Seems that the pressure transducer is fubar

I'm not sure that the scanner you used is reliable but if it is i see that the fuel pump drive is off so you can't expect it to start that way, the pump should be on for about 3 minutes after the ignition was turned on then if the ECU doesnt get...

+1^^^ and a fuel pressure gauge connected to watch the pressure while cranking cos on defenders i've seen many cases when this kind of stubborn starting issue is fuel supply related hence no fault codes albeit a nanocom or haweye is compulsory...

IMO that spike in the readings is the moment when the symptom occurs and it can be caused by a weak contact somewhere(ECU plugs or other connector, oil acts as isolator in the red plug) otherwise nothing wrong with the TPS or other sensor...

Unfortunately that motor seems obsolete all over the place, i bought one as well about 2 years ago then sent the bad one to a rewinding service and they made it like new for half the price so i keep that for spare.

What scantool gave you that code? remove the ACE relay, bridge the contact's cavities in the fusebox with a wire, read all te live inputs at idle and post them here then i'll tell you more ... also make an output/circuit test for the PCV and DCVs...

here's from the WSM:

I meant the SET+ input in special(with CC on of course), if you see that one on command and nothing happens the only suspect i see is the ECU

I don't think that the TB ratio can affect that but if it was remapped that might have mixed up things coz as long as you see the inputs the problem is definitely with the ECU... if you go into the Info section what you see at Cruise control...

It was very common at a time, happened to me and to others too, see https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-front-driveshaft-seal.391253/#post-5673652

Hi, the short way to the answer is to read the stored fault code with a compatible scanner, the EML on a Td5 can be triggered only by two things: crank sensor or throttle sensor signals issues

Is that function working? i mean is it accelerating on that command?

You have to press the SET+ only not buttons ...did you read the WSM about how to operate the CC?

Can you accelerate from the remote?... also are your horns working?

That will never work well unless you are very skilled with electronics and work on the PCB to insert the clutch switch's input circuit which is missing in the auto EU also you have to remap it for manual, simply changing settings with nanocom is...

BTW my repairs worked out slightly cheaper than a delete kit EXCEPT I bought a brand new rear ARB because it was cheap, rude not to.

On such converted vehicles nothing is strange and hard to diagnose cos the diagrams dont match anymore and depends very much how big of a specialist was who worked on it. Was a manual ECU fitted after the mechanical conversion? Record "inputs...

With nanocom in engine ECU inputs:

Smith and Allan oils are good. This one would be better for a PD type engine. https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smith-allan-momentum-fs-5w-40-engine-oil-4485

No worries, the cooling is the same with that port clogged hence they didnt use it on newer modells and it's blanked from factory, you can rest your mind on this

Seems that the power transistor is gone, quite common, see https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/help-interior-fan-problem.153501/#post-1502260

So what is it an alarm/immobiliser issue or super locking issue, if the latter then you in trouble as non of the doors can be opened from outside or inside without using a functioning remote.

Hi, you have to use a nanocom or hawkeye to make sure tat te ECU is not the problem even though it must get above 250rpm input to start coded how? can your diag tool make the ECU learn the security code?

Go with nanocom In BCU - Settings - Alarm/others - 4'th page and make sure that Cruise control appears as "Enabled"

There are more electronic relays within it, i didnt open one to explore but as long as there is power on those pins the problem should be inside, that's in the user guide about those inputs: · BCU switch power: This is the supply voltage as...

Not easy, you'll have to remove the turbo first iirc, just buy branded gasket, i used THIS

it depends on the brand, Mahle or Mann have the o-ring attached and most aftermarkets too e.g https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-discovery-2-td5-engine-oil-rotor-filter/

Check if you have power in C0660 pins 1, 3 and 13 against pin 11(earth) with ignition on and if you get +12V in all of them replace the BCU, disconnect the battery first then after replacement and battery reconnection turn ignition on(dont try to...

This means that the electronic side is working cos the signal gets there... if the latch mechanism wasnt bran new but some scrapyard part send it back and ask for refund cos that's the problem...if the latch is new well speak again but not untill...

Hi, first of all the pics are not about a resistor but about the power transistor pack LR part number JGN100011, i know nothing about those 0700 manufacturer part numbers you mentioned but if the D2's connector fits into the part it should work...