Good stuff. Shows new, known manufacturer's components can still let you down. Glad it's sorted.

Yep, been living near the seaside !! That's why it is donating its goodies before being recycled !! Not a single like for April 1st. ☹️

Absolutely free way to lift suspension. Take all unnecessary components off and up it goes ! Biggest difference was made when the insulation tape was taken off the wiring loom. Have a great DAY 👍 See photos. .

It can be done. Undo hub nut. Loosen trailing arm to hub bolt. No need to do more than a couple of turns. Undo and remove trailing arm to chassis bolt and let arm hang. Undo lower arm to subframe bolts x2. Unbolt handbrake cable clip to subframe...

Figured if anyone would know those parts it might just be you. :)

Do reverse lights stay on with engine running ??

Need to find out why it is 8.8 V at the fuse. If battery is 12.7 V. Maybe a bad battery terminal or loose ?? Good luck on your fuse hunt.

At 8.8V then you battery also needs charging if it is not damaged.

The 120A fuse is the main feed to the ignition switch and then on to many functions... I have posted the circuit. Any 120 A fuse that fits will be fine.

Glebewood Lodge, Brandon Road, Methwold, Norfolk, IP26 4RH, United Kingdom Maybe! ?? Not recommending as never used

Looks like the coolant rail 'O' ring. Cheap to buy, tricky to fit. Either release the rail from fixings or drop the water pump off to replace.

Circuit shows an 'illumination relay' which is what you have circled. Don't know what this is?? Don't think it is inhibitor.

No coding needed for your vehicle. Hope you didn't pay anything for it !!

Now sold. Many thanks.

On the FL1 it is a simple bearing swap !! Just saying 🫠 It's called progress 🤔

Any help ?? Thread 'Propshaft bearing replacement Freelander 2' https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/propshaft-bearing-replacement-freelander-2.326310/

No idea what it should look like. But agree, don't look right !! Is it a bearing or should it be a bearing ?? Looks like a J cloth to me 😀😀

Easy one if you haven't done it, swap front wheels to rear. Balancing ?!?!

Thanks. If I crack an easy way then I will document it.

Thanks. Can you remember what they unbolted to get the driveshaft out. The minimum and hopefully not the brake lines !!?? Thanks

Hi, anyone done this? If you take out the bottom tie bar bolts will the hub pull forward enough to get driveshaft out and clear of hub?? Looking to help a mate and all bolts look horrid and rusty along with the brake cylinder bolts and corroded...

The immobiliser module will prevent the starter motor turning, the ECU will prevent starting so presumably you need to delete the ECU immob function and then rewire the starter to operate without the key chip and code. Worth pursuing I think if...

Tricky one. I read that as 'even if the engine won't run you will be able to unlock the car by buying our product!' However, it won't fix the engine or unimmobilise the immobiliser.

All good for Fobs. No good for keys OP has lost key with chip in.

No, the coil is purely a coil. No coding in the coil and same on all vehicles. The chip in the key which matches the immobiliser and engine ecu has to be present as above.

The key has a chip in the black plastic part of the key. It is this chip that 'talks' to the coil and sends correct signal to the immobiliser module and then to the engine ecu. Without the chip the car will not crank over. Ignition will work OK...

Good memory GG. Who needs a search engine.!! I remember it now that you have told us, which is how I remember most things 😀

If it is driveshaft then putting more power through it would fit the problem.

From MOT history looks like it needs brake pipes and possibly a rear subframe. If it has no rot to the shell would be interested. Have spare subframe and, as above, pipes are straight forward. What is interior like??

Clue might be n/s driveshaft and n/s causing vibration. Could be a bad shaft fitted, made out of line or not balanced properly ?!?!