Clonks while moving off/slowing down are usually related to axle play both front and rear in places like the various rods and links and bush's that attach them to chassis. A classic is the A frame joint on top of the rear diff but this would not...

I don't have the special tool either and have just carefully tapped around the seal to seat it' I do second @miktdish above re the seal, those brown ones fit easy enough but do not last in this situation and many have started to leak in a few...

Well at least others may benefit from your info.

Thanks yes. Agree, ill have a go tomorrow afternoon and see.if i can drive a tappered drift through to raise the paul, if i can do that ill make a tubular tapered tool with a split in to feed through in front if the cable shaft to get it back...

Be careful not to contaminate running surface if you add sealer [ original seal had a sealer already on the outside] Locating seal in housing can be done by careful tapping around the seal if seal fitting tool not available. One chap on here...

Voltage readings are not the be all and end all of how well an wire delivers power, if it can not supply sufficient amps things will not work. This goes for any other connection such as the spade connection on the starter. Poor connection, no...

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html They are pin numbers.

Plus one on the above regards Original seal. Not sure about the one in post above as see no guide. OEM seal that comes with a plastic guide to get it in place correctly, also OEM gasket for housing that has pre applied sealer on it. Fitting...

Well……I found the rattle. It was a strange noise, more like two pieces of sheet metal contacting each other rather than a heavy clatter. Anyway….the rattle came from the n/s front. By sheer luck I noticed that the shock absorber had no threads...

If the bolt holes in the brackets for the panhard have worn over size that will also needs sorting or you are wasting your time just renewing bolts an bushes, had to sort the axle one on mine, rusted thin, worn oval.

Thanks yes. Agree, ill have a go tomorrow afternoon and see.if i can drive a tappered drift through to raise the paul, if i can do that ill make a tubular tapered tool with a split in to feed through in front if the cable shaft to get it back...

There is a mechanical lock that prevents the pull going back in until the key is turned to the on position. Perhaps because it came out to far [ location screw lost perhaps] the lock pawl is now in the way for the pull shaft to go back in. I...

I've just had the whole thing out and it seems the hook had rotated somehow and so could pop out, I've turned it through 180 and it seems to fit snugly ...I've also squeezed the sides of the handle in the vice so hopefully it'll hold against it a...

thanks appreciated

The cross bolt of the link plate may need tightening. Hook on link rod may need a tweek so it holds better. Side plates of lever may need a little squeeze to prevent rod hook escape. Button only rotates if hook has come out or its threads to rod...

Key has to be in the on position for pull to go all the way in. [ or may just go in with screws removed ] one or tother.

ALLO ALLO, I will say this one more time. You are trying like many before you to get an old at least 40 years gauge along with its equally old wiring and regulator to be accurate. If it does happen it will be just pot luck and will not last as...

Getting door card off while shut is nigh impossible with out serious damage to it. Neither inner or outer handle will release I guess? Try holding up the lock button while working handle's. I button does not want to come up release it again...

Thanks left it as it is for now in last pic. think I better take the bloody thing back off just to be safe.

What Marjon means is with the rockers fitted and no cambelt, if/when you rotate the engine to line up the timing marks any open valves could make contact with the pistons. So safest to remove rocker gear then fit belt etc. This why when engine...

Cooling fan on alternator loose another check.

D box reverse idler got a bearing instead of a bush. Tidy idiot guide to the LT76 on LRUK forum. [ not saying you are an idiot, just what it is called.]

Which bushes did you use in the end? Yes brute force is the answer, on the upside along as you greased all the bolts it will come apart easy enough next time.

All sorted. Replaced the a frame bushes, bolts, and the rear fulcrum. I have come to learn that heat, angle grinders, and more force than you think are required. All good fun!

Aren’t the two heavier brown cables connected at alternator and on same terminal on solenoid.

Some of their kit is excellent. The CVs that the coil sprung lot use are the best in the market. There's a few other examples out there. Most of their stuff is meh. And there's far too much crap as well. Infuriating, to be honest as a tiny bit...

Britpart. Covering the full spectrum of quality parts. From rubbish to excellent.

Intermittent is how mine was for a while so I had the under bonnet lash up and then the jumper until I sorted it. Some other relay behind the main group would click when testing mine [1990 19j] No glow plug relay on pre Defender model diesels...

Re my post above, when trying to sort my starting issue I made up a little jumper cable and plugged one end into the brown live feed [ at relay position] and touched the other end on the white/red to solenoid. Started every time. Connected small...

Send it back.