You can't "bypass" the immobiliser all you can do is to disable it with nanocom or hawkeye once the vehicle is remobilised, while it's immobilised you can't do anything You have to rule out the receiver first cos if that's the problem a second...

AFAIK those modells are pretty the same as functionality when it comes to the D2, maybe some differencies with Jags or newer LRs even though they get updates so it's all about price IMO

Hi. Search around for Foxwell NT520/or 530/or 510 Elite for Land Rover which ever you find cheaper, it will do the job for ABS and decent coverage for other systems except the engine management where it's not very reliable but better technical...

That's in the "grey zone" in which case only measuring the real pressure at the FPR would be relevant

It's the other way around, too much fuel/lack of air = high EGT hence the superchargers are improving things, also if it's low boost for some management issue or other reason the EGT gets higher... the MAP sensor is quite suspect on your's at...

Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know that it was the crankshaft sensor!! Took a while to receive a genuine one and install but then the car is working perfectly fine!!! The only weird thing is that the radio has gone crazy. I dont know...

in this case i stand corrected... based on the handbook : seems that there are some specs which are doing that maybe those built for the UK market cos mine didnt do that not even when it was on the factory setting and now it's certainly not...

it's not supposed to so if it does something is wrong with the system

The alarm doesnt sound if you unlock the door with it's key just the immobiliser kicks in ... it would scream if you force open it or break a window if it's on factory setting

thanks, found the correct line, however i will have a go and replace the connector only... we ll see. For anyone needing the info, the ID is 6mm. I also found this: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-line-quick-connect-broken.391969/...

I agree with that^^^ for the OP: IMO a well made remap can improve the engine's functionality and reduce the stress on it despite of enhanced power or torque but even if no gain in this area i'm sure it won't hurt... i dont think that the remap...

But they aren't related. A stock engine stands just as much chance of failure, a remap will not alter the odds.

So???

A second key is useless while the vehicle is immobilised cos the BCU is locked for programming, you have to remobilise it first then a good used key can be programmed with nanocom by a friendly member close to you or you can hire one HERE ...or...

If you erase the codes do they all come back after a ride? The title is about suspension and only one code is related to that, possible causes attached:

No, it's not

Then you really need a diagnostics session cos it can be the MAP sensor at fault especially it's IAT side but this can be checked only with live data or eventually there is a fault code for it... though that's just a guess unless you want to...

You are right, I edited my first reply

As long as the fob doesnt work it becomes immobilised once opened with the key, replace the RF receiver cos it's the most common cause for such intermittent symptom especially if you have two fobs and it behaves the same with both

Hi, the SRS light can have multiple reasons you have to read the fault code instead of digging in blind, under the seats or dash the only relevant connectors for that light are yellow or red, that black plug is unused

I dont know that tool. If it's multivehicle type which lets you select the vehicle modell and covers the D2 and you can scan each particular ECU (in this case Td5 engine management/powertrain/what ever they call it) then you should try, if it can...

As your door latch seems to be fubar as well and you can't remobilise it with the EKA code all you can do is to replace the RF receiver and hope it's that otherwise you'll have to replace the door latch actuator to be able to insert the code or...

almost, it's for MAF, wastegate modulator and EGR(hopefully this was bypassed).... though the best would be to see some live data from a ride when the symptom occurs, that would be the really relevant thing

then most probably Eu3 confirmed if the airbox sensor has 4 wires

HI. Remove fuse F2 from engine bay and see how it runs that way and report... also is it Eu2 or Eu3 engine?

Check the bottom crank pulley for delaminating damper, they start clicking when failing.

And did you rule out the IDM and BCU both without success like the OP?... if not do those first as it was already explained in this thread

What happenned when you clicked on superlock off with nanocom outputs?

The BCU doesnt store fault codes , check the user guides https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads

As you have nanocom you should try with another known good unlocked BCU if the IDM was ruled out