Cheers! Took it out round the block and drives well. Although I've detected a new grating noise when turning the wheel. I'm I never done with this car?

It's within spec I think 750/850rpm? You can lower it with Nanocom. I run mine at 800rpm to avoid the low rev vibration. There is a string of parameters that show on Faultmate, I think the same on Nanocom, the first box is likely to be showing...

Can you breakdown the steps on the nanocom to do this, cheers? I'm not clued up on the nanocom.

You can do this with the Nanocom. You need to note down the current setting and like I did reduce the specified number until your happy with the tick over. Mine doesn't like the specified tick over recommended and vibrates like a goodun 🫣 I'm...

That's how is timed mine, one tap and err... OK that'll do pig👌😝

Datatek will hate me as well. I didn't remove the viscous fan... 🤭 Rev counter Still sitting at 850rpm though. I'm guessing I'll need to move the actuator block a smidge towards the dash? Is that correct?

Ya dancer! Mind you this wasn't purely luck. I had to turn the pump as far as it would go!

I just drilled and fitted small m4 nuts and bolts. 👍

No I mean the engine radiator.

Mine blew rads every two years and had done since 2004 when it was reprogrammed to 170bhp. Went through two rads in 4yrs, one an nrf and one a Nissens. The latter one of which nearly went off in my face... I bought a direnza unit only to find out...

Do the alloy ones fit well with the securing clips they look smooth on the metal ones unlike the grooved plastic tabs at the top.

Manual box has built in transmission cooler. Suppose that could made difference to what I payed. Nissens I had, was few quid but quality, that got destroyed so put a BP in second time around, cheap and cheerful but lasted years with no issues...

As there are on one of mine.

Something along these lines without really searching for the best deal etc...

Yes

There are connections at the bottom of my rad, they just aren't used.

Mine has those bottom connectors but they're blanked off.

No connections at the bottom on the diesel. Look for a Nissens radiator if you want reliable.

For the transmission oil, yes?

Diesels ahould have a seperate rad under left hand side front bumper

Do you have a link?

Connections aren't used at the bottom for a diesel. When mine goes I'm going to fit one of them there all alloy ones, direnza iirc?

How much did you get yours for?

Found a RAD for £118. Is there any connections at the bottom on a diesel? https://ebay.us/m/W800gF

Personally, I would replace the RAD, they are prone to cracking as they age, not worth risking a cracked head for the price of a RAD IMO.

I second that.

You can show what ever you like young man.

I've ordered some JB weld. Will this sort it? Will it affect the seal around it?

Don't take the risk with any cracks on the rad, especially if it's under pressure... Ask me how I know😞

Datatek, I was going to do a video on timing the FIP. Is it okay for me to show your method of timing if I credit you?