Think there is a floating bracket that goes into that slot that the two bolts screw into.
Think pt no is 332121, cannot find any so may have to make your own.
I did have to push it until the CEL blinked on me hahaha, i had to take off my contraption of the EVRY mod that time. im now currently facing the issue when I fitted a VNT where it chokes at some point and then runs normally in a few seconds then...
I have not owned a d1 (1997 model ES auto) for many years now, but I did try a tuning box and it was pretty good, then got a proper remap/intercooler done and it literally flew, it was certainly quicker than the d2 I replaced it with.
One tip I...
As soon as I read header tank empty, I thought damaged bores.
Truth is older d3 like mine are pretty much worthless, even the newest d3 will be 16 years old.
Have you got yours welded yet?
Then to be honest I would not waste any money on diagnostic/repairs, I think it might be time for the car to meet the great scrapyard in the sky, sad as when running right they are great cars.
If you remove the front smaller under shield (4 bolts) you might get to it that way.
But if when you try and crank it the fan only turns a little it does not sound like good news.
Have you checked the levels oil/coolant etc?
Just putting feelers out Not mine but advertising for a good friend. 1960 Series 2 Project. got 200 Tdi and Galv chassis, think all of parts are there to finish, roof doors, bonnet etc etc to many to list. loads of Brand New parts to go with...
Straight edge across front face of timing chest and measure from straight edge to the face of the gears?
Using same straight edge see if the timing chest itself is bent.
Could be the inj pump or the timing chest that is not square, ie something stopping either one seating correctly.
Remember cam and crank are square as they are in the block, inj pump and tensioner rely on the timing chest.