pwood999

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Saturday at 12:16

• #1

Need some guidance from the Diesel experts out there. A local guy & his son stopped by today to see if I could figure out his problem. He's had the P38 since 2002 & it generally seems well looked after.

My Nanocom doesn't yet have EDC license so could not read it. I have ordered the EDC license, but BBS haven't processed it yet.

Symptoms are takes long time to fire up both cold & warmed up. Seems to run ok once it starts. Battery does seem knackered. It's an Exide 110AH from Halfrauds. 12.2V when off & 13.8V when running, but quickly drops back to 12.2 after engine off. Voltage when cranking drops to 10.6V so def needs replacing.

Did a couple of videos. Any ideas while I'm waiting for my EDC license ??

Air bubbles in fule line ?? Doesn't look right to me.


Slow starting

 

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

Full Member

• Saturday at 12:30

• #2

That starter speed is good, I'd look under thé car near thé fuel tank, if it's damp looking it's leaking diesel from the top pipes on the fuel pump, also bridge the fuel pump relay and listen into the fuel tank. No noise, no pump. check around the fip head and body for leaks as well.
At that age it may need seals and I tank pump doing if it's never been done
Part of the "normal things to do at that age" list.

 

pwood999

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Saturday at 13:17

• #3

Apparently the tank pump was replaced, but they were vague about how long ago. It has all the engine covers in place so could not see the FIP properly. TBH I'm not that familiar with this diesel lump !!

 

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

Full Member

• Saturday at 15:48

• #4

Check around the tank anyway, if it's wet it could be the source of the air in the li es

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Saturday at 16:02

• #5

The pipes rust just as they come out the intank pump and leak or let air in. There should be no air in the clear pipe going to the fip. 3 bolts hold the cover on over the rocker cover then it can be slid out to look at the fip and leak offs easier. Any wetness around the leak offs will also let the fuel drain back and give air bubbles in the clear line. Leak offs are cheap to renew, get gates brand 3.2mm inside diameter.
Hopefully, although I won't do it, someone has cut the boot floor to access the intank pump so a check there is easier. Damp tank sides is the first sign of rusty pump connections.

 

Datatek

Well-Known Member

• Saturday at 16:25

• #6

Leak off pipes are a possibility. Needs a Mobiletron regulator if it's only charging at 13,8 volts and that will be why the battery is not too good. First place I tend to look is the modulation. Also check for sufficient fuel flow at the filter.

 

pwood999

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Saturday at 16:51

• #7

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Next step will be diagnostics when I get my EDC license & check the stuff above as well.

 

brianp38dse

Well-Known Member

• Saturday at 18:06

• #8

As Data said leak off pipes will let air in and make it spin over awhile till it starts , had that a few times on mine.

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

• Sunday at 08:55

• #9

Datatek said:

Leak off pipes are a possibility. Needs a Mobiletron regulator if it's only charging at 13,8 volts and that will be why the battery is not too good. First place I tend to look is the modulation. Also check for sufficient fuel flow at the filter.

Click to expand...

+1.

Leak off pipes and then take the fuel filter off and check in-tank pump is delivering enough fuel.

Check the glow plugs as well. Beru are best in my opinion.

After that check the static timing on the fuel injection pump using a dial guage in the first instance.

Is the pipe from the fuel filter to the underside of the inlet manifold in place and sound? Probably won't affect starting but might affect power when driving.