Unrelated question, but does anyone know what this connector is for? Been hanging disconnected since I got the rover. Driver side of the boot lining.

Top hose was cold and squishy this morning. No obvious leaks either, so fingers crossed. Next issue is why my battery doesn't last more than a few hours, but I'll save that for another thread

When the coolant is cold, there should be no pressure.

I'm guessing it should still be hard by the morning if the pressure is holding?

I doubt that reading is real. Certainly not likely with the cap off so atmospheric pressure.

I haven't got asbestos fingers either, it's a very quick squeeze to avoid 2nd degree burns to my fingertips 😆

May she be sealed forever!

Top hose is hard but not rock solid - there is a small amount of give when it gets a good squeeze

Just been for a 10 minute drive. Temps idling between 90-91, max 92. I'll keep an eye on the levels and for any leaks. Only thing that concerns me - assuming the OBD tool is correct - what kind of damage could have occured if the temps...

That was too expensive 😆 Hopefully the coolant doesn't spill out when I hoover the carpet next...

Just had another go. I taped the end of my hoover up and created a makeshift slot for the rad bleed pipe: And after I filled up to the neck of the bottle, I stuck the hoover on for a few seconds. The level in the expansion bottle quickly...

I've got 1/2 the vacuum kit, just missing a compressor :( I did blow through the hose too. I'll have another go today

Would it be unwise to put the hose directly in to the cabin heater pipe and give it a good blast?

I believe I followed the RAVE method: - Drained as much as I could via rad plug - Slowly filled expansion tank with a hose on a small stream - Started engine, monitored level, waited for thermo to open - Stopped engine, waited for it to cool...

Just been out again and ran it for a while with the cap off to let any air escape. Still idled in the middle of the temp gauge. I noticed that the right side pipe to the cabin was hot, but the left side pipe was not. Possible air in the cabin...

Just went out again and topped up the water. Ran for about 10 minutes, temperature reading on the device was in the high 90s, possibly very slowly creeping up. Dash temp gauge in the middle. Noticed the blowers weren't that hot, so possible...

Needle was in the middle on the temp gauge. Don't say that now - I don't want another warped head on my hands!

It seems to be running fine - but I haven't left it running for too long just in case it was getting too hot. Upper rad hoses were scalding to the touch, but not rock solid, only quite hard. Once it's cooled I'll double check the levels and give...

No leaks overnight. Drained coolant today via rad plug, and slowly refilled with just water for now. Followed the process in RAVE - but when I ran it again the temperature was averaging around 117-118C, which is decently outside normal range...

I've pumped the tool by itself, will keep an eye on it. Finished reassembling, started up and seems to be running okay. No leaks so far. It did start to overheat after about 10 minutes, but I was expecting that because I haven't refilled the...

20 minutes later and it's holding at around 14 psi. Maybe a very small variance from where it was at the start

Personally I'd give it 20 min.. if it holds good for that long then it's ok. In my opinion

Found a leak, water pump hose clamp. Tightened and pressurised to 14 psi again, fingers crossed.

Nearly 3 hours later, the pressure is down to 6 psi. Seems I've got some more digging to do

I've reassembled everything that's in the cooling circuit and pressurised to 15 psi. First attempt sent water everywhere because I didn't tighten a hose clamp properly. I've left it to dry and set the pressure at 15psi again, how long should the...

It has mostly gone well. New gasket is on and manifold is in place, with 11 out of 12 bolts in. The last bolt (5 in the tightening diagram, one before the left rear) is cross threaded, so it's become a pain. I didn't force it any further, it's a...

Thor instructions below... 18NM for a Thor engine. 17 for a GEMS.

Cheers, I'll have a go at that. And it's 17NM for the seal clamp bolts, right?

I put it just around the coolant ports. But I run a bead around the port, all the way along the back and front of the valley (right over the 4 "V" shaped notches mentioned in RAVE) and then around the other port in one continuous bead. Rubber...

Remind me before I fit this new valley gasket: 1. Do I need to use RTV around the intake ports or just the coolant ports 2. Do I need any RTV on the rubber seals Thanks