Is anyone able to recommend an internal roll cage or roll bar for a 110 hard top that doesn't cost a fortune?

Never been able to find an actual figure with the seal and brake disc on, everyone I read is different. I even asked Britannica Restorations what figure he suggested for it and he said dunno as he's only ever done it on a video without the disc fitted. From what I've been able to figure out...

. Remove the front wheels, remove the track rod and drag links and using a set of luggage scales check how much it takes to pull the hub lock to lock. What that reading should be seems to be completely different for each motor but you're looking for somewhere between 3-4kg of pull. If it's less...

I wouldn't assume. Also they're really bloody awkward to get right, even Landy mechanics and experienced owners need to play about with it just to get them correct (Christ knows how they done them in the factory). But if I were you I'd double check what the preload currently is as if it's far...

Unless his UJs are absolutely gubbed I can't see them having so much slack that he's got an inch of play either way. Like yours mine is spot, a slight movement of the steering wheel when driving translates directly to the wheels. If he had the issue before he changed the steering box I can't see...

Have you correctly set the swivel preloads?

Did you paint the frame or fit a new one? Mine is rough, asked YRM if it's something they would consider doing and they said no not at the moment which seems a bit daft to me considering it always rusts to hell.

I bought quite a few rolls of this for doing my roof, sides, rear door etc... super cheap, super sticky and works really bloody well. The difference in noise before and after is noticeable and it's also made a huge difference in the insulation as well and I no longer have tons of condensation...

300 quid!? Jesus, all that for a piece of steel tube that rusts within a week

What's the spacers for? Take them off and refit the wheels and see if it makes any difference

Update on this. I've now replaced the radius arm bushes and panhard rod bushes with genuine pattern parts and while I think it does feel a bit smoother on the road I've still got the same issue, albeit I don't think as bad. Redid the swivel pin preload and tightened them up a little, same...

Just the bog standard ones, I don't tend to fit polybushes

No idea mate but never had any fail like this before, they've only been fitted about 6 months

I reckon I may have found a big part of the issue. Removed the panhard rod and the bushes are completely degraded after only a few months so those will be getting replaced as will the radius arm bushes just to be sure

What did you do to sort it? What symptoms did you have?