:cool: Done, not 100% happy considering how much effort I put in but looks lush ...if you don't stare at it too long..🤪:vb-lol:

I asked the same question when I was recommissioning my 38 around 3 yrs ago. The only plausible explanation is to help against vibration fractures but ...not convinced. I made exact copies anyway just in case.

Disc lock. The arm type ones like krooklock are next to useless. Pedal lock as well. They'll still try to nick your doors though but you can fit security type bolts to help there.

The filler was similar to silicon when dry, rubbery and prone to peeling rather than feathering out like body filler, pita but got it satisfactory eventually. First coat of black dye.

Filler surprisingly goes a long way. First pass, letting that go off, then another layer on the deeper damage, then the dyeing bit. Hopefully there's enough black dye to change the colour from cream.

Steering wheel restoration kit arrived yesterday so set to. that dark stuff that I assumed was the finish wearing off was infact grime. The alcohol cleaner in the kit barely touched it and there would be no where near enough anyway to do all the leather. Smelt like nail varnish remover but...

Leak offs are 3.2mm inside diameter. Fuel flow are 10mm OD 8mm ID Fuel return are 8mm OD 6mm I D.

My cd player keeps playing up, says no disc when there is, stripped it down twice in my 3 years of ownership and it works again even though I can see nowt wrong through my untrained eye and I haven't adjusted anything. Got a good , apparently, used one and it makes whirry noises when plugged...

Swopped over the master pushrods and all is well again. Had some issues bleeding the clutch but got there in the end, all back together and a limited test on the drive has given me good rev and first gears again. In case someone does a search and comes across this thread...if removing the slave...

Yeah, if I had a totally knacked wheel I would have a go at recovering it then on to a pro if I couldn't get it right. This one has a few nicks and a fair bit of wear, mainly on the back, so it's worth a go with the restoration kit at £25. It's got the cleaner, paint and sealer, no sandpaper or...

Looks straightforward enough to DIY to me. Looking closer at it...it doesn't look unfeasible to remove the leather and use that as a template to cut and sew on new stuff. Plenty of saddlers in Shropshire would probably have the gear and skills to do a decent job if it came to that.

I feel your pain, one of the reasons I fitted a disc braked axle to my 85 110. I used 2 large flat bladed screwdrivers behind the drum 180deg apart and put pressure on them (probably need another pair of hands) then smacked the outside of the drum with a heavy copper mallet I've got, rotating...

Look what I've got hold of! Wood is good, leather is damaged and the wrong colour but I've ordered a repair kit so see how that pans out as I've never done it before.

That's all most of us do at bed time now.. :vb-lol:

That type fuse and fuse holders are notorious for making a bad contact. I would replace the blown one after disconnecting the batteries, removing all the fuses and cleaning up the fuse holders and fuse contact ends with some wire wool or something. Blow off any bits of wire wool before...