Make sure the items that LR say don't need servicing for 10 years, or 150k miles have been done. This includes the timing belt, Haldex service, rear diff oil, PTU oil, gearbox oil, coolant, and brake fluid. If not then factor the cost of doing...

Have you confirmed the battery is charging. Could be a bad earth, when it gives the fault test battery voltage plus to minus and also plus to earthed points, ie the engine. Should all be similar readings.

I’m near you, with an F1 specific reader 😉 PM me

You'll need a F1 specific code reader for it to connect to the ABS. You may find a generic tool that will talk tot he ABS - but that's hit or miss. If the reader is just talking to the main engine ECU it won't find the codes. In fact, it's...

Been keeping my 2007 on the road granted it’s a pile of -:?! But bit of welding here and there gets me through

Cheaper than the airfare ;) Depending on season, cheaper than a motel for the night.

What is the price of a 2 Beth camper for the odd over night stop once a month?

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/land-rover-freelander-parts/ All the LR diagrams are there with all the parts listed. It's a very useful resource

Also was there any mountain cyclist nearby, reported missing 🤔 after his journey🤓😁

Hi there, You need to tell us what car you have. Freelander 1 or 2? What engine you have and is it an auto or not.

SOLVED The clunking was the o/s BRAND NEW Borg & Beck top mount bearing on the strut. Identified and switched out for a LR top mount bearing, no more clunking! The guys at https://www.freelanderspecialist.com/ found it inside 5 minutes. They...

Yet you keep getting damaged batteries……

If there's no charge controller between the solar panel and battery, the voltage will climb high enough to boil the battery. Even a cheap Chinese £10 charge controller will prevent battery damage...

I guess it’s the front skid plate or tray looks lope sided to me is it loose and flapping around!

So I changed the Crank Sensor tonight and the car is running. No stops or jolts so far. I am too scared to drive it around the block because I don't want to sit there for hours waiting for a recovery van. So just running it on the drive for now...

Remember you will need to bleed the fuel system after changing the fuel filter one of these below is very useful. 1 2 What fuel filter did you purchase same as below ? 3 4 Do not try to start the car unless it as been bleed. The crank sensor...

Update; Given that I have not touched the hub (appreciate it ‘could’ be damaged), and there is no noticeable wobble when rocking the wheel left/right or up/down, I’m ruling that out at present. Given that I’ve also double-checked the struts and...

If it clicking I would assume it trying to start. The Park switch usually does not allow that. A good code reader will help you out, but whilst you waiting double check all battery/starter connections and earths. Double check any connections that...

Not shorted a starter for quite some time, but does that work with modern starters ? Not sure if they need an exciter feed to wake them up.

Have you done an air path calibration? The ECM calculates the MAF values during the calibration. Not doing a calibration will give MAF read variations, which the calibration irons out.

Black smoke you say check the little hose connected to to the throttle body for a split, if that is ok check the lower hose going to the intercooler on the same route. The MAF would most likely cause a limp home mode, if it was that much out. 1

I now use Advanced Factors, after being recommended to them on here. Good products and good prices. https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/land-rover-freelander-2-l359-2006-2014-4-c Depending on its history, you probably ought to also do the fuel...

Did you also change the power steering reservoir, it as a built in filter which cannot be changed, so could be restricting the flow of fluid? they are cheap enough.

Managed to get it off with a 14mm spark plug socket, all sorted now👍

I have looked at the started, and to be fair I'm not confident it's any good. I have taken it out and shorted it and not firing, so next on the checklist is a new starter. Will keep you posted. Thanks

Before you buy anything two things to do 1: try smacking the starter with a hammer to see if it unsticks 2: the battery cables have nuts and bolts on them where other cables connect to the main battery cables make sure they are not loose and are...

As above. You've got to remove the strut to access the top mount. Technically it's possible, but as the strut is secured to hub assembly by just 2 bolts, it's not worth messing about trying to get enough space with the strut in place.

No it only comes out from below.

Spray some silicone lube on the pedal bushings, which have probably gone sticky.

Niether. But if she tries to force the situation, the wife needs to be told that it its the car or her that goes, the Freelander is staying put.