Ive got a bent pipe one by my feet right now - looks harder to change the matrix on than the straight one. I think the change over was at around 1994 (at the 200 to 300 change)

I got so sick of trying to trouble shoot it on the vehicle that i got it all on the kitchen table! Id swap the broken plastic things for a raptor unit in the blink of an eye at any point into the future.

You have to take the front off the binnacle - screws on either end and the base. Then the gauges have a screw and u shaped clip thing that has to come off. Make sure you pay attention to the black wire with the eyelets on it, and replace it in...

I read that they were all bad. I then changed the thermostat in the engine and the heat coming out of the duct holes is at the "hotness" where you can hold your hand under it, but any hotter, and you would not want to. As the OP notes, however...

I've just got some alloy layered to fit flush in the hole on mine (and another with a border to cover the joint on the inside). When I get around to it I'm going to bond the whole lot in and be shot of it for good. (I have a non sunroof liner...

If they're rivnuts (or some other sort of self-expanding captive nut) once you've ground the outer flange off, you should be able to push them through so they fall down inside the chassis and then you can put new ones in. I should know, becuase...

If they're in riv nuts, my money is on the riv nut spinning before the bolt remains come free. Before you spend a whole bunch of time on it, I would suggest making sure that your new fuel component mates up to the fuel lines perfectly still, as...

I've got a drum axel on a 110, and id like it to be disc. The conversion is simple enough, but when you get to things like the brake caliper mounting brackets at £70 a side, the numbers start to go a bit wrong! I'm wondering if it wouldn't be...

I know plenty of people do the conversion like you say, but I don't really understand it - Why not mount the engine in the factory 300 position and just buy a cheap, stock, 300 exhaust etc? I know the cowel etc all needs altering then, but you...

I can not find a number on my rear either. However, as far as I'm aware, all 110 Salisbury rears had the same diff and casing, but it's just the shafts and "other bits" that change. Didn't some 200s still have drums, but later ones had discs...

When you look on the jaguar landrover website, choose the 22L from the list on the right and you will get the part number. It's one of the three I gave, but I can't be bothered to look it up again, so I'm not sure which of the three it is.

It looks like you have a few different part numbers - FRC2644 FRC7065 or TIR100000 What you need is the number off the top of the axel. This is an example, for you to locate yours by, from a 20L axel -

If you look on the jaguar landrover site for 200tdi era housings it will give you the part number. This may, or may not be the same as later, but, either way, youll know what to order.

Are you wanting parts doing, or an entire vehicle?

Can you confirm that you have a good ground on the back of the gauge itself? Stock 300tdi setup is this little black wire with a daisy chain of eyelets on it. If the eyelets are loose (on either the temp gauge OR the gauge where it's grounded...

I can't work out where you are. Clicking on your profile tells me I'm not worthy to know! I'm 250 miles from home currently. Who knows, you may be just (well, 50 miles I guess) down the road!

Id happily take it here. But my "here" and your "there" are probably miles apart. Id just chuck the in the boiler tank. It would dilute away to nothing. Edit : the boiler here is configured to run on 35sec fine. A riello 28sec may get...

If it only runs when other stuff is off, could it be that the fan motor is trying to ground though somthing that is being pulled "high" when the other stuff is running? I would start by running a temporary ground from the heater, to a known good...

I've got a pickup back that's too far gone to be salvageable. I was just going to scrap it - it's been offroaded and the dents have gone beyond dents and turned into tears... It's not even worth plating it. But the front end of it is ok...

I've got a bulkhead to do - Loads of the repair panels are now powdercoated for some reason. I want to get the bulkhead dipped when it's done, so want bare panels. I mailed YRM, who always used to claim that they made all the parts...

I dont know the lt85, but, basically, you want to adjust the springs so as the "neutral" mid point is in line with 3rd and 4th, and not wobbling about all over the place. So, to then get it into gear in 3rd or 4th, it should be a simple / basic...

I have a slickshift for the r380. I purchased it new as my partner complained about the sloppy gear change. I then adjusted the box without fitting it... And the slick shift is still in its box, never having been fitted. What im saying from...

Im guessing its gearbox is the lt77 - they make one for them, i think.

Pressure washer. But then just your standard off the shelf gunwash / thinners. They (probably) won't touch the original paint but will the new stuff.

External cage wanted for 110 station wagon. They come up on eBay now and again but the sellers have always forgotten to remove the "hidden" structural parts. I'm in Devon, but have a working vehicle, some of the time...

The top bit seems easy to recover. Ive not personally done it, but a (real life) friend did his a couple of months ago without any real bother.