W

WorcsSimon

New Member
Does anyone know how to get a stuck wheel off.
I've obviously removed the bolts :)
I tried a piece of wood across the bolts and G clamps through the wheel openings to the back ok the wheel to act as a puller but no joy. Although I couldn't get much force on them. Tried lowering the car slackening the bolts 1/4 turn then turning the steering still nothing.
The wheel did get very hot recently when (I'm assuming) the brake was rubbing. But I can't tell as I can't get the wheel off to look.
Being only alloy, could it have welded itself to the hub?
Even tried giving the bolts a tap with hammer, desperation setting in...
Feel a bit silly not being able to get a wheel off. Anyone any ideas? please.
 
I always use a 4ft wrecking bar between the hub and back of wheel to act as a lever..... Never not got a wheel off using this method, I prefer it to using a hammer ;)
 
Hi Simon

I am in Worcester. Need a hand? The heat might have caused seizing and even bonding but can but have a look.
 
They can be very stiff, lots of wiggling required and maybe a rubber mallet on the back of the tyre, worked for me last week, anyone would think the alloys weren't meant for the motor in the first place!
 
Could you try a piece of wood braced against the opposite wheel or convenient solid point on the body, and then use a second jack between that wood and the stuck wheel?

Pete
 
Common problem. Guessing its a rear wheel? The shape of the face of the drum allows the corrosion with the alloy to fuse together. Make sure it's jacked safely and hit the inside of alloy with a mallet. If its safely jacked have the handbrake off and rotate the wheel as you hit it.
 
Can't really add anything for getting the wheel off, but when putting it back on put some copperslip on the hub/ back of the wheel.
 
loosen nuts (bolts) and drive slowly with someone walking by the side. as soon as the wheel frees, jack, remove, copperslip and refit to get home.
 
Despite plenty copper grease I still get this 'stuck-on' problem every time - but only with the front wheels. And that's with me swaping the wheels round every 5K to even the tread-wear for the benefit of the VCU. :(

I just slacken them a turn each and give the tyre a good whack at the bottom with a sledge hammer using a plank of wood to spread the load.

Mad Hat Man's method should work too of course.

Good luck.

Singvogel.
 
Post no. 2 works every time for me! Beating it with a hammers is hard work and can do lots of damage
 
I usually kick one side of the tyre then the other if the wheel is stuck .

Looking back at the first post , it doesn't say he jacked the vehicle first . Who knows , some people are stupid beyond belief .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

chemmie
Rear wheel hub adventures
Replies
12
Views
1K
chemmie
chemmie
T
Clunk then no stability control
Replies
5
Views
603
Arctic2
Arctic2
B
FL2 - anyone have 4 wheel bolts spare?
Replies
4
Views
412
Buel10
B
MonkeyLander
Getting AT tyres, best wheel size?
Replies
5
Views
557
Arctic2
Arctic2
J
FL1 Rear washer
Replies
4
Views
618
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel