sierrafery
Well-Known Member
See RAVE- Electrical library - Connector views and check the following earth points in this order C0551, C0017, C0018
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
We can agree that we disagree but if you'll study deep the system you'll realise that what you say is illogical and has no technical explanation, you might have done something coincidentally then, even if you touched other connector or fuse that was the cure not the receiver... @brian47 has well explained in post #16 that the receiver can work or not.... PERIOD
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
ROY SIMPSON
Active Member
If it is the bcu at fault, it doesn't log it internal faults so diagnostic tools cannot tell you it is at fault.
It is only when you have tested everything else, or you start to get other random faults related to bcu controlled systems eg hazard warning lights turning on for no apparent reason or failures in the security system that you may conclude that the bcu is faulty.
In my case all intermittent faults, it started with failure of an internal switch supplying power to xyz switch, then hazard lights turning on randomly and finally problems with the security system.
Replaced bcu with new one programmed and synced to system with nanocom with help from Rick at Callrova and all problems solved.
It is only when you have tested everything else, or you start to get other random faults related to bcu controlled systems eg hazard warning lights turning on for no apparent reason or failures in the security system that you may conclude that the bcu is faulty.
In my case all intermittent faults, it started with failure of an internal switch supplying power to xyz switch, then hazard lights turning on randomly and finally problems with the security system.
Replaced bcu with new one programmed and synced to system with nanocom with help from Rick at Callrova and all problems solved.
Small update;
I removed the roof lining to get a look at the reciever and it doesn't seem to show any signs of water ingress but I've ordered a replacement just incase as they aren't too expensive. I checked all of the earthing points @sierrafery mentioned "C0551, C0017, C0018" they all appear fine no sign of water ingress or signs of wear.
The issue has changed slightly the indicators now work but the other items such as interlocking doors, intermittent wiper mode and rear wipers don't work BUT I can hear a click when they attempt to run sounds like a relay click.
Some experience though if I turn the wipers on full mode then the locks and rear wiper work as expected.
I guess the only thing outstanding is the BCU?
I removed the roof lining to get a look at the reciever and it doesn't seem to show any signs of water ingress but I've ordered a replacement just incase as they aren't too expensive. I checked all of the earthing points @sierrafery mentioned "C0551, C0017, C0018" they all appear fine no sign of water ingress or signs of wear.
The issue has changed slightly the indicators now work but the other items such as interlocking doors, intermittent wiper mode and rear wipers don't work BUT I can hear a click when they attempt to run sounds like a relay click.
Some experience though if I turn the wipers on full mode then the locks and rear wiper work as expected.
I guess the only thing outstanding is the BCU?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
At this poit better rule out the interior fusebox first cos it doesnt need programming just disconnect the battery before the swap then after reconnectio turn ignitio on II and let it so 5 minutes
I know I've been inactive on this post unfortunately things came up over the summer but I thought I'd give an update as it might help people in the future.
I've now changed the interior fuse box twice..
New Tayna battery.
I've also recently sent off my BCU to be checked by CallRova.com who are unable to find anything a miss.
I've checked all of the interior earthing points and they appear to be ok? No sign of corrosion or rust.
Swapped out the engine fuse box just to rule it out.
At this point I'm at a slight loss but If I manage to get the issue solved I'll be sure to leave an update. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears!
I've now changed the interior fuse box twice..
New Tayna battery.
I've also recently sent off my BCU to be checked by CallRova.com who are unable to find anything a miss.
I've checked all of the interior earthing points and they appear to be ok? No sign of corrosion or rust.
Swapped out the engine fuse box just to rule it out.
At this point I'm at a slight loss but If I manage to get the issue solved I'll be sure to leave an update. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Unfortunatey if all those things are ruled out it might be a bad contact on the serial data link between the BCU and IDM and that's through pins 18-19-20(grey/pink wires) of header C0292 which is wrapped into that harness above the pedals, see the connector views
chticarail
New Member
Hello CM0n, have you find a solution ? I have the same symptoms...
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
And did you rule out the IDM and BCU both without success like the OP?... if not do those first as it was already explained in this thread
chticarail
New Member
Hello Sierrafery, thank you for your reply. I replaced the IDM, but the problem still persists. I ordered a BCU, which will arrive in two weeks, but in the meantime, I want to explore other avenues. Since I touched and cleaned the IDM and BCU, the turn signals and central locking have been working intermittently, as if there were a loose connection. That's why this thread interests me.
Especially since my battery is draining, with a current leak of 300 mA even after waiting 15 minutes. When I remove fuse F11 under the hood, the current drops back to a healthy level, 50 mA.
So I have a few questions:
- Could the immobilizer be causing the current leak?
- Or is this current leak causing all these faults?
- Or are these two separate problems?
Especially since my battery is draining, with a current leak of 300 mA even after waiting 15 minutes. When I remove fuse F11 under the hood, the current drops back to a healthy level, 50 mA.
So I have a few questions:
- Could the immobilizer be causing the current leak?
- Or is this current leak causing all these faults?
- Or are these two separate problems?
chticarail
New Member
Hello, after replacing the BCU and synchronizing with the nanocom, the main problem is solved. Great! Thanks for the advice.
However, I still have this amp drain.
I have 300 mA, with the engine off, as soon as I open a door. It disappears after 30 minutes. This drain comes from the SLABS (powered via F11). Opening a door wakes up the SLABS and causes it to consume power.
Do you also have these values? And for how long?
I don't know if this is normal, but this consumption is significant when I'm camping, for example, when I leave the door open overnight.
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I didnt measure the SLABS wake up drain but that's normal to be higher untill it goes to sleep but it should go to sleep after 30 minutes(or max 90) even if you leave the door open... Do you have air suspension?
chticarail
New Member
Regarding the SLABS consumption, I was able to see that it was indeed this box that was drawing power by using a current clamp on the C0504 wires. The current arrives through pin 1, but I don't have any consumption on the other wires, so it's indeed the box itself drawing this current. But why, even after 30 minutes, does it restart every time the door is opened?
I removed air suspension. I replaced it with springs. I removed the compressor and disabled the SLS option on the nanocom.
Is there anything else I need to do?
Maybe I can remove Fuse Link 9 in the engine compartment.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
That's how it was conceived for SLS operation and maybe those who engineered it didnt think to make it as to be disabled once the vehicle is set to coils or the SLABS didnt save the coil setting only the BCU so double check the setting in SLABS to be coils cos if in the BCU the IP is for non-SLS the warnings will not work but this setting doesnt afect the SLABS and it keeps waking it up for the SLS
Doing that would bring on the 3 amigos IMO and won't help with the draw.
If no joy pass that wire with the drain through a N/O relay powered by ignition
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chticarail
New Member
I have correctly configured the coil in the bcu and SLABS with the nanocom. However, after analysis on the nanocom, I still have voltage values (valve, sensor etc.) is this normal? and the plip signal is on "raise" which means that the BCU is currently sending a request to lift the vehicle. (Screenschot attached) So I don't know if all this is normal...
I'm going to do that, but I'm still wondering where the information that triggers the SLABS to turn on comes from. And this happens every time I open a door (even after 30 minutes).
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
It's explained in the WSM at the SLS description but something is odd anyway with your system.... i'll make some checks on mine tomorrow to compare (mine has SLS but i'll set it to coils for test cos now i became curious)... i'll let you know the results cos at this point i suspect that your SLABS ECU has some issues
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
OK, nanocom has some oddities in this area as it shows some values for the valves on mine too while it's set to coils but the plip signal appears as "neutral" while i double checked with hawkeye and it shows all correct values on SLS but no values aka "not fitted" for all SLS components when it's set to coils... i used hawkeye to set and unset it cos i don't use nanocom for SLS as i knew it's not 100% reliable, it used to give false fault codes too
I'd try to replace the SLABS ECU with a known good one if i was you cos that "Plip - Raise" thing on your's is definitely not OK but i'm still not sure that the ECU would disable the timer if it's set to coils cos i didnt have more time today to check how the drain behaves when it' set to coils... or cut the wire which you found the drain on and route it through a N/O relay's contact which closes on ignition
aamof, here's the SLS behaviour
I'd try to replace the SLABS ECU with a known good one if i was you cos that "Plip - Raise" thing on your's is definitely not OK but i'm still not sure that the ECU would disable the timer if it's set to coils cos i didnt have more time today to check how the drain behaves when it' set to coils... or cut the wire which you found the drain on and route it through a N/O relay's contact which closes on ignition
aamof, here's the SLS behaviour
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