My father in law used to build horseboxes and he swore by TigerSeal for all sorts. I used the Sika version when I resealed the sunroofs on my disco, and they’re not coming back out in a hurry that’s for sure !!

This resto is not going to fund itself...

Have used sikaflex. Hold the doors/windows onto the side of a horse lorry. Also used this for blanking off alpines/rear door/rear passenger doors with Ali. Yep it’s pricey but worth it. Can’t remember if it contains stuff that paint don’t...

I have a couple of similar repairs to undertake on my replacement station wagon tub. My plan was to use tigerseal (or sikaflex, i am not brand loyal!) to glue the repair plate in place along with some rivets. I am not trying to achieve a perfect...

At £20 I might just take one for the team...

It’s worth a punt at £20 surely. Try it on a test piece and then let me know how it works. That way it’ll save me wasting 20 quid 😁

That might be crap, never used it, 3M is probably good but the cost seems very prohibitive for the casual user.

That looks like its worth a go. A quick search around for Optima didnt find many results on t'interweb. So the nagging concern is how old is their stock and what's the shelf life? (Edit: data sheet says 2 year shelf life unopened container)...

3M will be the proper gear. I’m sure I asked YRM when I got the replacement part what they recommended and it was 3M, buts it’s stupid money just to use a very small amount of it. I’ve saved this seller and if it’s still on the go next time I...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376123348536 How about something like this which is a 2 pack but uses a normal cartridge gun?

There must be a tube of single pack adhesive you could use at a reasonable price.

Countersunk pop rivets?

One option. But the metal is often very thin and not much room for the countersink.

It's getting the galvanic reaction crud out fully that may be a problem ...

Good point. Its smaller, more localised areas where there is already a fold/stiffener I'm thinking about. Like these: The last one is a historical repair that needs redoing. The adhesive would not be used alone, but would cut down the number...

I think the fact the alloy sheet is flat is going to be your biggest enemy, ie it can wibble/wobble like a thunder sound board is going to make a glued joint fail.

Izzy is going to need some remedial repairs and patching and there is a strong desire to keep the number of rivets - particularly visible ones - down to what is necessary. So current thinking is modern 2 part expoxy adhesives, the stuff used...

I saw the dented bonnet stiffener...put 2 and 2 together and thought the top of the engine was an interefence fit without the dents. I will offer it all up and see - thanks for the advice. Knowing this is priceless.

Odd, as my Isuzu 2.8 sits fine without modding the bonnet. I fitted the top mount intercooler and it still missed the bonnet, though I cut a hole anyway for the bonnet scoop.

Looking at it...being in the last third of my life and wanting to enjoy myself...what made me think trying to recover this ferrous mess was a good use of my time? Sanity check over and thank you!

I would replace it.

Same here. Replacements are cheap And easy to come by. And you can always modify it with a large hammer again!

The bonnet stiffener on Izzy is rusted to the point daylight now appears through sections: The question: Is this really worth repairing? Or time for a replacement? The Isuzu 2.8 engine sits a little higher than what fits under the original...

The bonnet stiffener is rotten as a pear. With holes. The spare wheel carrier was unbolted and the bonnet hinge screws saw the slitting wheel release their grip. I dont know if there is an authorised way to remove the stiffner. The oak wedges...