If desperate, pic 2 above shows the little clip that holds the brake shoe in, one for each shoe, cut them off at the back( might not have to do this) and use a puller to remove the hub. Might only be a small lip but shoes could be dragging. The...
If its the fl2 then I think there is a tool to access it easier. Don't over tighten it. If you move it the it's bound to be in the way of something else. With practice it should become easier to to remove and not get so much oil down your arms...
The more you take off the tray the easier it'll become. And the support will support the engine but sometimes you need to move the engine higher or to the side. Trolley jack is safer than a bottle jack. Decent ramps help, I use Halfords ones as...
Access is easier from under the car. Get something to lie on and something to rest your head on. As it's rounded off get another cap, 2nd hand if possible. Whatever additional tools, mole grips as suggested will add to your tool kit and hopefully...
You could try some mole grips if the plastic 27mm head as rounded off, failing that you could heat up a long screwdriver posi and push it through the head of the 27mm cap and try getting it turning that way.
It is a FL 2 Freelander right.
1
2...
They can be changed without dropping the subframe, just remove the other 2 and the diff will move enough to wiggle it out. Don't skimp unless you want to replace them every couple of years.
Just pull the bottom rad hose and let it spill, but keep in mind that the coolant isn't allowed to get on the ground or into drains, as it's toxic.
No need to flush if it comes out clean, and no need to start the engine either.
Just refill...
I"ve got the Freelander back with 2 new Belts Contitech 202771525 plus Contitech 20330045 and it cost me £234.33p. Was it worth it, bloody hell yes. How the hell can anyone manage without a car????
I would check compression first.
Does the heater get hot too? After the hg was done was the whole cooling system flushed out as it may have become blocked when the fluids mixed.
We will know when we get it going, it was running and smoking, and you could here the turbo come in until the HPFP was changed out so another will be fitted and go from there, just waiting on the weather to warm up a little.
Is the starting issue long crank times or slow turning over/ battery flat.
I think the battery reset alters how much it is charged, so should still be charged just maybe not to the new batterys capacity.
I'd say find out what it is first.
Rear diff can cause issues and is a common failure point.
Bell Engineering are knowledgeable and it may be worth a chat or drive over there.
Yes it makes sure it is seated correctly in the oil pot/chamber, also some come with seals in the filter this needs to be also seated correctly in the base of the pot.
Is there a reason to put the filter in the chamber rather than the cap?
I've only put mine in the cap first and never considered putting it in the chamber first.
That i don't know, just thinking all a diesel needs is fuel air and compression to start.
There should be some live data you can monitor showing air flow and fuel pressure.