U

uncle nick

Member
Hi all,
We’ve a 2005 Freelander TD4 with around 100,000 miles, pretty good condition for the year.
The clutch has gone which will be £1000 to fix.
I’d like advice on if it’s worth doing please?
Thanks.
 
Hi Nick.
To be honest if it is the original clutch then 100,000 miles is good, also at that mileage the engine as only just been run in really, if it has been serviced regular, i know of quite a few M47 engines that have done well over 250,000 and are still running great, one i know of having done 425,000 still on the same injectors only ever had supermarket fuel in it.

So yes it's worth getting the clutch done that is if you want to keep the FL1 it can also depend on what sort of condition the rest of the car is in only you know that? after all it works out £20 week for the year, which i would say most cars on the road would need at least that being paid out over the year anyways.

I presuming also at that price the Flywheel is also be changed, again at that mileage they usually don't need to be so that saves at least £300
 
Someone in the same boat earlier,might help you decide if diy☺️


www.landyzone.co.uk

Freelander 1 td4 clutch replacement (I hope)

OK here we go, in order to avoid the cost of a professional clutch replacement on the Mrs' 2003 "Free"lander which would be more than half the value of the car, I am about to undertake the task myself. I am aware that these bigger jobs are best done with a lift or pit, access to every possible...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
Last edited:
Arctic2 said:
Hi Nick.
To be honest if it is the original clutch then 100,000 miles is good, also at that mileage the engine as only just been run in really, if it has been serviced regular, i know of quite a few M47 engines that have done well over 250,000 and are still running great, one i know of having done 425,000 still on the same injectors only ever had supermarket fuel in it.

So yes it's worth getting the clutch done that is if you want to keep the FL1 it can also depend on what sort of condition the rest of the car is in only you know that? after all it works out £20 week for the year, which i would say most cars on the road would need at least that being paid out over the year anyways.

I presuming also at that price the Flywheel is also be changed, again at that mileage they usually don't need to be so that saves at least £300
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed reply.
We’ve had the car a couple of years and it’s been a brilliant workhorse. As far as I know, the rest of the car is ok, which is why I’m going around in circles with this. I’d guess it’s ‘worth’ around £1500 and we’ve had quotes for up to £1900 for the job, which does include the dmf.
I can’t help thinking it might be better to cut my losses but then a replacement could be more bother and expense, given a budget of up to £3k.
My head’s battered!
 
steve2286w said:
Someone in the same boat earlier, you , might help you decide if diy☺️


www.landyzone.co.uk

Freelander 1 td4 clutch replacement (I hope)

OK here we go, in order to avoid the cost of a professional clutch replacement on the Mrs' 2003 "Free"lander which would be more than half the value of the car, I am about to undertake the task myself. I am aware that these bigger jobs are best done with a lift or pit, access to every possible...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help Steve.
When the clutch first started slipping, I had a detailed read of that thread.
In theory, I’ve the tools etc to do it, but lack the confidence to do it (only clutch I’ve ever done was on an 1972 vw camper) and it’s bloody freezing outside!
 
uncle nick said:
Thanks for the detailed reply.
We’ve had the car a couple of years and it’s been a brilliant workhorse. As far as I know, the rest of the car is ok, which is why I’m going around in circles with this. I’d guess it’s ‘worth’ around £1500 and we’ve had quotes for up to £1900 for the job, which does include the dmf.
I can’t help thinking it might be better to cut my losses but then a replacement could be more bother and expense, given a budget of up to £3k.
My head’s battered!
Click to expand...

The cost of a new clutch including labour is around the £1,000 mark you first stated anyone over that i would steer clear of, in reality it's not worth worrying about what the car might be worth because other people may think different, at least if you keep it get the clutch done you know what you have in front of you, another one may cost you more, as you say decision can only be made by you.

Remembering with the clutch gone the car is not worth anything near the £1500 you have said above more like £450
 
when I bought my current FL1 TD4 5 years ago I had the clutch replaced as there was no service history (got it cheap !!), we have done 54.000 so far and the car has been brilliant, lovely to drive , a good solid dependable motor, hope to keep it for many more years, the original clutch release bearing/slave cylinder came out in 3 pieces ! so I made the right move getting it replaced
 
uncle nick said:
Hi all,
We’ve a 2005 Freelander TD4 with around 100,000 miles, pretty good condition for the year.
The clutch has gone which will be £1000 to fix.
I’d like advice on if it’s worth doing please?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yes!
If the engine has been looked after, then it’s most definitely worth saving. 100k miles is nothing. My FL1 is now my daughter’s daily driver - that has 150k on it and runs sweet.

Try not to think of how much the whole car is ‘worth’ in £££. (Most) cars depreciate. With a broken clutch, it’s currently worth not a lot sadly.
Think of it as simply 1k to fix up and keep your current car on the road for more years, vs spending much more and taking a gamble on something else unknown.
 
All of the clutch system on my 2005 TD4 is being replaced this week. £1700 to include all the hydraulics from pedal to plate, Bimass flywheel INCLUDING labour. All LUK parts. I am at just over 200,000 miles and I reasoned the following; the engines purrs and is serviced regularly. Last winter I fitted a super heavy duty battery so that should last a long time. I had to replace all of the driveshaft bearings this year and my alternator too. To buy another car at an affordable price will cost me similar and I would not have the peace of mind that the replacement vehicle has a reliable clutch let alone the reliability of the other parts.

The only downside for me is I cannot do the job myself for some very personal reasons. I'm nervous about entrusting the work to a non-LR familiar garage and I am in France. The LR familiar outfits are TOO busy to help for MONTHS. I am having to use an independent workshop but I figured that they can use a torque wrench like me etc. The time is quoted as 9.5 hours which is about right, so fingers crossed.

My clutch has been slipping for a LONG time through the Austrian alps and similar, but nursed with gentle throttle use. I considered coming to UK to the familiar specialists. If that is your choice, book your car in. It could be as early as mid-March when you can have the clutch changed. The logistics for an appointment are the biggest headache and if you cannot live with waiting, then you may decide to change the vehicle. But the TD4 without corrosion problems is a far better choice for the long term in my view.

Damn, I forgot I need new tyres... 😡
 
Good to know that the engines are good for high mileages.
Like 110tim, we got the car cheap as there wasn’t any history with it but it’s cost very little over the two years we’ve had it, just routine servicing really.
I’m going to get the garage to check it over before starting on the clutch and if anything nasty is found let me know before starting work.
Thanks to all for your input. 👍
 
My slave cylinder failed in November, and I bit the proverbial bullet and went for it - both cylinders, new clutch and DMF. All by LUK. £1700! Had some engine mounts done at the same time.
My reasoning was:
1. Scrap the FL and get pennies, then go and source another motor you know nothing about.
2. It’s mainly a workhorse and I’m not precious about it getting scratched, dented in the supermarket car park. Not that I want it looking like it’s been droned in Ukraine, and if I catch them, then the usual insurance rules apply.
3. It’s in very good nick for its 18 years and 156k - no issues with the VCU/ transmission (famous last words) although I haven’t done the OWUT.
4. No body wants to steal them.
5. I actually like it as a motor.
6. One more car recycled and kept going although the £415 VED is a bit of a downer…
👍🏻
 
But if you'd decided to buy a car for 3 grand, the clutch could have crapped out in 6 months anyway.

I never understand why people relate the cost of a repair to the value of the car - it needs to be compared to a REPLACEMENT car that's worth buying.

I think you made the right choice - maintain a car PROPERLY, and it can easily last twice as long as how an average person maintains a car.
 
That’s a very good point about comparing a repair cost to the price of a replacement car rather than the value of the current car.
If we were to change the car if would probably be a Freelander 2, so looking at £5k upwards I guess. Still spent less than that and a known vehicle.
The wheel bearing and 2 track rods ends are changed, plus tracking done for £300.
Now there’s a whine started which sounds to be from the front. 🙄
So I need to find a specialist for a diagnosis. A quick Google found Spanner Monkeys and Map 4x4, anyone used either of them?
 
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uncle nick said:
That’s a very good point about comparing a repair cost to the price of a replacement car rather than the value of the current car.
If we were to change the car if would probably be a Freelander 2, so looking at £5k upwards I guess. Still spent less than that and a known vehicle.
The wheel bearing and 2 track rods ends are changed, plus tracking done for £300.
Now there’s a whine started which sounds to be from the front. 🙄
So I need to find a specialist for a diagnosis. A quick Google found Spanner Monkeys and Map 4x4, anyone used either of them?
Click to expand...
A Whine from the engine or transmission? Does the sound change when revving or driving?
 
It sounds like transmission to me - changes with road speed and not present if not moving. It doesn’t sound like the ‘grumble’ of a wheel bearing but I don’t really know. One bearing was totally shot, maybe the other is going?
 
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