GingerPuss

Active Member
Hi all,

I went to look at a 4.6 HSE for sale today. The test drive went well - and everything seemed to be working. I then decided to check if the low range was working - parked up, I moved the selector to the left and a warning sound started with a yellow/amber warning icon lit up (2 meshing gears with a big X superimposed on them) for every position except 'P'. The salesman thinks it is just lack of use - but I walked away assuming there was a fault with the box. Was I right?

Cheers
Mark
 
Did you wait for a few seconds for the transfer of drive ratio to take place before selecting D or other drive gear?

The P38....you select Neutral, foot on brake, move lever across...bells and whitles, flashing light....wait a few seconds and LOW RANGE 9or HIGH RANGE whichever way you are going!) comes up on the dash, bells and whistle stop....then select a drive gear and off she goes....

If she takes a while or the bells and whistles don't stop, the Transfer Motor is probably U/S...not a major job, or the ECU is fried because the Transfer Motor is U/S....again not a huge task at all.

They do stiffen up through lack of use, hence why I would advocate anyone with a P38 to select ratios at least once a month to keep things lubed....
 
Did you wait for a few seconds for the transfer of drive ratio to take place before selecting D or other drive gear?

The P38....you select Neutral, foot on brake, move lever across...bells and whitles, flashing light....wait a few seconds and LOW RANGE 9or HIGH RANGE whichever way you are going!) comes up on the dash, bells and whistle stop....then select a drive gear and off she goes....

If she takes a while or the bells and whistles don't stop, the Transfer Motor is probably U/S...not a major job, or the ECU is fried because the Transfer Motor is U/S....again not a huge task at all.

They do stiffen up through lack of use, hence why I would advocate anyone with a P38 to select ratios at least once a month to keep things lubed....

Thanks Saint,
Once I moved across to Low range Neutral, the sounds and warning light started but didn't stop (until I moved it back across to high range). I did wait several seconds. The previous owner had also wired a separate coolant sensor - with a button on the dash that bleeped if there was water in the expansion tank. Apparently he had problems with water loss and overheating before.
 
Thanks Saint,
Once I moved across to Low range Neutral, the sounds and warning light started but didn't stop (until I moved it back across to high range). I did wait several seconds. The previous owner had also wired a separate coolant sensor - with a button on the dash that bleeped if there was water in the expansion tank. Apparently he had problems with water loss and overheating before.

That to me is a warning sign of possible poor maintenance.
 
That to me is a warning sign of possible poor maintenance.

Or of someone who actually cares about and understands the car and wants to avoid a future problem. I've just installed something similar in my car because I don't want a future overheating problem. I find it ridiculous that the car has an audible and visual warning for low screenwash, but nothing for low coolant. My Classic has a coolant level warning, and I have no idea why this was deleted in the P38.
 
Or of someone who actually cares about and understands the car and wants to avoid a future problem. I've just installed something similar in my car because I don't want a future overheating problem. I find it ridiculous that the car has an audible and visual warning for low screenwash, but nothing for low coolant. My Classic has a coolant level warning, and I have no idea why this was deleted in the P38.

It would help in the convenience stakes but ultimately, if you're running an RR you should be looking under the bonnet relatively frequently just make sure all is okay.

I'm only 34 but even I have always checked my fluid levels on a regular basis on all the cars I've had (quite a few) - it should be common practice in my opinion!
 
Whilst that's true, a leak can spring at any time, most likely when the engine is hot. So how do you mitigate the circumstance where you check the fluid in the morning, drive off, get a leak and the next thing you know the head's cooked? Or do you stop at every motorway service area to check the fluid?
 
To be honest that sounds bloody brilliant. I always thought it was weird that there are no sensors for oil and coolant, yet it will beep your brains out if your washer fluid is a little low.
Any details on how the sensor was mounted up?

The transfer box probably just needs a new motor, or just to be cleaned up a bit. When they're never used they tend to get stuck, or so I'm told.
 

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