Nope, and no EGR. Checked pick up pipe last night and that's clear, I also looked inside that tank and it's immaculate inside too. What I did find however is that when I removed the fuel filter I got a ton of diesel chucked out at me which isn't...

Well that made absolutely no difference. Replaced the boost control pipe and the air filter for good measure, im just back a test drive and unfortunately it's still exactly the same. I can hear the turbo spooling up in lower gears and I've no...

RIP Ozzy.

Me anorl, legend, definitely.

Saddened to hear of the death of music legend Ozzy Osbourne

Happy new shoes btw

Suspect this may be my issue then. All other turbo hoses fine apart from this, the boost control pipe from injection pump to turbo has at least 1 pinhole worn through. Going to get a new one today and see if that sorts it

All I can really find out it is the approximate build date was January. Unfortunately the Series 3 was still being produced until 1985 (although I don't know if that was at Solihull) so I doubt you'll be able to use the serial number from the vin...

What's your VIN

I'll have a look around today and check all of them. I think it is a turbo/boost issue rather than a fuel one

+1 on the turbo hoses, can be a leak, it disconnected or sinply desintegrated. As she did have full power before loosing it again, maybe a leak or a loose hose. Had that on one of our other cars, also a turbo diesel engine.

As far as I'm led to believe it's positive pressure so this shouldn't be the case. Only other things I could think of relating to this were that the wastegate is seized from being parked up and not opening fully, or the pipe I fitted is...

Ill need to start having a look around all the hoses and pipes as I can't think of anything else it can be

Sometimes the pipe going from the turbo to the steel pipe leading towards the intercooler delaminates. The 90 degree one ... PNH1020 You can normally see it if it has, as a lump on the inside wall, you can't see it from the outside.

It's not actually that high, it's about 100nm. You probably do it tighter yourself with a breaker bar

This seems to be an intermittent problem although it's more often than not and it's driving me mental as it makes for a horrible drive. Around town driving and on generally flat roads it's mostly ok and has ok power in lower gears. When I go into...

The army tested the wheels after the issue of the shorter wheel studs was brought up and found it to have no adverse effect or risk but suggested the increase in torque as a precaution

Ill check mine again but I'm sure it doesn't. It's got three lugs on it but no notch in any of them

If you're against replacing anything original with new parts then owning a Land Rover isn't for you

Looking at that it is odd that your rear wheels are out of toe by the same amount but surely the front wheels can't then be aligned to 0 toe using the rear wheels as a guide

Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm. Turn wheel fully one direction and put a tape mark on the top of the wheel. Turn back in the other direction using the tape mark and counting turns to work out the full range of motion. Turn it back...

Are you sure you don't have this. It is just a cast slot on the back of the arm, the new ones for sale still have it (image below from an ebay ad for a new one). This allows you to put a correctly sized drill bit (do not ask me what size) into...

Thanks all. I managed to find this (see attached) which gives a good idea of somewhere to start and the correct drop arm position. It's kinda for their heavy duty conversion kit but is applicable to standard set ups. Unfortunately I don't have...

I'll also need to find out how I can correctly determine that the drop arm and steering box is in the dead centre straight ahead position. Steering wheel isn't anything to go by unfortunately

Here's mine from a while ago ... Any help ?

Does anyone know the correct settings for doing the tracking properly? Toe in or out settings and where the drop arm should be pointing. I know that with the wheels in the straight ahead position the drop arm should be slightly to the offside but...

Checked the swivel preload (again) and filled both front hubs up with nice new grease. Changed the a frame balljoint (what a **** of a job), tightened the rear right wheel bearing, replaced the UJs on the rear prop, tried to see why my rear diff...

Haw!

Check continuity on the horn connections coming from the switch. If you get an open circuit when you press it then the switch is buggered

Earth issues. I had this with my fuel and temp guages where they would fluctuate by themselves with the fuel guage occasionally dropping to zero despite plenty fuel in the tank. It was especially apparent with the side lights on. Not only did I...