Good stuff ! It's key that it all sits in the pulleys otherwise it will never go on !! Must be at least 5mm bigger than the belt run !!

If the belt is correctly on all the pulleys and down properly, pushing the tensioner will just allow it to fit over the crank pulley. I usually get it half on and then relocate my tensioner spanner and bite a bit more turn.

Obvs take wheel off and plastic splash guard. Get comfy by wheel as it needs lot of control and effort to turn it enough.

15/16 inch AF spanner and extension bar. Fit around all top pulleys and idlers and tensioner. Make sure belt is down in grooves fully or it won't go on... Slide over crank pulley last. Don't put fingers between belt and pulley else if it slips...

Local FL2 tried some 'off roading' !

What's the story ?? Replacement will be ? Where is it going ?

Having fitted a new clutch, new slave and attached this to a known working master cylinder I was not at all surprised to find the clutch bite was in the carpet. It has happened before but never really found not why it happens and how to fix it...

Good question !! Cut to fit but can measure and will post.

Maybe if not fired they are ok but their ability to close after opening and engine running ?? Just sharing thoughts....

Sounds like one or more injectors are dropping fuel (leaking) when engine off over time and causing overfuelling when started up.

Maybe your ecu connectors need cleaning for the F4 ?? Or a broken wire when changing the unit.

Courtesy of @Nodge68 F4 means the gearbox TCM (Transmission Control Module) has implemented its limited operating strategy (commonly called limp mode). This means the gearbox will be locked in 4th gear only (reverse is normally still...

I detailed the reverse clutch change on a pre 2000 model. Yours should have the modified piston already. My (limited) experience with Jatco boxes is that an F4 and any slip are mechanical rather than electrical problems. I am surprised a change...

Duplicate post.

Raises some questions ! Why did you change it? What was original fault ? Did you have F4 before the change? No coding needed but need the right one for the engine. TD4 or V6 etc..

Clutch appears to have sorted itself. I think if the master cylinder is open, pedal down, the air finds its way up. See how it goes. Then other technique I have used in the past is to remove the master cylinder, take the push rod off and compress...

So we have a running engine. Haven't fitted the inlet or intercooler hoses yet as I want to clean the intercooler out first but turbo is whistling on reving and no leaks !! It has a bit of TD4 clutch syndrome. New slave fitted and the master...

Driveshafts and subframe back on. Wishbones cleaned and painted with Poly boots on ball joints. IRD and Gearbox filled with oil. A good tip, easier to fill gearbox before fitting subframe if you have it removed for any reason. Anti roll bar...

Reverse.

Thanks

Anyone recognise the vehicle in the 'gearbox end' photo ??

Here you go - engine bay shots, the bits that you can't easily see with the engine in place. Photos taken standing inside the engine bay with some key components listed to allow you to work out where you are looking ! TD4 Manual Facelift vehicle...

Isn't your headlamp leveling on left of steering wheel ?? Any which way there is a blank on the opposite side to the level switch.

BTW. Grabber AT are noisey and slide about in the wet to the point that they scare me !!

I have 15, 16, 17 and 18 inch wheels on 4 different Freelanders. The 18 inch with 50 series tyres is best on the motorway but not good on pot holes. My 17 inch wheels with 225/65 Geolanders is by far the best ride and they last forever !! Well...

A solution that I came up with for USB and a useful battery voltmeter is this. https://ebay.us/m/e0yGIy It also fits in the right-hand spare blanked hole that is for LHD headlight adjustment. It is a tight fit but a touch with a file or sharp...

Replacement engine with working IRD now in car. Just have to connect it all up and rebuild the front subframe and wishbones, driveshafts etc. If I did it again I would remove the bolts holding the manual gear lever link arms on the bulkhead...

Failed engine now out of car and on trolley with good IRD removed ready to fit to replacement engine and then pop the whole lot back in the car. Found a broken gearbox connector, 1st or reverse switch so fitted a spare plug to the loom. So the...

Green car into workshop, had a bit of an electric drive around on starter first as most of it will go in the scrap bin!! All bits in better condition than donor engine swapped over; pcv, fuel return hose, broken clips etc. All top disconnections...

Wear goggles !!