hello there, i am a new freelander owner, so i need lots of help please!!!!

my auto box is slipping badly, its ok from 1st to 2nd but slips in 3rd,4th and 5th. i am going to change oil,but does any one know anything about this subject!! also i have a very dirty inlet and vaccum valve(is this the egr valve that people are talking about?


any response would be grateful, thanks!

p.s ming if your out there i belive you were recently talking about the egr vavle any new info on this subject?

Well troy is ya gearbox slippin or droppin down for no reason, need ta know this. . .

if yu got the Jatco box - its a bloody nightmare.
the level plug is underneath - if you undo the wrong bolt it buggers the gearbox and yu shd only check levels with the 'box oil temp between 35 and 45C. using the diagnostic kit.

Take great care

Thanks for the replies! In replie to ming , the gear box is definantly slipping as it goes well from first to second, but when it goes up from that it slips badly, also i have noticed that when i use the manual step it is fine in 2nd< but when i put it in 3rd,It does engage but slips badly.
In replie to the mad hat guy, i am not sure what box i have( i will find out!)
but yesterday i found out how to change the oil and how to check the oil level, but could not carry out oil change as dealer was closed and no one else stocks the oil. is there any substitue for this type of oil? i have heard it is exspensive! thanks for the response guys!

To my knowledge, the only Auto box is the Jatco box - so good luck!!!!

CAPACITIES, FLUIDS, LUBRICANTS AND SEALANTS
Lubrication
The engine and other lubricating systems are filled
with high- performance lubricants giving prolonged
life.
CAUTION: Always use a high quality oil of the
correct viscosity range in the engine. The use of
oil of the incorrect specification can lead to high
oil and fuel consumption and ultimately to
damaged components.
Oil to the correct specification contains additives
which disperse the corrosive acids formed by
combustion and prevent the formation of sludge
which can block the oil ways. Additional oil additives
should not be used.
Always adhere to the recommended servicing
intervals.
Engine oil
Engine oil viscosity / temperature ranges are
indicated in the following table:
a 0W-30; 5W30 - Td4 engines
b 0W-40, 50, 60; 5W-40, 50, 60 - all engine types
c 10W-30
d 10W-40, 50, 60
* Note: KV6 NAS - Use 0W-40, 5W-40, 5W-50
Engine oil &#8211; Td4 engine
Use a 5W/30 or 5W/40 oil meeting ACEA B3
specifications, and having a viscosity band
recommended for the temperature range of your
locality. Where oils to these European specifications
are not available, well known brands of oils meeting
API SH quality should be used.
Engine oil &#8211; K1.8 engine
Use a 0W/40, 5W/40 or 5W/50 oil meeting
specification ACEA A1, A2 or A3 and having a
viscosity band recommended for the temperature
range of your locality.
Engine oil &#8211; KV6 engine &#8211; Non NAS models
Use a 0W/40, 5W/40 or 5W/50 oil meeting
specification ACEA A2 or A3, and having a viscosity
band recommended for the temperature range of
your locality.
Engine oil &#8211; KV6 engine - NAS models
Use a 0W/40, 5W/40 or 5W/50 fully synthetic oil
meeting specification ACEA A3 and having a
viscosity band recommended for the temperature
range of your locality.
Gearbox oil
Use of gearbox oils other than those specified may
result in serious damage to the gearbox.
Manual Gearbox &#8211; PG1 and Getrag
Use Texaco MTF 94 oil or Burmah Oil MTF 1067 plus
OPEL B 0400063 for refill or topping-up.
Automatic Gearbox &#8211; JATCO
Use Texaco N402 fluid or equivalent for refill or
topping-up.
Intermediate Reduction Drive
Texaco S5 75W90; Specification: API GL5
Rear Differential
Texaco Multigear 80W-90 ETL 7441; Specification:
API GL5
Gear linkage - Manual
Use grease Part No. AFU 1500 containing 3%
Molybdenum Disulphide.
General Greasing
Use Multipurpose Lithium Base Grease NLGI
consistency No. 2.
Bonnet latch
Lubricate cable and latch with oil.
Locks, Latches and Hinges
Use Door Lock and Latch Lubricant, Part No. CYL
100020.

QUOTE "It is recommended to change the fluid at 60,000 miles and one member said the box acted like new with smooth changes etc after he had it changed. By the way there is no filter to change in the Jatco box. The change is a simple drain and refill exercise (with plenty of time to drain) and the box will not take the stated capacity as a refill as some remains in the box. The car must be brought up to operating temp after initial refill before checking level again and topping up. Whatever anyone says only fill with Texaco N402 fluid (Rover part No. VYK00040/Land Rover LNR 402) which from a Rover dealer is &#163;20.70 per 5 litres + VAT. My Rover dealer quoted &#163;70 something for a change but auto trans. places will do it for less. So not very expensive."

Thanks for the quick response. I shall try to change the oil tomorrow and let you know the outcome. Seperate question - have you disconnected your egr vavle?

Troy if its a td4 then its the jatco auto box, if as flippy hat man says near the 60,000 mile mark then i would reckomend oil change ,go into search and type in auto gear box ,i did a complete write up on how to do it at home,and use the correct oil,and after youve done it see if youve still got the same problem ,if yes ,then it will then pay ya to get a lr diagnostic, i say this cos its then down to two things [1] electronics or ecm as the stealers call it,this talks to the ems to find out speed and tourqe ect [you can diy this easy] [2] internal tourqe converter is shot [this is the auto version of a clutch liner] if it and its other bits are shot ,then this is a gearbox out jobby[heavy job] , best oh luck. . .

Troy nother thing i did not mention ,but is worth checkin,this might seem like a complete tangent but it could adversely effect ya auto box, you say you've a lot of crud by yer egr , well check yer turbo inlet rubbers, bin a lot of write ups on this recent,even the smallest hole can effect yer engine , and this in turn can hold yer gears down[it happened to me] so well worth a check. . .

hi matey just note the box is desighned to slip momenterily on 4th and 5th gear but it should only be 500 to 1000 rpm depending on how hard your driving. this is normal...if its drasticly above that then thats another story. mine had to be changed last year you may not want to know about that right now...good luck feller cartman690...

this might help you...http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-auto-sliping-gear-changes-28813.html

see also http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/02-freelander-texaco-n402-why-29842.html

Permission to ask what may be a really dumb question. I've a TD4 auto on a 54 Plate and I tow horse trailer with 2 horses. Normally no problem, I have noticed that the gear change can cause an increase in engine revs with no increae in road speed. It hadn't occured to me that an Auto box could slip. Do I have a problem with the g/b or is this something else?

Rikki

post deleted - too much db's!

not sure rikki, i thought at first it was engine management playing up but it is now definatly the box slipping . i am going to change oil tomorrow and see what happens? i have heard that some people have topped up oil and slipping stopped, but you do not top up oil like conventional boxes. you have to get the correct info on how to do it.

mad hat man , not sure what your thread means?

it means i said summat that was complete botox - and then deleted it

okay i get it now.
Quick question? do you know anything about the speed sensor , as i have had f4 flash up when slipping was really bad.

me - not a clue mate - yu ask Mondeo....

I still need to ask the muppet question. How do you know it's slipping when there is no physical connection between engine and gearbox?

Rikki

its the gearbox that slips (gears inside)