julianf

Well-Known Member

• Mar 1, 2016

• #1

Ive just spent some time getting the crank sprocket off the engine.

There is some ware around the shoulder where it meets the oil seal. In the photo below, the ware looks like dark lines on the shoulder. These can be felt with my fingernail.

Now replacing the sprocket and the seal is one thing, but is this just standard, age-related, ware, or is this an indication of excessive crank run-out?


Second - the crank o-ring (as opposed to the main oil seal) -

Its too dark out now, but i assume it sits in the recess on the internal face in the shot below, and that, on mine, it must still be in the engine, caught behind the keys? (which, i assume, it has to be stretched over to get into place when replacing)

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Mar 1, 2016

• #2

normally you fit o ring before keys ,but it should stretch over
pulley doesnt look to show and excess endfloat, try refitting pulley and pull pushing to see what there is

 

julianf

Well-Known Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #3

Strangely, i did not notice the key-way damage in the photo above, but, when i took a better look at the part removed, i saw this -

Ill have a look at the key in the crank when i get home - i hope its not in as much of a mess as the key-way.

If the keyway in the crank itself it as damaged as that, i think i may be in for some bother.

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #4

jamesmartin said:

normally you fit o ring before keys ,but it should stretch over
pulley doesnt look to show and excess endfloat, try refitting pulley and pull pushing to see what there is

Click to expand...

Agreed.

If the key has any sharp edges, then instead of removing it, you can cover the key with a piece of tape before stretching the O-ring over it.
( not likely, but, having seen the broached slot in your pulley... well..... )

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #5

julianf said:

If the keyway in the crank itself it as damaged as that, i think i may be in for some bother.

Click to expand...

I suspect you might be right ! - possibly more than bit, too, sadly.

 

julianf

Well-Known Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #6

I think i may be in luck! (which seems like a rare thing when it comes to old landrovers)

Just uploading photos now, but -

On first glance of the key, i thought "Ughh... someone's wedged something down the side of the key, as the keyway [in the crank] has been expanded"

..but then i realised that the thing down the side was actually the key, and its the top of the key that has been ground away (by the sprocket)

So, i think that, if i manage to get out the old key, put a new one in, i should be good (i hope).

The box is in 5th at the moment, as ive got the timing belt off, but, by hand, i can feel no movement at all in the crank - not even the usual click that you get with bearings on the bench.

 

julianf

Well-Known Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #7

Right - its not easy to see in the photo, but the top of the key is about 2/3 the width that it should be, and on the right hand side of the top is, what looks like, a shim in the key way. This, im sure, is the base of the key, where the top has been worn away.

How to get the thing out though, i dont know! I guess get a chissel under the front edge, but my fear then is it flying off into the engine (dont know enough to know if thats a possibility or not?)

 

julianf

Well-Known Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #8

Better photo (?) -

I assume both keys started out at the same width.

 

chrisstdt

Well-Known Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #9

stuff a rag in the hole and both keys should come out without too much force ,be careful not to mark the crank with the chisel !! hopefully your lucky and they crank itself is ok

Front key looks to have a bit missing so a pair of genuine keys ,a new sprocket ,o ring and seal should sort that

 

julianf

Well-Known Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #10

this is the photo that isnt loading above -

 

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

• Mar 2, 2016

• #11

Get a set of new keys and pulley in there and it should run a lot smoother as the cam and FIP timing wont be changing as you are driving along.