Yes was going to replace bearings anyway, Funds are low at the moment so hoping to get away with just new rings and maybe honing the bores, but still need to get the crank checked at machine shop.

Well they need replacing! Just seen a nice 200tdi crank on eBay decent price

Yes copper showing on bearings

Thanks for Link, so could these +.020 pistons be used again with a Hone of the bores, if they clean up OK Pics of bearing numbers

Will try and get better pics, Something else bugging me again, these pistons are ae a350800 +.020 piston as in pic, after googling them thy are stated as Oversize, Could that mean that they are not the standard ones ? and they have been replaced...

Some higher res photos would be better a few MB rather that KB ,but the area where the crank seal runs looks better, I cleaned bearing surfaces with some 1000grit wet and dry and some wd40 Need a mic to measure diameters to check, not sure you...

Bit more off of Turners. https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/products/err-1181-crankshaft?_pos=4&_sid=96475c640&_ss=r

ERC1181, pls do check that is the correct part number before buying! Just thinking engineers time plus machining/polishing might come to more than a new one costs...

Looks like that has had water in there, if keeping it I would get a machine shop to take a look at it. Iirc std 200 cranks are not mega money.

Bit worried about the crank at flywheel end wondering if it needs grinding or not or if its to far gone, the rest is OK. Any Thoughts ?

Ive done it the other way, wished I hade seen this erliar. Anyway I locked the pump in place and took it off with the timing tool so hopefully it will be OK. Got crank and pistons out, end of crank at flywheel end is a bit crusty, not sure what...

I ended up grinding the bolt heads off, there was about 5mm bolt to get hold of with mole grips and surprisingly they came out easy.

There is a locking tab on the side of the injection pump to lock the pump timing before removing. Set the timing correctly,, undo the bolt remove locking tab and tighten the bolt. You can then remove the belt and pump.

Bit further forward, Finally got front timing cover off, got sump and ladder rack off, to inspect bearings on crank, think they could do with been replaced, then again would be mad not to while I am this far in. Have not took timing belt off...

http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Also the 200tdi article on turner engineering The discovery 1 manual very helpful and Britannia does good videos , he has loads so have a search Sump:bolts should not be tight, sometimes a 1/4 “ drive rattle...

Thanks Everyone, Got it on tonight, its at a bit of an angle, in first pic, not sure why, but it does turn right round with a bit of effort. Not sure what to do first either give tops of pistons and block a good clean or take sump off and see...

Thanks Again Mate will order some

I used 100mm long bolts, yes use the circled holes, don’t need to go full depth, I used additional nuts on the bolt to nip them up and saved cutting bolts https://www.toolstation.com/high-tensile-set-screw/p51414

Thanks my stand looks exactly like yours, I measured how far the studs go in to engine and the top is 2 about 35mm and bottoms about 30mm, the tubes on stand are 70mm so think I will need bolts about 120mm or longer. pic of mine so is it 4...

you should use the top 2 and the bottom 2 holes , my stand is a clarke and you can see the adjusting brackets and the long 10mm bolts with additional locknuts, it can revolve 360 degrees and lock in position just under the rubber gloves with a...

I'd probably grind the heads off those bolts to get the cover off, then tackle the stud that's left in the casing. Edit, too slow on that reply. Yes, I've currently got a 200tdi almost fully build up, turbo, manifolds, etc. on a Clarke 350kg...

The bolts are only m10 I think and dont think they go in to the housing very far, got flywheel and housing off ready to try but a Bit worried if 4 bolts will hold it on stand, I know its been done before as have seen pics of them on. Do you...

Yes I was wondering about that bung too.

I would grind the bolt heads off, remove the timing cover, strip that down and then remove the timing chest which could be fun! then you have full access to remains of the bolts, the worst three are normally the ones around the water gallery (top...

Funny how I did both Ebay links the same and they came out different. Thanks for letting me know, whether I remember or not is a different matter.

Thanks Borrowed that kit from a Mate. Got another bloody problem now though, Some of the nuts on timing case have rounded off, Tried everything to loose them off, left them with penetrating oil over night, Heat, and even those Irwin bolt...

Thanks Mate just read your post on your rebuild, Great Job you done there Mate, some great Info there will save it to look back on. Have not checked my bearings yet but gonna try and get engine out tomorrow to fit on stand and will have a...

Got the head off today, not experienced enough to tell if its OK or not, there is some cross hatching on 3 of the bores number 1 at front had oil as you can see in pics, rods seem to be ok .

Took my Toyota Hilux head to them for pressure test and skim last year, 100 quid, the bores were ok so I got one of them honing things that fits on drill and honed the bores, kept the origional pistons but put new rings on and everything was...