but maybe disconnect the battery first

An hour tops, to cut and wire directly together. No more problems 👍 It would be handy to find out why it's disconnecting, maybe the wiring loom is in a bad position and it could happen again 🤔

argh!! noticed the rear wheel arches starting to bubble :(

dont put the seat all the way back :) thats much cheaper

Merci mon ami 👍

Yes, that's fine.

CPC have the best delivery charges and prices but can only find a Panasonic 220uf. Is this OK

Another snapped crank?

Ok thanks

Right part but sounds expensive, try Conrad, Farnell or CPC. It's not something I would buy on Ebay and I do not know that brand so may be Chinese rubbish.

All Got into the electrical fault finding and trying to suss out the bypass, but all now in vain as the engine went pop whilst driving on the motorway. On the lookout for a decent 2.7 and any articles on removing and refitting without taking...

Hi Keith is this the capacitor I need Suntan CE Electrolytic Capacitors 200uf 63V 105'C Axial 22x13mm 2 Pieces OL0110 found it on the bay priced at £7

Here Here 👍 👍

A mechanic offered me to switch my EAS to coils for a decent price. Honestly I didn't even consider his offer because yes, while the EAS has more systems to take care of than springs and it can cause all sorts of problems and even leave you...

The bearing can be pressed out of the hub with the right equipment like a 20 tonne press. Changing the whole hub is easier and if you are paying a mechanic probably not a lot more expensive given how much they charge per hour these days.

Well done a bit of running around today and guess what, yep no problems. Plus a lot warmer today. I did give the block a really good spraying of soapy water checking for leaks, maybe got some into the electrics and with a good run round and...

Low battery could certainly cause problems if for example the apparent low voltage is due to bad earths, battery terminal connections or the live feed to the EAS ECU.

Excellent!! 1 down, 24,393 to go :D

Thank you for your support. I changed it today - went great! Thank you!

After a bit more investigations it looks like the transfer case is the culprit rather than the auto box. I noticed Ashcroft have rebuilt kits and chains available. Did anyone here already attempt an overhaul of the Borg Warner transfer case...

How much!? I got mine off eBay for £15 each!! Ok not tinted, the heating element doesn't cover the whole area but they still work

If it can break it will break when I handle things and at £180 or so for the glass I really don't want to risk it. I overcompensate with force because the 'good' arm isn't so great and I can't judge what pressure I'm using.

As per everything on the L322, it's not that simple. Made less simple by only having one arm that functions almost properly.

That I understand 🤯

That would involve taking the glass out to get a smooth finish. Otherwise there will be an edge just inside the lip. also I'm a bit impatient, and OCD. Trying to get all the bubble out would just drive me nuts:vb-kaioken:

many thanks for the info

Hard to correlate. With the engine is running the EAS should see the charging voltage, unless there's some voltage drop between the fusebox & the EAS. Keith's capacitor mod should remove any spikes & glitches on the 12V supply. On mine...

Could short runs and this cold weather causing low battery affect it in any way

+1 the dash always beeps & displays the message when connecting EAS diagnostics. Same applies to Nanocom & EASunlock software. Always use either the "Stop" button in EASunlock, or exit the menus on Nanocom before disconnecting the cable.

Could also be intermittent connection in the pins & sockets inside the connector between driver pack & solenoids. The fix is to de-pin them one at a time & gently squeeze the sockets so they grip the pins properly. But do the capacitor mod...