G

gareth123

Active Member
Well I had another look underneath this afternoon afer speaking to Bells (VCU and bearings came from them a year ago) and was told the cause of vibration was unlikely to be the carrier bearings as they tend to get noisy and vibrate at all speeds when worn. I get vibration 50 mph plus and then it goes away about 70mph and is more noticeable on decelleration. I was adviced to check all the prop joints carefully. In doing so I noticed the play I thought was coming from the rear mount carrier bearing was in fact due to the propshaft - VCU bolt being not tight enough. I fixed that, went for a drive and still have the vibrations. I then had a look at the rear UJ next to the diff and found there is play in that when I twist it - quite a lot in fact so that is probably the cause of the problem. How easy is it to repalce the UJ at home or is it best for a garage with proper vices and tools? If I try doing it myself can I just take off the rear prop from the VCU back or will the whole prop need to come down, VCU and all? I remember the rear prop came off the VCU quite easily when I had the whole lot off last year but it may be difficult to separate in situ?

Thanks

Gareth
 
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I had exactly the same symtoms.
It was 120k on first VCU (AFAIK) so got refurbed VCU and new bearings, no more symptoms.
 
Thanks - but I fitted a refurb VCU and bearings a year ago which seem to be fine. This new problem started 8k miles after these had been fitted. Hence the need to seek out other causes - which I think I have found, the rear UJ. My quesion is about how easy is this to diy replace.
 
Need some circlip pliers, a socket and vice. You can do it with a g clamp if you don't have a vice. Or a hammer if your carefull. Lots of vids on YouTube. I have a spare gkn uj if you need
 
Kizzeh said:
Need some circlip pliers, a socket and vice. You can do it with a g clamp if you don't have a vice. Or a hammer if your carefull. Lots of vids on YouTube. I have a spare gkn uj if you need
Click to expand...

Thanks - I think I have a G clamp somewhere. Do you reckon I can do it under the car if I just drop the rear prop off the diff (I have some decent ramps). The offer of a GKN joint is very kind but I live in France which is extra hassle for you. I will pay postage if you are able to send it - and of course for the part itself. Thanks again
 
To separate the propshaft from the VCU in-situ would be awkward given that the tab washer has to be bent back and the propshaft held horizontal in order to get the spanner on the head of the propshaft retaining bolt.
Much less cussin and quicker if you just drop the complete assembly and remove the propshaft on the bench. I would also use a vice to fit the new bearings.
 
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Thanks! I think you are right and I would just get grumpy and mad trying to do it all under the car! Sometimes short cuts are long cuts...!
 
Hi thanks
I am going to invest in a vice and wonder what size it needs to be - maximum open. I would prefer something that fits onto my workmate with a screw mechanism ( like old fashioned meat mincers) but these are generally small. If anyone can give me a size I need that would be helpful! Thanks

Gareth
 
I would go for one with 6" (150mm) wide jaws which will cover most jobs and drill a couple of holes in the top of the workmate to attach it with. This will allow the propshaft tube to be securely gripped. It will also open wide enough to accept the propshaft yokes and allow you to squeeze the bearing cups in.
Because of the length of overhang and weight of the assembly, get some suitable support for the propshaft etc. so that it is kept almost horizontal.
Removal of the joint and bearings is a bit brutal !! Use a copper faced hammer to knock them apart.
"Busterbus" did a good write up on the procedure some time ago and it is in the "How to" section of the main forum page.
Good Luck :)
 
Irishrover said:
I would go for one with 6" (150mm) wide jaws which will cover most jobs and drill a couple of holes in the top of the workmate to attach it with. This will allow the propshaft tube to be securely gripped. It will also open wide enough to accept the propshaft yokes and allow you to squeeze the bearing cups in.
Because of the length of overhang and weight of the assembly, get some suitable support for the propshaft etc. so that it is kept almost horizontal.
Removal of the joint and bearings is a bit brutal !! Use a copper faced hammer to knock them apart.
"Busterbus" did a good write up on the procedure some time ago and it is in the "How to" section of the main forum page.
Good Luck :)
Click to expand...

Excellent - thank you. I will get the bits and have a go when the sun next comes out. Thanks again.

Gareth
 
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