now metalurgy is something I know as an horologist, to anneal you need to heat it as you say but let it air cool slowly to soften it. If you dump it in water you will harden. ty for the advice guys. cracked two of the offending and found no 5...

Right I'd say she's way off at 86.57% modulation at 94.40⁰c. So from this can we extrapolate which direction the pump should be rotated?

Deffo do the nano thing. You may find a reluctant hot start and a lumpy idle if modulation is out, and idle is returned to c750 rpm.

👍 👍 👍 :banana:

Thanks guys. As it happens I went ahead without the nanocom & loosened the mid 4 FIP bolts and tapped the actuator forwards with a hammer & it's running sweet as a nut now (aren't hammers just the best thing ever 😄 🤣 😂). I'll get some readings...

To read modulation the engine has to be running at max temp. You're looking for 50% for perfection but a bit either side of that doesn't make any real differance.

Not got a diseasel, but go into EDC / Inputs / 2nd screen. Look for Modulation ??

Thanks lads. Right I've got my brothers Nanocom but I've never used one before. I belive it's set up already but I've no idea which menu selections I need to use. Could someone guide me through, cheers? Yes I put grooves on the back of the mid...

as for the bolt in the side of the pump it ist here to be used when there is a mechanical governor when the VE pump is used on other aplications

That's an easy mistake a good few of us have made🤣

If modulation is good I’m starting to think mid section. Hopefully the ball is in the cup properly

Only on one side? Might be worth twisting ever so slightly while engine is running and someone is ready to kill it.

It's been rebuilt. I put three grooves into to aid alignment. After rebuild.

I wouldn't touch the top of that pump unless it has been off. Just the act if retightening can affect the idle. It is very sensitive. You'll need a volunteer in the car ready to kill the engine if you tap it too far and it starts revving its nuts...

Cheers, I remembered that!

However you adjust the pump angle, the final movement of adjustment must be toward the engine.

yes, sorry. 900rpm not 90. My brother has the nanocom. I'll see if I can get a reading when he comes round.

No good guessing, what modulation figure do you have with the engine hot? I assume that you mean 900 rpm not 90?

Right, got her running but she's very lumpy & idling at around 90rpm. So does that mean I need to slightly loosen the second row of bolts on the FIP and knock it forwards a touch. Guess the pump needs to be rotated anticlockwise a touch too. I'm...

Right it's back in. It felt okay - no resistance. Here's a before picture of the woodruff key before I removed it: And here's after: Does that look okay to you? Just checking... Nearly forgot to put the brass nut on at 50NM before pulling...

It could be a setting up port for the factory 🤔

I wouldn't have thought so the system self bleeds with the in tank pump running.

Put nail varnish on em...😜

Could the bolt be a bleed nut?

Bet the engineers didn't know either. Just thought it looks nice. Rustic...

No idea for the other bits kiddo🤔

Right. I just went ahead & did it; 90NM for the threaded inspection bung, 25NM for the inspection bolt & 45NM for the delivery value holders. All went well. FYI: I didn't torque it up like this. I had the steel end nipped up in the vice not the...

Cheers! I think these are the correct RAVE torque settings for the FIP but I can't see the correct torque for the larger threaded bung.

I'd have to check RAVE next time I have the laptop running but it is less than you think. 90 nm sounds way too much. 25 nm sounds more likely. The high pressure pipes just need nipping up so they don't leak. Finger tips tight using a 17 mm...

How do! Three weeks later & not much done. Been waiting on a workbench to attach a vice properly which took the best part of two weeks while I also accidentally ordered just one metal advance gasket which meant waiting another week. I've got...