got the same issue, wondering how you got along, the the NAK sealfix the issue? i think its either the seals or the swivel hub alignment is wrong. problem is the tool to align it costs around 1000eur and my local land rover specialist doesnt have it :(
I did wonder about the alignment. But had no way to check. Could you post a link or image of the alignment tool?
 
I did wonder about the alignment. But had no way to check. Could you post a link or image of the alignment tool?
We tried to make one as shown by some person on YT, but found it to be too much hassle and you can simply get a rough measurement of the alignment with a caliper, one measurement on the upper and one on the lower side of the axle. Identical measurements and it's likely that it's okay.
 
We tried to make one as shown by some person on YT, but found it to be too much hassle and you can simply get a rough measurement of the alignment with a caliper, one measurement on the upper and one on the lower side of the axle. Identical measurements and it's likely that it's okay.
In my case the Nak seals solved the issue. They are much tighter fit so prepare to fight them to get in place
 
Our Nak seal was a fight to push into the axle tube but sealed well to the driveshaft as it hasn't leaked.
 
Pretty sure I read somewhere on here that the bearing is the same and the sensor is better quality.
Think it was the person from Twinwoods 4x4 ?
This is correct. Previously a Wabco ABS sensor was the difference. Now it is just "another" sensor which looks very similar.
 
This is correct. Previously a Wabco ABS sensor was the difference. Now it is just "another" sensor which looks very similar.
bearing is usually different, G one has Rubber ending while the cheap sh*t has metal shield which allows dirt in a lot more easily
 
This is correct. Previously a Wabco ABS sensor was the difference. Now it is just "another" sensor which looks very similar.
So, the chances are the OEM or G (which is just made up nonsense unless it is in a Land Rover box) is no different than the cheaper version 🤔
 
Great, so in reality unless it's in an actual branded box (Delphi for example)then the item is just a cheapy regardless of whatever random letter it has at the end?
In most cases, OEM means nothing these days if the brand is not clearely mentioned, it's just a marketing scam, the only reliabe suffix is LR for the genuines and those parts are coming in the LR box
 
Great, so in reality unless it's in an actual branded box (Delphi for example)then the item is just a cheapy regardless of whatever random letter it has at the end?
I don't know about other OEM products but the hubs all come in white boxes with a label on. There will only ever be one OEM, but OEM is referenced on middle range parts between cheap and genuine. For example, Timken would be the OEM manufacturer for the hubs, but they have not made the hubs for many years and have no interest in making any more. They should really say "OEM quality" or something.
 
I don't know about other OEM products but the hubs all come in white boxes with a label on. There will only ever be one OEM, but OEM is referenced on middle range parts between cheap and genuine. For example, Timken would be the OEM manufacturer for the hubs, but they have not made the hubs for many years and have no interest in making any more. They should really say "OEM quality" or something.
Or they could say "cheap for a reason".
It's all a bit annoying when trying to buy the better option.
For example I bought an OEM drop arm the other week, before buying I emailed the places selling them. Only one place hinted it was Adwest but wasn't allowed to out right say that it was. The others just said Britpart or Allmakes.
 

Similar threads