I’d be looking for a top spec one that has a ton of paperwork… hopefully owned all of its life by a vicar and kept in a barn overnight. Likely a private sale too.

Aside from air suspension, why are you adverse to HSE etc? They all have the capability of giving you a hefty repair bill. You’re not going to get stung by seat warmers and leather. It’s the stuff under the bonnet, in the drivetrain and chassis that counts.

And you will defo need a good diagnostic tool. LR specific.
 
Pretty sure you will have to buy a base model if you want coil springs anyway.
It's all a pointless conversation unless you can get reasonable insurance anyway.
Get a real qoute, go and see some in your price range and go from there.
 
I don't see why you'd buy one with springs when you can buy one with air. Sure air springs need replacing, but so do metal springs. It's generally quite reliable unless you ignore leaks, dash warnings etc
 
Of course it's not always the case, but often the bargain basement model was bought for a reason and likely not looked after/maintained to the same level as the top of the range model
 
As for alternatives I dont think there is another car that can do what the d3/4 can do load lugging and comfort ease of driving etc.
Yeah - what makes it such an impressive machine is that in can be compared to a Land Cruiser in terms of offroading, towing, and general utilitarianism, whilst also being compared to a BMW X5, Audi Q7, RRS, Toureg and so on as a road car. If I didn't want to take it offroad, an X5/Q7 would probably be better, but if I didn't want to take it offroad, why on earth would I buy an SUV?
The spec b don’t come near the twinscroll - believe me!
Its a marginal gap, mine has raptor headers etc, so its not far behind on power, and it was less than half the price of a 6 speed twinscroll. Also the Twinscroll can't tow because they are all JDM imports, whereas my spec.b can legally tow 2000kg. Twinscrolls also need the expensive premiun fuel, whereas my spec.b is happy on 95. For the price difference between my spec.b and a 6 speed twinscroll, I could buy the supercharger kit for mine and it would be good for 400hp. The twinscroll is an awesome car, but for me it just didnt make sense.
A prado would be a good buy no?
That is the main contender, although it costs about twice as much to buy, isnt as nice to drive on the road, is slower, and can't tow as much. Toyota parts are also supprisingly expensive.
I still think a D2 would do the job and if you enjoy tinkering
I don't particularly enjoy tinkering most of the time, but it's an important skill to have and its saved me thousands of pounds over the years.
Aside from air suspension, why are you adverse to HSE etc?
I'm not familiar with the specific differences between the trim levels, but if a higher trim has something like cruise control or hill descent contol or parking sensors or whatever, and that thing breaks and creates a warning light on the dashboard, its a potentially very expensive issue that has to be fixed for the MoT. If I've got that wrong, and all the stuff can break without being a problem for the MoT, then sure, no problem.
Pretty sure you will have to buy a base model if you want coil springs anyway.
Yes, and a 5 seater - which is likely to be much cheaper to insure.
I don't see why you'd buy one with springs when you can buy one with air. Sure air springs need replacing, but so do metal springs.
I've seen quite a few that have been converted to coil springs, presumably when the air system fails.
Of course it's not always the case, but often the bargain basement model was bought for a reason and likely not looked after/maintained to the same level as the top of the range model
I'd imagine that anyone who had £27000 to spend on a new car 20 years ago could afford to get it serviced...

Out of interest, how much more capable is an air suspension equiped one than a standard one? How about one that's been converted to coils with a modest lift (which most of the converted ones seem to be)
 

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