From a completely unscientific, uneducated, uniformed, but ocd point of view, that looks like it should go on the off side to me. It would appear back to front on the near side I reckon.
Well aren't the slopes there for water displacement as well as heat dissipation?
I would in that case follow the way car and motorcycle tyre tread considering they rotate in the same direction.
So to the rear of the car would make sense to me...
Battery tested. It's duff. Just gone to get a new one and tried to fit it. That's not gone so well. I have the old favourite of the clamp bolt not coming out due to the captive nut spinning. Chuffing thing :rolleyes:
Indeed both me and the car are abs-less :mad:
I'll be with it this weekend, along with checking the front caliper guide pins too so will check this and report back :)
I haven't checked them no, but they've been replaced with stainless steel ones from pioneer so I should imagine they are fine.
The hand brake had been a little weird, it seems very... tight, when I drive with it off sometimes going over bumps...
Following up with this again.
I bled the master again, which admittingly made it a little better, but still when the engine is off (Brake booster now works) the pedals goes hard but is incredibly spongy! I cannot work it out!!! I have replaced...
Anyone got any thoughts on this?
I didn't remove the master cylinder to a point where brake fluid comes out, but maybe with the moving it around I need to bleed the master again?
Welp.
I replaced the brake booster and it's worse... Now the first 7/8th of the pedal has no resistance and it won't build pressure, I tried to adjust what looks like an adjuster screw in the brake booster but it has not worked, when the engine...
Looks about right to me. It's more important that the O2s switch between high and low regularly, rather than the exact value reached each switching cycle.
So didn't get a chance to look at the water pump, however, Managed to plug in my Pscan to log the current O2 sensor.
As explained to me by @pscan.eu the O2 sensor should fluctuate between 0.2V and 0.9V Where 0.44V is a missing / wiring fault...
Here are the facts. I have tracks all expenses I have made on this car (excluding Fuel, Insurance and Road Tax) on just repairs and making it ready for green-laning. feel free to guess how much but It just below anyway.
I replaced / repaired...
Hopefully you have the coolant leak sorted but if still loosing a little, they also commonly loose coolant at the water pump so look out for leaks there.
Honestly, same goal over here, more for green-laning than "off roading" the freelander would not handle it, but if you're up to the task chuck in the same engine, you could probably get an early pre-2001 engine for cheaper, I've got a guide on...
The diesel struggles off road without low range to get up steep hills so the petrol will be worse.
For green laning or off road racing racing they are good but not so much for extreme off roading.
Just a quick update on this one, I don't think (fingers crossed) it is still losing coolant, however, I think in the time it was, it has inadvertently fried the O2 Sensor? Would that be possible with enough Coolant going through the exhaust? (On...
Dual seat SS lines seem great and are not leaking at all, haven't tested how they feel but we will see, closing this out as solved
Fittings on a non ABS model are M10x1.0 on ALL fixings
That's the intake filter, it's there to keep debris out of the vacuum system. If the hissing continues while the brake pedal is pressed, then the diaphragm in the booster has split.