Takes a while for the aircon to get down to temperature. Hotter it is the longer it takes.

I doubt that reading is real. Certainly not likely with the cap off so atmospheric pressure.

Good morning everyone, I was able to complete everything successfully. Thank you very much! When I put the car back on the wheels, everything aligned perfectly and I was able to insert the rear bolt by hand. Yes, I will continue to work on the...

tr try putting jumper lead from battery - terminal to a metel part of the engine and see if its a bad earth

The question is how do you tell? They taste different, obviously.

That sounds like it comes from personal expierence?

What he said. Not on a 38 but a 110, I had to jack the nose of the diff up, which rotates it, a bit to get the trailing arms lined up.

You can put cardboard down so if small drip dries you can still see it. Just make sure it’s coolant marks not cats pi**

20 minutes later and it's holding at around 14 psi. Maybe a very small variance from where it was at the start

Found a leak, water pump hose clamp. Tightened and pressurised to 14 psi again, fingers crossed.

Give it time

Normally they use the windy gun on max-torque and just hammer it up.

If things start to go a bit squirly it’s often best to go and have a cup of tea and/or leave it till tomorrow. Trust me I’m an eggspurt at snapping things that are generally indestructible. Even forced a bolt once but instead of the bolt shearing...

I have wired my a/c fans to a switch so that when i see the temp climing i can manually start them

Dealing with the public is never easy, had years of that.

Is it called Christine?

someone mentioned about my car playing mind games confirmed! in winter i have to manually adjust the hvac to get warm otherwise it just trickles luke warm after to the footwell vents and the cabin doesnt get warm this morning.. its already...

Yes, I don't think going above 95C is sensible.

Oil filter wrench, the band or strap type, can help remove and refit.

"There's no screw, the accumulator just unscrews" :homer:

Good evening everyone, I currently have a lot of work on the vehicle. The ABS accumulator has been delivered. I want to swap it tomorrow. Just to be on the safe side: - The car is stationary and the engine is not running - Hit the brakes 30 times...

My sensor is bolted to the head so probably a few degrees cooler than the head itself and maybe a few degrees below the coolant as well. Usually it runs between 85 and 95C on my sensor. Thermostat opens at 82, I think. The air con fans come in...

from my experience with the viscous on the v8.. when it started to fail, the average running temp while driving clicked up a degree or 2. swapped the viscous and it dropped back down again

Indeed. How's the hair-shirt? Still itching?

It rarely breaks 95C. Prolonged hills, especially when towing.

Short runs with their associated cold starts are a killer. I once had a 3.5 efi auto that returned 7mpg (brim-to-brim check) because I had no choice but to use the car for a week of 5 mile single journeys in the middle of winter.

I don't think so. That M51 head is its weak point. That's why later models pull in the aircon fans as well. That's on top of the Land Rover rad which is a thicker core than the aftermarket ones. Most of the time it is fine but work it hard all...

If you go above 95 at the head on a doozle you wont ignore it for long, Itl give you no choice

Oddly enough I might modify the aircon fans to kick in at 95.

like the l322 😂 I know, was just saying lecky fans usually don't kick in til over 100° easy, one of my cars does lo at 105 and hi at 112. 95 isn't a problem. This talk makes me wonder if the lecky fan connector on the l322 actually works now 🤔