Yes, any mention of corrosion, especially if it's mentioned again in following years. Mine had corrosion mentioned and as the owner towed a caravan he had a new rear chassis welded in. It all depends on if any recommendations are actually sorted...

A right "cowboy" repair there [apology to real cowboys] Looks like a rod likely gave way, the sort of thing that happens when engine gets hydro locked.

You seem very keen on the LOF kit almost as if you have made up your mind already. The TRW kit is the one you need, it was designed far and works well with the car. It will also likely be better quality than the LOF

It does seem like a break up of the windings/insulation inside.

The numbers on the block are casting numbers.

Have made a rudimentary bush from a bit of diving stick, it’s hard polyurethane type material and fits very snugly over the ball. Will file it up neatly tomorrow and reassemble! Should do for a while and hopefully stop that bloody awful stick rattle

Black wire in the light fitting through the wing to the engine compartment, and earthed via a ring terminal and bolt to the radiator panel. I think. I've augmented mine.

Been a while since I had a Series 2 on the go. However the thing that caught my eye in your pic is the nut on the master rod. Two my eye it just looks bigger/thicker than an original one. A narrower one would allow the tad more free play you need...

No idea about LOF, have not used them. I have replaced mine with the standard servo/master. Noticeable improvement over the old.

Flush new fluid into your system as brake fluid is prone too deteriorate over time which could be the soft pedal condition you mentioned, & as above regards the brakes

Check that the little wire from ignition switch to the starter solenoid is not live all the time due to ignition switch or wire fault.

No too thick won't add resistance, just harder to bend and more expensive

I did find it terrible before I actually had a look at anything. I then found I had no thermostat fitted, replaced with a 78 degree one. I then found all the foam seals in the heater box had disintegrated, same with the dash air box, after...

I used Tigerseal

Original is some sort of nylon washer. A ring cut from a suitable size alkathene pipe warmed in hot water to soften enough to slip on could do the job and last some time.

It is my opinion that in recent years Britpart have upped their game, doing more testing on the parts that suppliers send and rejecting the poor stuff. There is also the issue of " Fake" stuff. Had some Brake cylinders from on line site that...

With regards to Paddocks make sure you find out the supplier/manufacturer first ..........if they will tell you. AFTERMARKET means anything could turn up. Actually they have worse than Britpart, believe it or not.

Your replacement is likely a series 2/early 2a one. If the bonnet has hinges held by 4 bolts this confirms. later bonnets have 3 hinge bolts.

Engine?

It may be your master is somewhat worn and possibly having an issue with some fluid bypassing the piston internally, this will result in a soft feel. [ there may also be some air let into system] As you are in there I recommend renewing both...

I can fix just about anything on an old Landy but when it comes to computers, laptops. I phones, Smart TV's it's well you know.:D:D:D:D Keeps my grown up kids busy sorting my cockups.

I suppose that is true enough about us old gits

Some of the jobs I missed off new rear prop , poly bushed rear trailing arms couple wheel bearing, new diesel tank , new battery box , timing belt , new water pump & p gasket, upgraded clutch spring

I found the housing here https://www.lrparts.net/219714-gear-lever-housing-for-land-rover-series-fits-1949-1984.html?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADmOzNeG3EVbOyPjpdhC4y_NbwQ6k&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlKa249PfjAMV6ohQBh10cDLeEAQYByABEgK6uvD_BwE Will do...

Yes clean it up and just a tad of grease in the selector cups. Stick is available new, housing may be hard to find. There is a series 3 stick and housing on the flea bay. S3 stick has one bend S2 stick has two.

I know from doing a similar job some years ago that it likely will be possible but will be a mix and match of parts and you better keep a note of what was done for later repairs. As above contact Mike at Brittanica.

Probably should contact Brittanica Restorations in Canada. He could help you out, especially with sourcing of parts. All the best :)

Find a pic of a new shaft and orientate journals as per pic. You will have a 50/50 chance of getting it right or be 180 degrees out. Frankly as most of the weight is in the main section it may well be good either way.

I’ve never worried about which way round the yokes get put back on. As long as you haven’t pulled the sliding halves apart they will still be phased correctly. Happy to be corrected! 😀

I take it you mean grind off the galvanised coating around the new weld area, prior to attaching? Yes it has a reduced size at the end.