All easy stuff you could do yourself in a day maybe.

I’d be changing the stub axle seals as the oil that’s dripping looks like ep90

Maybe not enough room for you but on the Grenadier they mount the spare wheel the opposite way round and have a storage area in the wheel hollow.

I read it as they came down the section to the left of the waterfall going downhill, which is slightly less steep

My experience with terrafirma shocks and springs would say there no where near as good as ome stuff. Springs rust massively quick and shocks snap pins or leak fluid from new. Had 2 sets of terrafirma shocks replaced under warranty before ditching them and buying ome from Glyn Lewis

Just used rtv silicone on mine with no issues.

Remove the swivel seal and let grease drip out. Refit seal and fill with new grease. Make sure to turn the wheels so new grease passes the goes into the swivel and not on top of it.

My thermostat opens at 85’ on an analogue dial. That equates to 3/4 the way up the Land Rover temp dial

That’s all above my pay grade lol. I believe factory set is 1 bar of boost.

Had mine done at Diesel Bobs last year, £400 inc vat.

I’d say the boost pin makes more difference, It’s like most tuning things, it’s a game of diminishing returns. I’ve a turner performance head with turbo technics vnt turbo, so the extra fuelling is required to get the best from the other mods. The defender is a lot nicer to drive now, easily...

Boost ring alters the advance timing ever so slightly, allowing fuel to burn better at high revs, supposedly increasing power at the top end.

New defender service interval is 2 years or 21000 miles, whichever comes sooner.

Are you taking the boost measurement by T-ing off the boost pipe to the fuel pump, as close as possible to the turbo. Your always going to loose some pressure due to pipe expansion and joints in the flow. I get around 1.4 bar on the boost gauge with foot to the floor booting it.

Ive got one of there vnt’s on my 200tdi, they come factory set at 1.5 bar.