Erase those codes then read again after a drive cos nothing in the live data log seems wrong as to trigger such codes but if they come back the ECU defaults to a limited fuelling protocol and then it's normal to be powerless

I'm glad it was so easy ;) ... now start to make some economy and when you'll afford buy a second fob too cos that's the way to get rid of stress when it comes to a D2 immobiliser wise

Just an eBay special to see if it worked. France? I’m not entirely sure the range on these is THAT good!

It’s fixed!! It was an issue with the actual remote fob itself. I bought a new fob, coded in absolutely fine. Lesson learnt to not put off buying a second key fob. Thanks all for your help!

Yes they do

Dont do that but you can unplug the ambient air temp sensor under the grill then the aircon fan will permanently run and help cooling a bit, the aircon will work normally except the outside temp display

Running a slightly weaker mix of coolant will also help

With the PEL500110 mine ended up hotter on a long run than with the original i presume cos the bypass spring is soft only the 100900 made it run cooler a bit

It's a huge offer all over the place, google out PEM100990 but if you want a reliable one use LR suffix for it

Replace or clean the filter, the red light usually has to do with lack of hydraulic pressure for some reason though there should be a fault code anyway unless it's an `ECU misbehaviour

+1 for that ^^^ with the addendum that nanocom is not reliable with the fault code.... foxwell might do the job better and as long as there are no leaks and good fluid activity in the tank you can drive it with R14 removed without fear

You'll have to try with another fob cos it might send the RF signal but not the code and if that fails too the problem is the BCU, no way to know exctly which of them is making tricks without trying

OBD2 will not work, for complex BCU settings i dont know cheaper than nanocom eventually if you find a second hand hawkeye like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1058983729?iid=226913402823

Just get a cheap human friendly one for such aleatory and rudimentary work, i have one in the vehicle and does it's job, search for UNI-T 33D+

That would give much more trouble, the receivers are common failure even if it's dry cos condensation happens too

I presume you dont have a second fob then... if you tried to sync the fob to the slot with your fob's internal code not to other the probem is with the fob , can you see the red LED working on it when you unlock? even then it can be a problem...

You'll be able to unlock the doors with driver door disconnected but the immoiliser will still be active as it didnt get the unlock command from the fob, the only way to remobilise a locked vehicle on factory alarm setting is by unlocking with...

After all the confirmed tests and jobs done that's a possibility too or some other mechanical stuff like injector clearances not set well, or those who replaced the seals mixed up the injectors and the codes are not matching animore, from now...

According to that log the overboost limit was raised with the remap cos there are moments when MAP is around 250KPa and AAP around 98 which means that the boost is 152KPa(1.52 bar) while the factory overboost limit is at 1.42bar... based on that...

I'd not rely on a seller's advice when it comes to spare parts, there are other sites where the PRC7128 is direct cross interchange for PRC9409 or vice versa but there are pictures with 7128 without the attached connector loom while the 9409 has...

So what's the trouble with the PRC9409 which is similar with the one from you first pic cos i dont understand :vb-headbang:

Hi, the reality is revealed by the circuit diagrams and based on that the headlamps(high and dipped) get feed directly from the stalk through the fuses in the interior fusebox, no relay or other electronics involved, the BCU has to do only with...

+1 for that ^^^ , according to the data log it's not a management issue IMO, also if you clamp the hose to the wastegate valve and it doesnt go to overboost i'd guess that the injectors might be clogged a bit, get some high quality diesel...

The XYZ or starter inhbitor has nothing to do with your problem or with the fob's misbehaviour nor responding to the EKA code remobilisation, it's something else, probably BCU related but not subject of a guessing game without proper diagnoze...

In a very strange way it can be connected if the problem comes from the BCU which affects them all, you'll have to see the stored fault code in the autobox ECU but as long as it didnt affect anything the M +S can be a sign of weak battery too...

I've seen a few with blocked exhaust/catalyst but none of them got more than 350-400 kg/hr air flow while this one has arund 550 that's why the MAP/boost reading is more relevant

You keep insisting on the air flow reading but what's the MAP(or turbo boost) value at that air flow? better attach the inputs fuelling log somehow to see the whole thing cos you can't compare a manual's readings with an auto... do they both have...

I can't tell you more than i've already did at reply #6

Hi, you'll have to check with the second fob too and if it's the same the RF receiver is the first suspect which would cause the starting issue too cos it doesnt communicate with the passive remmobilisation exciter coil then that suplimentary...

Run a stall test on it