J

jrose1

New Member
Hi again,

Well it wasn't long till I had my first question! I got my Series 3 home, and noticed the rear passenger side wheel had been spraying out oil, over the wheel and tyre. Looking through this site, it appears I need a new seal which costs about 50p - can someone tell me if this sounds correct please?

I also assume it's fairly easy to do, I have a pdf called LAnd Rover Series 3 CD Rom part 5, in this it describes changing the oil seal (Operation 64.15.15). Am I wrong?

Thank you very much
 
Yeah it is likely to be the hub seal - it is an easy job, just quite messy!

Edit: while you are it you may as well make sure the wheel bearings are in good condition
 
Yeah there are other variants but that will fit. If that is the only thing you are ordering though I would suggest you put that part number in ebay - might be cheaper when you include shipping.
 
that'll be the one, ours had to be done not so long back, right messy job as rusty says:rolleyes: might want to get yourself a new outer gasket while you're at it part 231505, cos you can be sure the old one will be an oily disintegrated mess!!
 
cheers everyone! part is ordered, when it arrives should be easy to fit (i hope)

one more question - I'm sure I need to put some more oil in somewhere to top up the stuff that currently adorns the wheel - this thread says EP90 oil, is that correct? And where do I pour it into the thing?

thanks a lot
Joe
 
You haven't said where the oil is coming from. If it's spraying out all over the inside of your wheel and tyre from the brake drum then the problem is going to be either the hub oil seal (probably RTC3510 depedant on model) or the oil could possibly be brake fluid. If the oil is spraying out over the outside of your wheel then it's possible you've got a problem with the hub flange gasket (part no: 231505), or the hub flange bolts have come loose, or perhaps the drive shaft spline seal RTC3515 needs replacing. If it's the oil is coming from the hub flange gasket area then when you take it to bits ensure that the mating faces are flat because people often damage them with chisels. You'll need a new split pin for the castellated nut on the driveshaft whatever you do. If you're replacing the hub oil seal then you should get a replacement locking washer (part no: 217353). Often the surface which the oil seal runs on is pitted, but luckily it can be replaced (probably part no: 599698 dependant on model). In order to change the hub oil seal and do a propper job you need a very large box spanner to for the locknuts). It's also worth checking the state of the bearings by jacking up that side of the vehicle and checking for play, and roughness when you spin the wheel. If I were you I'd strip it all down and find out exactly what you need.
 
Here, this may help:-

Hubs Inspection, Maintenance & Overhaul

You shouldn't have 'oil' spraying out, the hubs should be packed with grease, EP90- would be coming from the axle tube, normally leak would be at the drive flange, but that's on the out-side of the wheel, so only other joint that could leak would be the stub axle gasket, unless, as suggested its a drum brake wheel cylinder seal 'gone' and its actually brake fluid...

Anyway, link offers photo 'how to' of a full hub strip right back to the stub axle;

Renewal of drum brake cylinder, unfortunately is an article that's currently 'work in Progress', but if it's the brakes, giz a shout.
 
Teflon said:
Here, this may help:-

Hubs Inspection, Maintenance & Overhaul

You shouldn't have 'oil' spraying out, the hubs should be packed with grease, EP90- would be coming from the axle tube, normally leak would be at the drive flange, but that's on the out-side of the wheel, so only other joint that could leak would be the stub axle gasket, unless, as suggested its a drum brake wheel cylinder seal 'gone' and its actually brake fluid...

Anyway, link offers photo 'how to' of a full hub strip right back to the stub axle;

Renewal of drum brake cylinder, unfortunately is an article that's currently 'work in Progress', but if it's the brakes, giz a shout.
Click to expand...

hi tef,just had a look on your site,very impressed mate.well done.;)
 
EP 90 from the axle has a poo like smell, quite strong, you'd probably smell it when you get up close to the hub, where as brake fluid does not stink at all hardly.
Have a sniff round the leak, make sure noone's watching first.
 
Another good tip - make sure your axle breather is clear, could be blocked, pressurising the axle casing forcing oil out of the flange gasket, or even into the wheel hubs... ect ect...
 
leak would be at the drive flange, but that's on the out-side of the wheel, so only other joint that could leak would be the stub axle gasket,
Click to expand...

Another good tip - make sure your axle breather is clear, could be blocked, pressurising the axle casing forcing oil out of the flange gasket, or even into the wheel hubs...
Click to expand...

I have noticed my rear wheel is leaknig from the inside of the wheel - quite a lot actually! Are the 2 above things the only which could cause this? My initial thought was stub axle, so thinking of ordering a stub axle and stub axle gasket. Or am I going down the wrong path?
 
rustyrhinos said:
I have noticed my rear wheel is leaknig from the inside of the wheel - quite a lot actually! Are the 2 above things the only which could cause this? My initial thought was stub axle, so thinking of ordering a stub axle and stub axle gasket. Or am I going down the wrong path?
Click to expand...

Sounds like the right thing to do If ya stub axle is ok you can always keep the new one as a spare. But I'd get a seal anorl.
 
Cool. Not sure what I would be looking for to determine if the stub axle needed replacing hence thinking so id, as I was taking it off anyway, would be worth replacing.
 
rustyrhinos said:
Cool. Not sure what I would be looking for to determine if the stub axle needed replacing hence thinking so id, as I was taking it off anyway, would be worth replacing.
Click to expand...

You'd be looking for signs of scoring on the shaft or excessive wear/ovality unlikely unless the bearing have been badly worn or have seized on the shaft.
 
Okies. Bearings unlikely to be seized or badly worn - they were in good condition when I replaced the hub seal not long ago. Unless I did something wrong when I put it back together of course!
 
You may realize this, but if the surface which the hub seal runs on is scored or pitted, then that by itself is not a reason to replace the stub axle because the surface which the seal runs on is a replaceable collar. The parts of the stub axle of which the bearings are in contact could be damaged which could make it impossible to eliminate play in the wheelbearings without excessively preloading the bearings..
 
fenby1976 said:
that by itself is not a reason to replace the stub axle because the surface which the seal runs on is a replaceable collar. ..
Click to expand...
Think that is only true of earlier axles, later ones had ine piece stubs.
Not sure when the change was, but think it was late sII or early SIII
 
You can buy repair sleeves for oil seals, not as a landy spare, federal mogul do them for industry in just about every size, you'd be better changing the stub if its knacked though.
 
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