I have been running my td5 since last May on 100% biodiesel (not veg oil).During the winter I have been adding 5% petrol to help stop waxing,although very few frosty starts so far,but do not want to be caught out.
No problem at all yet with the fuel other than saving money as my homebrew is homemade.The engine certainly runs quieter and smoother on bio,but that is probably due to its longer burn cycle and superior lubrication.
I would not risk commercial bio without testing its quality first.
No problem at all yet with the fuel other than saving money as my homebrew is homemade.The engine certainly runs quieter and smoother on bio,but that is probably due to its longer burn cycle and superior lubrication.
I would not risk commercial bio without testing its quality first.
That has also be talked about on LZ............ possible do a search
No but..:5bbeatdeadhorse5::5bbeatdeadhorse5: does get old. Go to PM with Biolandy as he is about the best on here on the subject. But a good source of clean drain oil is the best, then filters and a dryer to get the H2O out of it. But Biolandy has the best advice.
Go to Biolandys profile and go to his threads he started, he has 3 on the subject
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/biodiesel-have-you-do-you-any-problems-bio-190581.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/biodiesel-have-you-do-you-any-problems-bio-190581.html
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Not to doubt biolandys knowledge or experience but worth plenty of reading as there sre mixed opinions.
Happy reading
Happy reading
Not to doubt biolandys knowledge or experience but worth plenty of reading as there are mixed opinions.
Happy reading
Fixed for you removed the s and added the a
I would not recommend anyone to put biodiesel in their car,especially as it does seem to be frowned on in td5's and newer common rail systems.Having said that though,there is much mis- information about biodiesel from the major car manufacturers and "what some bloke said down the pub".
For me,I make homemade biodiesel period.
My td5 is my new "bio project" and thus far no issue.But only time will tell,it is my daily driving vehicle.I use around 100 to 150 lts a month.
I do however have a mate on one of the bio forums who is two years in on bio in a td5 (14000 miles) and thus far he has only had to replace the in tank pump,but these seem to fail on dino diesel anyway,so hard to know if the bio was a factor as it was original pump and old.
I monitor my sump oil level regularly as I expect sooner or later the injector "o" rings to give way and need replacing with Viton rubber (viton is bio proof).Bio is a very aggressive solvent on rubber and some plastics.It chewed the leak off pipes on my old 300tdi,but only pennies to replace.A worse 300 tdi experience was when bio destroyed the injection pump shaft seal,letting bio onto the cambelt which it also noshed.I got away with no bust rockers or bent valves.Fitted a new viton shaft seal and new cambelt and was good ever after.I do all my own repairs so no garage bills.
The savings I make (bio costs me 15p per litre all in to make) have so far out weighed any repairs I have had to carry out.
The only cost so far on the td5 is one fuel filter I changed after the first two brims of bio-it did not need replacing,but just did it for best practice and as a fresh start for its life on bio.
For me,I make homemade biodiesel period.
My td5 is my new "bio project" and thus far no issue.But only time will tell,it is my daily driving vehicle.I use around 100 to 150 lts a month.
I do however have a mate on one of the bio forums who is two years in on bio in a td5 (14000 miles) and thus far he has only had to replace the in tank pump,but these seem to fail on dino diesel anyway,so hard to know if the bio was a factor as it was original pump and old.
I monitor my sump oil level regularly as I expect sooner or later the injector "o" rings to give way and need replacing with Viton rubber (viton is bio proof).Bio is a very aggressive solvent on rubber and some plastics.It chewed the leak off pipes on my old 300tdi,but only pennies to replace.A worse 300 tdi experience was when bio destroyed the injection pump shaft seal,letting bio onto the cambelt which it also noshed.I got away with no bust rockers or bent valves.Fitted a new viton shaft seal and new cambelt and was good ever after.I do all my own repairs so no garage bills.
The savings I make (bio costs me 15p per litre all in to make) have so far out weighed any repairs I have had to carry out.
The only cost so far on the td5 is one fuel filter I changed after the first two brims of bio-it did not need replacing,but just did it for best practice and as a fresh start for its life on bio.
Nigel-S
soft and furry
Now that chippies have cottoned on to the fact that used oil is worth money (or at least they have in these parts) I wonder is it actually worth the trouble of making your own fuel? As for using it in a TD5, of the 2 cases I know of, one engine lasted 6 months and the other 12 months. After spending a few grand buying the vehicle, is it not worth putting the proper fuel in it? I wouldn't take the risk but good luck to those that do
Now that chippies have cottoned on to the fact that used oil is worth money (or at least they have in these parts) I wonder is it actually worth the trouble of making your own fuel? As for using it in a TD5, of the 2 cases I know of, one engine lasted 6 months and the other 12 months. After spending a few grand buying the vehicle, is it not worth putting the proper fuel in it? I wouldn't take the risk but good luck to those that do
Curious to know what the apparent failure was and the bio quality-my sunroof leaks sometimes,Land Rover would blame that on bio use.
Facts rather than heresay would be good.
My oil comes free,otherwise I would not bother.
Current fuel savings since May at 100 lts month, assuming dino diesel is £1.40 lt(don't buy it so not sure on price) =£1125 .
Reckon to save about £3k a year between my mondeo tdci and td5 combined.I accept the risks,but so far so good.
If I get 2 yrs from my td5 it has paid for itself
