steve2286w

steve2286w

Well-Known Member
I got this for a couple of quid at the car boot, the terminals are marked + and -

The terminals are also insulated , I have the standard alternator on the series
Is it just a case of wiring it in series in one of the heavy brown wires to alternator
I’m a bit puzzled

090C9589-2C92-4837-B8F1-BB411807963E.jpeg
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ASSUMING SERIES 3 PETROL AS SERIES 1 AND 2 HAVE AMMETERS make sure the lamp fitted is 12 volt
SIII PETROL NORMAL FUSES NO RELAYS AMMETER FITMENT.png
and make sure the terminal are not going to foul against the bulkhead or other metal items if you heat shrink the threaded stud of the terminals after connection this will reduce any risk of contact with other items
 
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By the way which alternator do you have not many that only give out 30A.
The drawing above will only show what current your loads are taking will not show what is going into or out of battery.
 
I thought they were for DC systems and measured the voltage drop across a high-amperage capable shunt of a known resistance value.
 
you want to know what the going in and out of the battery a volt meter ( the output voltage your alternators is providing the battery with when the engine is running and what your battery state is when it not) you want to know whats amperage is being drawn by all your items other than the starter motor ammeter most modern alternator produces D.C by rectifying the output either internally or on older models a remote rectifier (4TR) the latest smart alternators use the ECU to control the charge rates and have the ability to disable it on engine starting and control the charge rate if the temperature of the battery varies ,colder the battery the better the charge rate etc
 
mystery said:
and make sure the terminal are not going to foul against the bulkhead or other metal items if you heat shrink the threaded stud of the terminals after connection this will reduce any risk of contact with other items
Click to expand...

Thanks mystery nice diagrams, have you produced these in cad a lot easier to read than the handbook ones
I found this wire / amp chart earlier




Blackburn said:
By the way which alternator do you have not many that only give out 30A.
The drawing above will only show what current your loads are taking will not show what is going into or out of battery.
Click to expand...

I have the Lucas 16 ACR putting out 34A but that would be A bit abnormal , I got it to keep my smiths oil pressure gauge company in the centre pod , if the pointer moves and it reads something half sensible that’s a bonus, I guess if it’s monitoring amps use on all the lights it could highlight if there was problems such as shorts ?
 

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As above, ammeter no real use with an alternator as it will push out mre than 30A when it needs to and knowing the amps won't tell you anything. Voltmeter is much more use as it tells you how the battery charge is going and if you turn on more than the alternator can match (it takes quite a lot) you will see the voltage drop. The otehr problem with an alternotr is that they are in-line with the load so they have to pas the whole supply - ok it goes through a shunt in the back, but its 4 connections you don't need each of which adds a resistance (cable to terminal, terminal to shunt, shunt to terminal, terminal to cable). If it fails everything stops. Volt meter is in parallel so it can fail and make no difference.
 
the man wants an ammeter just like some people require meters to tell them the angle is too steep what there boost pressure is ,tyre pressure ,hand brakes on ,diff's locked traction control abs ,smart alternators ecu's alarm modules bigger wheels height raising kits ,adjustable shocks, power steering etc need I say more if they fail everything stops life is full of great gadgets so each to his own.devices
mystery said:
you want to know what the going in and out of the battery a volt meter ( the output voltage your alternators is providing the battery with when the engine is running and what your battery state is when it not) you want to know whats amperage is being drawn by all your items other than the starter motor ammeter most modern alternator produces D.C by rectifying the output either internally or on older models a remote rectifier (4TR) the latest smart alternators use the ECU to control the charge rates and have the ability to disable it on engine starting and control the charge rate if the temperature of the battery varies ,colder the battery the better the charge rate etc
Click to expand...
 
50% of the gauge he has bought will never be used ie the -ve side.
Surely if you want to see the amps being used you would get one where the full scale can be used.
 
Blackburn said:
50% of the gauge he has bought will never be used ie the -ve side.
Surely if you want to see the amps being used you would get one where the full scale can be used.
Click to expand...

So it would show negative only when current is less than being produced if ammeter is on the alternator circuit, ?
I guess the red light helps inform problems here, as said before if it moves a bit and gives some info I’m happy

rob1miles said:
As above, ammeter no real use with an alternator as it will push out mre than 30A when it needs to and knowing the amps won't tell you anything.
Click to expand...

mystery said:
the man wants an ammeter just like some people require meters to tell them the angle is too steep what there boost pressure is ,tyre pressure ,hand brakes on ,diff's locked traction control abs ,smart alternators ecu's alarm modules bigger wheels height raising kits ,adjustable shocks, power steering etc need I say more if they fail everything stops life is full of great gadgets so each to his own.devices
Click to expand...
Nicely said

There’s a lot of weight behind using a voltmeter , and if I seen one one those at the car boot we’d prob be discussing how to fit one of those, I’m definitely more mechanical than electrical but in the diagram above it does not seem to me that it’s picking up alternator current just the lights and panel instruments? So im happy picking these amps up if there’s a short on them it may pick up increased amps , it might even shown less amps if headlamp blown
 
Despite my poo pooing the ammeter I'm rather partial to the odd useless gauge, (always quite fancied an altimeter) but the specific problem with ammeters is that they take the full current so they add connections that can and will get dirty and then get hot so they make the circuit less reliable. In mechnical terms an ammeter is like a flowmeter in the pipe, a voltmeter is like a pressure gauge on top.
 
don't forget not all ammeters are the same the modern types use a current transformer no physical connections so 100% reliable basically converts the current in to a voltage( yes a volt meter)
like i said the man likes gauges so do I ,not into electric steering electric hand brake ,self opening boot lids, lane steering radar ,anti collision braking ,hill descent ,corner enhanced steering aids ,
just like the good old series one and defenders specially when fitted with a v8 ,miss my very thirst v8 disco,nothing like the burble of a v8 it one downside the heat generated from the exhaust
warming the floor a nice cherry red on a long haul
 
Had a Daihatsu fourtrack that had a tilt meter on the dash so you could see what crazy angle you where at.
My current series 3 has extra temp gauge , oil pressure gauge and digital Voltmeter.
 
I have to fess up here; I bought an artificial horizon off a Lincoln or Mozzi at an auto jumble, its working order (but not certified) and only needs a vaccuum to work, I really want to find an excuse to fit it but its 5" dia and 6" deep, pity. My second option would be a Russian wind up tank clock, some are 50 mm but I think they have radioactive glow in the dark paint, shame.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSSIAN-...721548?hash=item341206988c:g:oNgAAOSwxuNdZiMF
Ammeters are for wimps.....;)
 
@mystery Thanks for help
Got round to fitting it today , still need bulk head fuse but works nicely , it’s picking up the lighting circuit and showing about 25A with front fogs , all lights with
D00E986E-9EC8-4524-A866-267AE86B33A6.jpeg
high beam and rear work light
 
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