Then it's not the complete version. My copy is 5199 pages, but the ISO version is much easier to navigate. There's a website here with all the PDF's from RAVE...

Electrical Troubleshooting section. Try searching the PDF for "Power Windows". Then skip to page 1590 or thereabouts.

It's the left one in this picture . . . . . but an Auto probably will not have the wiring for it.

As said in post #4 you really need to download RAVE. It's all in there. Hint 1 & 3

If you re-test the brake switch using a multimeter, you should see the 0-12V & 12V-0V switch on both contacts immediately. Nanocom takes a few seconds to register the state, hence why you might sometimes see open-open & closed-closed. Remember...

Another thought or two. Does the handbrake light work ? Maybe a bulb failure there causes the other two to light up ? Also have you re-checked wheel bearings, CV joint & the sensors are properly pushed in ?

Two more things to verify: 1) Do the mirrors move correctly or are they also not working ? 2) Does the car lock & unlock normally ? Either of both of these require power to the door outstations, so if they are working then you probably have 12V...

1) is the issue on all windows or only 1 or 2 ? 2) Probably not a good idea to "short circuit" anything. You can apply 12V directly to the motor, but unplug it first. 3) For the one-touch window closing, rather than the fob, try with the key...

For the connections from ABS to BECM, there are three wires in addition to the K-Line to the diagnostic connector. Looking in the Nanocom & BECM SID documents, these are what the signals are for. It is not clear in any of the documents if the...

Rather than the Utility menu, what are the Inputs doing ? Check them when stationary and up to 5mph & then >> 5mph.

icarsoft CR Max does not do P38 settings. Their "coverage" says it does most of the ECU's but I have tried it, and it has limited coverage. It also identified the AT box as diesel, but gets the engine correct as GEMS !! Nothin else...

Agreed. Maybe they could be weeping as they cool down. If the smoke stays away when warmed up, MOT should be ok, but gotta do the rear brake lines first.

Interesting thought. Perhaps I could take them out & attach an airline to see if there's any bubbles at the tips, which might indicate a weep. Saying that, none of the them showed any leakage on my jar test above & that was with the fuel...

A P38 that needs welding ?

Yes that video was after it cleared. Still need to repeat my 5 mile round-trip drive & see if the fuel economy has improved since the previous test. Car isn't insured at the moment, so need to do a 1-day insure to road test it.

This is the lid from my GEMS. Maybe EDC is different ?

Do NOT mess with the Nanocom Startup Settings menu. After power-on, for Wabco faults on your diseasel, select these options in order: R-ROVER-P38 / EDC / WABCO-D / FAULTS. Same applies to check INPUTS from sensors, etc. except...

Strange Update . . . . . so the car has been parked for 2-3 days with no work done. On startup the engine was lumpy & pushed out quite a bit of smoky, but after 5mins that cleared. We did this video while revving the engine. Tried again 2...

Fusebox lid doesn't show anything, but there are contacts on the PCB ? RAVE shows it as a "Spare Relay" with "not used" connections. They must go somewhere, maybe for a special option, or police models ?

Leak back after cleaning the injectors is here. I also tried each injector into a jar with high pressure line connected & no electrical connection. Definitely no leaks when injectors are not triggered & have idle fuel pressure into them...

Good idea. Hope you can find some to borrow.

Anyone not too far from Langley, Slough got a set of known good TD4 injectors I could borrow for a few days ? I want to do a quick swap to prove whether ours are causing the grey smoke, before splashing out on a replacement set. Happy to...

BECM & GEMS definitely have gearbox type setting. Can't find anything in Thor or EDC. BECM Settings: GEMS ECU:

+1 on Why ? A few guesses: - BECM (& possibly engine ECU) will require settings changed. - Modified wiring for Reverse & Neutral switches. - Bell housing & Clutch bits, plus clutch master ? - Replacement pedal assembly ? Again why ?

Drive Cycles are in RAVE. Definitely a challenge to do leagally without MOT or Insurance !

Aye, but a dodgy FOB and no door lock alternative is not something for a "to do" list, it's something that needs sorting before the car moves again or you could end up in deep shyte miles from home.

Keep a spare ballon handy . . . .at some point you will forget it's on & start the car !! Yes I've done that - bang.

Is that the Valeo influence on many P38 bits ?

Be very careful doing that. I broke one a while back doing it !!

If I remember correctly, NRV-1 is the one facing opposite the other two. The brass end is towards the tank, so the air pressure closes the NRV.