RJull · Feb 25, 2016

Hi all,
I now have a Freelander 55 plate, it has 150k mileage and is showing classic coupling issues, fall lock going slowly forward or reverse feels like handbrake is on and has a judder when pulling away.

It drives great, really smooth, no smoking etc etc.

Now I have done some research on here and Internet, I am semi skilled(!!) and can tackle suspension, brake pads but not anything to technical. I am looking a buying a complete new unit with bearings and my question is, is it a straight forward unbolt / rebolt? Or do I need to be mindful of ensuring all stays lined up, spindles in the right slot.... Sorry if it sounds a dumb question to ask but seems a shame to pay a garage when I have all the jacks, axle stands etc at home.

Also, can anyone recommend a company to purchase the coupling from?

Any advice appreciated

Rob

GrumpyGel · Feb 25, 2016

Yeh, the props tend to go back on without any issues. Some people have experienced some vibration once installed and I'm sure people have corrected this by just reseating the support brearing (to the car) or just turning the props 1/4 turn on the flanges (although in theory that shouldn't matter I'm sure it has had results).

The props can be a hard work to split from the VCU - patience and/or swearing helps I believe.

Take good photos before you strip the VCU/bearings off - the dust covers/plates don't necessarily go on the way round that you'd think, so some photos give you a reference to work from.

I'm confident what I've said is OK. I've taken props off and reinstalled them before fine, and its quite a common task. I've not split the VCU off yet, so those comments are from what others have said on here.

htr · Feb 25, 2016

I replaced my late last year so + 1 to the above, especially the swearing!

RJull · Feb 25, 2016

Thanks for the quick replies.

Also, if I get problems, can I still drive it in 2wd with the prop off?

GrumpyGel · Feb 25, 2016

RJull said:
Thanks for the quick replies.

Also, if I get problems, can I still drive it in 2wd with the prop off?

Yes you can. Only issues are whether its legal to where you live as the car can be seen as modified. You may need to tell your insurance co.

Arctic2 · Feb 26, 2016

Hi Rob.
Make sure you have a couple of extra axle stands to lower the front and rear propshafts onto, so six would be good four to raise the FL, once you have the car in the air first loosen off the VCU bearings about 1/2" four bolts in total, next start at the rear undo the prop from the diff lower it onto one of the extra axle stands, then do the front one this is torx you will also need a ring spanner.

If you can try and get someone too help when you lower the VCU down as it is quite difficult on your own, if you are on your own use some support ie blocks of wood maybe, you can also mark the props to diff and front box with a spot of paint for realignment when re-fitting if need be I change both my shafts and VCU at the same time, but as you can see in the pics below I still marked the old shafts just in case I needed to reuse them for some reason.

Once you have the VCU and shafts off the car you can then part them quite easy really, also a link below as to where to buy a new GKN VCU etc a member sorted his out recently but as yet to report back how it went cheers Arctic.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcu-place-to-buy.295635/#post-3693355

GrumpyGel · Feb 26, 2016

I found a different method to that suggested by Arctic2. As Arctic2 implied by using axle stands to lift the car, raising it helps give access. My preferred method though is to drive it onto blocks, 1 side should be sufficient. You can then get under and remove the bolts on the rear diff & IRD that you have access to (ie the lower ones). You can then push the car long the blocks a bit - this turns the prop so you can get back underneath and do the remaining ones.

As Arctic2 says, you can then lower the prop ends onto axle stands, or anything that keeps them raised a bit so as to not over extend the UJs (eg 1 ot mor wooden blocks). I then put a trolly jack under the VCU, remove its 4 mounting bolts and lower on the jack. 1 person can then lower it the last few inches off the jack - but it is heavy and cumbersome being attached to the props.

RJull · Feb 26, 2016

Well, after a few choice words, prop is off and the vcu is separated. Front prop was difficult to separate, but a grease and a bar helped.

Took for a drive and handles better no juddering, binding (I know it's only in 2wd so will be different)

Used axle stands to support each end and removed vcu last onto another stand so could control as on my own.

Thanks all for you help

Arctic2 · Feb 27, 2016

Hi Rob.
nice to hear you got sorted, like Grumpygel I too used ramps etc but not all members have ramps but most would have axle stands or could borrow some

RJull · Feb 28, 2016

OK, whilst I am under the car refitting vcu and prop, is it worth changing the oil in the ird? Anyone got a link to a how to? Had a quick search and not found a diffinitive guide.

Thanks

guineafowl21 · Feb 28, 2016

guineafowl21 · Feb 28, 2016

The drain and fill plugs are pretty obvious on the back of the IRD. Crack open the fill first, so you know you can refill the box, before you drain it!

GrumpyGel · Feb 28, 2016

It is probably worth changing the oil - its quite simple:

1) Remove Fill plug - important to do it first so you know it comes off - use a 6 sided socket, they are very soft.
2) Remove drain plug and drain oil. Check colour of oil - it its greyish - it indicates the beatings have worn. Even with a good IRd you will get some 'fur' on the magnetised top of the drain plug.
3) Reinstall drain plug - not sure if a new washer is required, I haven't.
4) Fill with oil using something like an oil syringe/pump until oil overflows fill hole.
5) Reinstall fill plug.

I forget which is the correct oil, it has been discussed on here - a search should find it.

RJull · Feb 28, 2016

Thanks for the oil spec, anyone got a pic showing the fill / drain plugs?

guineafowl21 · Feb 28, 2016

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&s...4bU_sqrfqwegAq7eFw&ust=1456778779053444&rct=j

Filler arrowed, drain to left of 'H'.

RJull · Feb 28, 2016

Perfect thanks

htr · Feb 29, 2016

fill plug removal - use a 19mm single hex socket. A st'd socket will round it off and yes they are very very tight!

RJull · Mar 13, 2016

Ok guys, been away so only just got round to changing oil in transfer box. See pics below, some metal fragment, nothing big, do you think I should be concerned ? I am running it without the prop in 2wd with no knock etc from box

Nodge68 · Mar 13, 2016

Are the metal fragments magnetic? They look like something left behind from the manufacturing process to me.
Was the oil grey or was it just dirty black.

RJull · Mar 14, 2016

Not magnetic, plug had some furring / sludge nothing major, yes metal, they looked like ali shavings, oil was dark but look in reasonable clean condition...

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