possibly this too? https://at-manuals.com/manuals/zf-4hp22-4hp24/

does this help? https://classicroverforum.net/index.php?threads/zf-4hp22-step-by-step.34993/

bet yours is nice though so probably worth it!

10k for galv chassis fitted… oh my god. if i was paying someone to fit a galv, i would anticipate never selling it in all honesty. I’ll just be waiting a while until i find one i’ll be happy with that’s ok price and needs some work but isn’t...

Personally I think that in reality they are all overpriced. Expensive to own, run, fuel, tax, insurance and park now with emissions rated parking. Galv chassis would be getting on for £10k fitted so the sellers would want good money for it...

Sellers market, if you want a maintainable LR which is easy to keep on the road, you have to pay for it. As to Defender prices, a D2 is a much nicer place to be.

looks a good un, specially as it came from Japan. Might have to dig a bit deeper re the chassis, could fit lpg at the same time. Is your bid in there @kevstar ? 🤣 🤣 🤣

Just looked at what a galv chassis costs now and it’s around 3k, was 2k last time I looked so probably 6k for a galv chassis one is realistic now not 5k. Also, I think I was right on one last night after reading it again LMAO! I reckon I’m going...

Thats nice good luck mate lol. Now I see why you want a sheetbox to weld as you want a good excuse to get oot the hoose. 🤣🤣

No, missus having 3rd kid in 2 weeks and I’m losing my mind hahahaha! I’ve not actually seen that one but I bet it will probably hit 7/8k

Is everything alright at home ?? 🤣 🤣 Bid on this if you've got the funds...

I gotta ask, am I delusional or are a lot of the current sellers of D2’s? Cause I’m seeing D2’s for like 3-4k that does not mention anything to do with welding the go-to places on a disco, it does mention about how all the filters have been...

I've replaced the injector harness — it was full of oil at the plug at the cylinder head. I cleaned the ECU as well, and so far, after 150 km, there have been no problems with the throttle. Also I've celand most grounding points I can reach. And...

IMO that spike in the readings is the moment when the symptom occurs and it can be caused by a weak contact somewhere(ECU plugs or other connector, oil acts as isolator in the red plug) otherwise nothing wrong with the TPS or other sensor...

A couple of the guys on D2BC have fitted that one - apparently just needs the connector on the cable changing for the one from the old fan.

Did you have any pedal errors as described in your first post happen? Have you done your injector harness? If not then change it, monitor the red plug for oil and clean periodically.

Unfortunately that motor seems obsolete all over the place, i bought one as well about 2 years ago then sent the bad one to a rewinding service and they made it like new for half the price so i keep that for spare.

Yea saw that, every time I looked last year it was out of stock and has been ever since.. unless I’m just unlucky. Assumed it was an out of stock permanently lol. Also don’t forget it might cost a lot more due to the import taxes now.

Mine did the same but wasn’t salvageable, I did look on ebay though and there is a lot on there that should work as a replacement but they’re expensive, so I’d have a look and see if there are any used on there a bit cheaper. try searching...

I didn't have any of the right gaskets or O rings for both the oil filters so I've had to order those. The main cooler gasket was leaking from both of the lower oilways. This where I am currently.

I would be upset if water was getting into the gearbox and would quickly find out how, as that would mean oil would be leaking out ☹️

With multimeter is shows 12.4V when engine off, nanocom shows 12.07V. Yeah, I need manual ECU, now I don’t have cruise control, clutch switch isn’t plugged in. I’ve read that TD5insied can convert auto ecu to manual but am not sure that true...

I’ve queried this elsewhere and was confirmed to me that it is the wading plug hole for the bell housing, engine doesn’t have one as isn’t needed but bell housing does and its random from what I’ve seen if you have one fitted still or not. I...

That will never work well unless you are very skilled with electronics and work on the PCB to insert the clutch switch's input circuit which is missing in the auto EU also you have to remap it for manual, simply changing settings with nanocom is...

So little update it was a combination of a worn ignition barrel (that already had been replaced), terrible connection on the common 12v input (brown wire in center) and the ignition switch internals being fully worn out and corroded. So changed...

Also when you get it running on brake cleaner, does it die after you’ve stopping providing it or does it start with the brake cleaner and run as normal off the fuel in the tank?

might be a daft question, but you have enough fuel right? Mine wouldn’t start when very low on fuel, just as the light turns on but I chucked 10 litre in and bled it then it started first crank.

Does anybody know how to take the entire dashboard off? I’ve not had much looking finding the info and need it off. I’ve got the instrument cluster off and the plug at the top was melted a small amount but the wiring is fine. All the side buttons...

Still on Auto ECU, just change settings in Nanocom from auto to manual but that’s in BCU as far as I know. Okay I will record it next time I drive. Thanks a lot. Okay will check it, thanks a lot. Okay first I will check via Nanocom voltages...

Use your nanocom to watch the voltages of the brake pedal when pressing it/driving, if your foot is constant and the voltage is sporadic and the symptoms happen then it’s the brake pedal.