There's a few threads on here about the "chamfer & jubilee clip" method. I chamfered mine & used three jubilee clips to compress a little. My 10ton eBay press pushed them in with no trouble. Main recommendation is to have a second pair of...

I have a vacuum pump if you wanna try that first.

Yes tried that using a length of 4mm x 25mm bar, but injector not moving. I was gonna try loosening the clamp nuts a turn or so, and then fire it up to see if the engine ejected them. Told my son to squirt the injectors & pipe nuts with...

Same as mine.

That’s my plan but injector gonna need a puller. I have slide hammer injector puller but need to get the tops off first. Job for next weekend

Yes I figure injector 2 needs replacing or refurb. Started to get bits off to remove it, but got a problem with the fuel pipes. The nuts are siezed on the injector ports, so when I try to loosen the pipes the injector port turns as well. No...

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Next step will be diagnostics when I get my EDC license & check the stuff above as well.

Any leaks will cause issues because the system needs to be under pressure (about 10-15psi) to prevent the coolant boiling.

Leak off test results after 1min. I'm assuming the containers are 100ml, so number 2 is 85ml after 1min. The other three about 30-40ml ??

Just been setting up to do a leak-off test on my son's 2004 TD4 FL1. Removed the leak off pipes from the injectors, and tried the ignition-on with engine off check. No fuel coming from injectors tops, but lots coming out of the leak-off pipes...

Apparently the tank pump was replaced, but they were vague about how long ago. It has all the engine covers in place so could not see the FIP properly. TBH I'm not that familiar with this diesel lump !!

Need some guidance from the Diesel experts out there. A local guy & his son stopped by today to see if I could figure out his problem. He's had the P38 since 2002 & it generally seems well looked after. My Nanocom doesn't yet have EDC...

Was assuming the BECM had grabbed the higher milage from the cluster - hence both are now high !!

Do the nut (5) at the far end first. It's easier while the axle end is still attached. Then undo the two marked 7 & 8 in the diagram. If the bolts are fouling on the roll-bar mounts, just undo them & let the roll-bar hang down a bit. Also do...

Did you remove & test the thermostat at any point ? Also it's possible to get the two smaller pipes on the wrong ports, which does affect the coolant flow.

It's gonna need the BECM & Instruments reprogramming by someone with the right tools.

Indeed it will not, instead the dash will update to the new higher mileage :eek:

Also is the pump working & pressurising the system ? Do the usual accumulator checks as well.

She's been drinking that super unleaded again 🤭

Tell her to get out and walk then.....

It normally sits level, but after 10 days not being used, my blue P38 seems to have leaned over a bit !! Usually levels ok when started up !!

nothing wrong with running it for a while with water & always getting ot properly warmed up so you can find any leaks. Then after sorting those, drain & replace with proper coolant.

me too. EAS works well if it's properly setup & maintained.

Yes mine still works. Had to re-gas a few months back dues to leaking compressor, but all good now.

https://www.copilotsearch.com/posts/land-rover-range-rover-velar-years-to-avoid/

Did mine the other way round. RTV to stick them to the covers & then put them on the heads.

Just check if either spade connector on the new horn is grounded to the metal. If not either way round should work ? Try it on battery first.

https://thecarguy.com.au/velour-no-range-rover-velar-si6/

Isn't the velour some sort of Ejoke ??

RAVE All Models includes the 2003 version. Most of it will probably be the same.