So when the car and engine have both stopped, what happens next?

Yes, I'm getting old too! I can still plant trees and heave lumps of stone around, so most of me is still working.

That's not good, if they have to trim them to fit after the galv process. Defeats the object :confused:

Morning Brown, thanks for saying hello. Yes, we're ok here, just getting old! How are you doing? I do occasionally check in on your land project, it's time I did again though!

Good to see you again @Al2O3 Hope all's well with you and yours. I haven't any comment to make on doors because I'm still using the original ones the Land Rover came with.

Cheers mate. When I did my rebuild I got normal doors. Peeled the skins off and got the frames plastic coated. Filled the frames with dinitrol, but my mistake was not keeping on top of the dinitrol. They've lasted 11 years. Front ones look good...

Cheers tottot, I'll check LR Parts out.

Hello mate. Got my front doors from SP. All fine there, perfect fit and came with locks and slam thingy. Didn’t get the galv ones. Decides to go down the route of paint and then sprayed the internals with dinitrol. Got my rear door from paintman...

My 1990 Ninety much the same, had it from nearly new as a working truck.[ three daughters learned to drive in it] I am now semi retired and its not worked as hard. Intend to keep it going as long as possible. @AI203, LR parts have a range of...

You have possible done every thing it is possible to do to limit corrosion there @dag019, short of moving to a dry desert. :D

I have done that with everything I have done to the 110. It has been my daily drive since I was 18, and having converted it to a station wagon for the growing family I intend to keep it as my daily drive for a long time yet. Therefore I do not...

Bloody hell, I wouldn't have expected that. When you say galvanised steel, do you mean galvanised steel skins, as well as the frames? Edit Just dawned on me that those skins must be steel to rust like that. Were they non galvanised skins?

I have not yet replaced the rear door yet. Am looking to buy one next month now I have gathered all the other parts. I didn’t get a definitive answer on Ali vs steel skin. But think I will go for Ali same as the original and the other doors. I...

Yes, as you and Simon above say. water completes the circuit, so must be that thrown up from below. Thanks for that, hadn't realised they even existed ! Have all the repair bits ordered now, so next job is to give a thorough clean underneath.

Looks good mate :) I found I couldn't fit my top shock bushes until I had some weight on the front to compress the springs a bit.

Evening All, It's been a while since I used the forum regularly and I'm out of touch a bit. I've just been Googling for galv doors and searched on the Forum. The main firms seem to be SP 4x4 and Shielder or am I missing a better one? I replaced...

Rear Tubular Seatbelt Bracket They do make them, so not such an issue as it was when I did mine.

I agree with what has been said about the tub, ie cleaning, plating and protecting the repairs. If you're not putting the rear seats back in I'd remove the tubular seat belt anchor tubes that drop from under the tub to the chassis, then get them...

I should read more words instead of concentrating on the pictures :)

That looks almost identical to mine, which I bought nearly twenty years ago. However, mine has metal tubes on the legs It hangs up in the garage roof when I'm not using it. Then these clamps go up through those tubes and clamp it to the gutter...

Taking the body off the chassis will reveal what's good to go back and what would better off being replaced. Things to consider, as your budget allows, and what conditions bits are in: Galvanised body cappings Galvanised inner sills Galvanised...

Cheers, its a 6 week lead time for Richards, still a bit 50/50 I think but you dont pay till its ready so I have ordered it ;)

Ah, sorry Julian. I was just saying some of the Defender 300Tdi's have flanged rear drive shafts, not that they will fit a salisbury diff. I've no experience of them, but from what I've read they are not interchangeable parts.

Mine is another vote for the chassis swap. Chances are the steel of the chassis rail behind the gearbox cross member flanges will be non existent, as well as all of the other holes you've already identified. As Hicap phill says, you're half way...

So for welding & make your life easier Take rear tub off. Take doors & bulkhead/wings off Carry on doing the above & your 1/2 way to a chassis swap. You know you will be chasing rust on the old chassis. Have you got space to change the...

Yeahh, thats what I am rapidly beginning to think tbh... I could probably repair this one but really, its 35 years old on a vehicle I already admit I will keep forever and I have the galvanised bulkhead ready. Yes have space and managed a bonus...

Mine is a 1996 300Tdi and mine has them on. According to the LR parts catalogue, they were used from VIN - LA930456 Here's one on Paddocks part number FTC3270. The near side is FTC3271

Well……I found the rattle. It was a strange noise, more like two pieces of sheet metal contacting each other rather than a heavy clatter. Anyway….the rattle came from the n/s front. By sheer luck I noticed that the shock absorber had no threads...

Cheers mate. Now that you mentioned it, I should have noticed they were blind rivets, and I just battered in and drilled them out without paying attention. Thanks for the heads up on that. I’m not going to buy those bottom runners though. I found...

If the bolt holes in the brackets for the panhard have worn over size that will also needs sorting or you are wasting your time just renewing bolts an bushes, had to sort the axle one on mine, rusted thin, worn oval.