For drivers side horn I found it's easier to reach up from under the car through the battery tray to access it. As a "temporary" fix for my last MoT/testing I got a plug kit and crimped on the female prongs and then pushed them onto the male prongs inside the horn body, this allowed me to find...

I think it was an option for duals until ~98 where it became standard. As with everything Landy at the time, nothing seems to be set in stone and anyone can have anything if they ask for it. But not sure what the score was for Japan. They had pre and post cat O2 sensors, so 2 exits wouldn't...

If it's a jap import that'll be KM which is about 65k miles. But that is a pre 99 P38 for sure, so a bit sus to claim it a 2000.

Tried sorting the fueling issues, following Keith's guide first try I managed to get modulation down from 73% to 60%, but I realised the rear support bracket is missing from the FIP, so saw that as a good place to stop as the modulation was bouncing from 60% to 10% and back up to 60 again. Which...

Suppose that makes sense, front airbags were rated for a 10 year life (15 year side airbags). I can't imagine anyone ever had them replaced so even the youngest are looking at 23 years old.

Have you considered this guide? Not sure on the longevity of that fix but it's a simple option. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5-diesel-oil-cooler-pipes-an-economical-way.240658/

I'll try Keith's method first, if it all comes undone, I may well take you up on that.

It does, bigger issue is it doesn't rev at all, put your foot down and wait. The old girl hasn't been drivable since this pump was fitted. I've got the lads in the metal bay at work making me a timing pin, and I'll get a static timing kit ordered.

I have the first one he sent me that failed. Unfortunately I sent back my good but a bit leaky pump shortly after the first was fitted. Never did get back my core charge.

Ironically I do, hasn't worked since it went on in December, which replaced the one that went on in October but failed in November. CN4X4 stopped answering my calls, so slowly getting the tools and parts to fix it all myself.

That is my understanding too, based on looking at RAVE the fuel temp sensor is under the top cover of the FIP and a new one is about £20 and looks an easy replacement.

Is the fuel quantity not low as a 90 year olds ball sack? Or is it likely to balance out a little after a new temp sensor?

I'ma hold off, been pointed out my fuel temp is way out, so gonna change that before I touch anything else, as the pump thinks the fuel is way colder than it should be.

Finally got a nano for it. I'm not sure if I'm reading it right though, but if I am, the fuel value should be 5ish, but is currently 63 (or is it the 23.5)? So running lean. And the timing, should be around 50%, so is currently retarded. If I am right, the percentage is set by static timing and...

Engine swaps wouldn't make a vehicle compliant, it's the OEM engine that counts. But, that means you could get a 4.0 P38 which can be registered as ULEZ compliant, and then stick in a LS motor and still be golden.