There is a quite simple solution for that : bite the bullet and replace the latch assy

It works, it allows me to reassure myself about these electronic problems which have been driving me crazy for a long time! 🤯🤯 I wanted to understand the problem before using the relay solution on an ignition switch. But you are right, I will use...

👍 Ufff... i'm glad it was so simple otherwise it could have been a nightmare

Im very happy to say that she is running!!!! after all the money and time its turned out to be the black plug on the ecu hadnt been clipped in properly and on the last time i parked it up it mustve just wiggled out. when i went to test the cables...

Yes, the coils are constant lives one side, R9 through the inertia switch and pump relay through R9's contact and they are both supposed to get earth to the coil on the other pin from the ECU once the ignition is turned on so the ECU doesnt do...

On a second thought...as long as the pump doesnt start on ignition that's the path to be investigated, ... it means that the relay is missing the trigger signal, it must get positive feed from R9 and earth from the engine ECU so remove the pump...

Then it's definitely not the immobiliser at this point you really need a compatible diagnostic tool to avoid more inefficient troubleshooting without that all you can do is to lift the engine bay fusebox and check connections or swap it with...

OK, nanocom has some oddities in this area as it shows some values for the valves on mine too while it's set to coils but the plip signal appears as "neutral" while i double checked with hawkeye and it shows all correct values on SLS but no...

It's explained in the WSM at the SLS description but something is odd anyway with your system.... i'll make some checks on mine tomorrow to compare (mine has SLS but i'll set it to coils for test cos now i became curious)... i'll let you know the...

That's how it was conceived for SLS operation and maybe those who engineered it didnt think to make it as to be disabled once the vehicle is set to coils or the SLABS didnt save the coil setting only the BCU so double check the setting in SLABS...

Hi, if the problem is on the RH side you dont have to remove the bumper on the LH side it's more complicated due to the washer reservoir. but maybe if you remove that instead of the bumper is doable... i replaced the original front bumper very...

I didnt measure the SLABS wake up drain but that's normal to be higher untill it goes to sleep but it should go to sleep after 30 minutes(or max 90) even if you leave the door open... Do you have air suspension?

Maybe things got worst in time cos based on the actual MAP reading it's obvious that it instantly goes to overboost so the lack of power is normal for that default

So that's definitely a big problem, now unplug the MAP sensor and read that way, eventually drive test it with sensor unplugged.... as you replaced the sensor seems that it's a wiring issue on that path or the ECU has a fault

Explain that better, do you se 230kPa manifold pressure reading at idle ???

Explain that better, do you see 230kPa manifold pressure reading at idle???

Hi. If the job was done by real specialists who have the very expensive testing machine then your man is right you should have got new codes too but there are more rudimentary methods when they just simply clean them or change the...

+1, no MAP.... only 4 sensors: MAF, FT, ECT, TPS

No such things on a D2... maybe on a defender ... Not very relevant for this dead thread anyway

Don't be so sure cos on factory setting if you unlock it with the key instead of the fob it ends up immobilised

Just a small addition to a post I put on a day or two ago. If you have a fluid leak and are considering a compression fitting repair and are concerned about the condition of the pipe surface where the compression fitting may be attached. The...

Buy a block off a breaker, dismantle, get all 6 holes drilled with flats inside to handle 1/4" BSP. Swivel, 2m hose, 14mm banjo ,x 4 Pump short pipes 3/8 BSP to compression fittings on the cut off pump pipes.

In that case the system becomes "floppy" with clear technical reasons, i experienced it myself with loaded vehicle when i lost the fluid due to a massive pipe leak and at higher speed it can be tricky(to not say dangerous) while cornering hard...

Seems that THESE GUYS are charging £365 for the work so it might be a starting point

The bolt is to remove the old seals... tap in the new seals and bin that black plastic part but after you removed the old seals clean very well the holes cos the old o-rings used to get stuck in there or leave residues which can hurt the new ones...

Be aware that if you bought complete pipes untill the block you need new seals(RVW100010) and plastic collars(ANR6700) under the bracket, some sellers say they are for air suspension which is wrong, the old ones are not reusable

Hi. Maybe i'm the man but i used to respect my own decision written with red in my signature ;) Ok, i'll make an exception seing your pain... seems that you bypassed the fuel pump relay and the circuit to pump is OK, now bridge the main...

It goes to C0230 pin 16 corroborate with the pinout in the connector view i attached

You have to see if power gets to terminal with ignition on 30 then if it closes to 87 when the relay clicks... from 87 the power should get to the pump

Hi, I have no ideea what they mean by that ...all i can tell you is that the tacho signal on the D2 is white/grey wire going to C0230 pin 15 but that's a 2pulse/rev PWM signal i dont know if that "5v or 12V square wave signal" described by...