Cam follower? The big roller, or the slider? A bore camera down the push rod hole might be helpful.

Not standard fitment in the UK! Interesting. Thanks for sharing.

Probably not, unless there's something odd in the cam follower or push rod area.

Thanks for the updates....

Swiss? Or late emissions control engine. Most have a simple breather to atmosphere. Got any photos, curious!

Which engine is this for?

It did seem to be in time with the valves opening

I counted about 15 knocks in 5 seconds that’s 180 per minute Assume tickover speed about 720rpm, so cam speed is 360rpm Does it sound noiser with ear to air intake After rebuilding my 200di I had a regular clonk like that , turned out I stuffed a...

I'm going to go with a dead big end just on one piston

Rubber grommets on one of the bolts, allows for vibration mitigation.

Under neath. Suggest you invest in a high quality cavity wax and apply to the gap between the tank and the cradle, and apply liberally to all surfaces. I use Bilt hambler dynax S50. Other brands exist. NOT waxoyl. Buy a new fixing kit as well...

It's hard to tell from a video. Get a stick/rod mechanics stethoscope to isolate the knock. Sounds cam shaft speed, not crank shaft speed.

If it's in neutral, then can't be gearbox? Check valves first. I'd look at the dizzy, then the cam gear. Couldn't see from the video, is there oil coming through the rocker shaft?

Probably need a new tank. They are rust traps. But first. Don't trust anything about the restoration. Remove the seat. Remove the lid on the seat box. Take a good look around the tank. Especially when the bash plate cradles the inner tank at...

I kept the series link rods. Well I welded two together. Just visible here, re routed to avoid a repositioned air filter.

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sounds okay.

Hi Uytter, I am currently on holiday (with the Landy) and the digital diagrams are on my laptop at home. I can send them on Tuesday earliest. Attached is a copy of the paper ones I always carry in the car. I also had electrical issues in the...

The new chassis option is good, but an old chassis that's been blasted, repaired and galved is fine.

Get the chassis shot blasted. Any structural rust will be exposed. The rest doesn't matter, and the pre dip pickling will take care of it.

Totally. Current house was chosen exactly for that. Too old to be minding tools on the side of the road.

This is, for me, at any rate, the peculiar joy of a series. No matter how bad it is, no matter what the previous ten owners did, it can be fixed by me. And, if I do it right, the repair will last for longer than the life of most modern cars.

Thanks for that. Even as a non starting pain in the backside she suddenly looks like Sigourney Weaver towards the end of Alien II. Battery taken back without a whimper and replacement checked in the shop at 12.8. We will see what tomorrow brings.

Time for a Toyota Yaris

Best? Electro rust removal. Cheapest? Knotted brush on an angle grinder.

Right! Good progress. Get those diagrams, well make life easier. Remove all the fuses again. Put one and only oneback. And see what happens. See what works. Now you know what that fuse does so take a note. Keep going until you get the spark...

And don't tighten body panels, bulkhead and side frames until everything is lined up and packed/shimmed. Don't ask me why I know 😭

Chassis. Axles. Brake lines. Lower steering. Engine. Gearbox Radiator Bulkhead. Body. Upper steering. Pedals Loom Heater Wings.

Are there engine rebuild businesses there? Perhaps for farm vehicles or commercial vehicles? Time to invest in the future.

The two litre diesel had them holes and they are tell tale holes for the liner seals, not sure if the 2.25 are the same?