Hi guys

I'm dealing with an intemittent problem with the ignition circuit (I hope).

I've replaced the coil, condensor, plugs, leads, cap and so on, but every now and then she just dies.

There was a fire a while back and some of the wiring was damaged but most gauges work etc. I had to get the headlamps rewired but all seems well. The dashboard lights don't work, and if you flick them on, the indicator lights (on the dash) illuminate, the temp gauge rises slowly, the main beam light illuminates slightly, so clearly there are "earth" issues.

As a test and temporary measure and a fail safe get me home method I want to create a by pass wire with a built in switch from the battery to the low tension connection on the coil, to see if there is a fault in the ignition wiring at the dash. One of my pals warns me that there may be a Ballast Resistor somewhere that reduces the voltage to the coil and I may risk damaging the points.

Do any of you guys know if there is one? Or are we assuming that LR are sophisticated enough in 1972 to fit one?

Cheers chaps

As far as i know coils are designed to work on 12V so you should be ok.

Does the Haynes maual not show if a ballast resistor is fitted ?
The idea is that the coil normally runs at about 9 volts but while the engine is being cranked over the battery voltage drops and so the resistor is bypassed enabling as high a voltage as possible to hit the coil. as soon as the starter switch is released then the resistor is included in the circuit and the coil runs at a lower voltage.
Although I have not tried it. I would think that if you measured the battery volts with the engine at tickover and then measured the low tension side of the coil the voltage should be roughly the same.
If a Ballast resistor is fitted then the reading at the coil should be a couple of volts lower.