In ref to thread "http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f42/have-i-washed-my-bores-135506.html#post1396487"

I decided to go the whole hog and get a new set of leads, blue cap, rotor arm & spark plugs. Getting to the 2 spark plugs where the turbo is (was) has been a nightmare, had to put the 2 plugs in where the turbo is from the underneath, and the HT leads.

I was most £^!!*£ed off as there is NO ROOM !!, the turbo is too close to the plenum !

I have since decided the Turbo is being REMOVED and spent the last 3 days doing so off n on. The old manifolds are still on there for now (and the actual "fan" itself) until i get my new manifolds. As the turbo was an added "extra" i've capped off what I can for now temporarily until i resolve it properly. Main issue is still I can't get the V8 to go.

I havn't since checked to see if i'm still getting spark since i've changed the cap n leads etc (ill do that tommorow) but I removed all the plugs, left them out for a few days so the unburn't fuel could evaporate.
Put new plugs, leads, rotor arm, cap and HT leads in the correct order obviously. I believe I am getting spark (from the cap), and I am getting fuel but still no joy. Engine turns over but its popping and banging out of the plenum's air intake.

It even popped off the temporary dodgy bit of piping I had attatched to the air flow meter and made an almighty bang & puffs of smoke (The mass flow meter has now been moved to the near side as where it was intended in the factory as it was on the off side bolted onto the turbo)

HELP !!!

P.s The 9th injector fuel line has been plugged as this was attatched to an L shaped bend which spirted fuel directly into the plenum, the intercooler and relevant hoses has been removed. The bolt on turbo ECU has been removed and this was not tied into the orginal wireing loom, it was all bolted, so its now basically a standard 3.5 with oil cooler (as it can stay) and the old manifolds on with the fan, I just need to change em and get a new downpipe and fabricate a new straight through pipe as the on that was on their has seen better days.

P.P.S I came across

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f42/3-9-popping-back-through-inlet-131297.html

Maybe I should go down the router of an ignition amp ?

Sounds like a timimg issue if its poping. Are you sure the leads are in the right place and order?

ruffday said:

Sounds like a timimg issue if its poping. Are you sure the leads are in the right place and order?

Click to expand...

yes mate, 100%, granted yesterday I did get 1 & 8 mixed up on the cap, but I've had the haynes manual out using both diagrams to show where they all go and now I am 100%. I've actually got hold of a spare Dizzy so i'm gonna remove and replace and give a go, bearing in mind making sure car is at TDC and rotor arm pointing at no 1 before I remove it

(If it isnt, then ill make sure im not 180 degrees out, if it still isnt then yes i'll also be more inclined to think its a timing issue)

Dont take it that the dizzy is in the right place.
Check that the timing marks are in the right place then fit the leads.

ruffday said:

Dont take it that the dizzy is in the right place.
Check that the timing marks are in the right place then fit the leads.

Click to expand...

I am now also starting to think its a timing issue myself.
Just been out in the rain and took a few plugs out and took out fuel relay (and the "in" hose just to make sure) and cranked her over to see if any fuel would spurt out the cylinders.

It did not ... I re-fitted everything apart and cranked it over again, and again and still popping and banging. Took out a few more plugs and the plugs smelt of fuel but no dripping in the stuff of anything. So I am no longer thinking its a washing of bores or flodded engine etc.

I then repeated the above with a bit of throttle and lots of popps and bangs and as I do have a good spark I am happy that at least it is exploding inside there (the engine that is ) just with the above evidence in perhaps the wrong order.

BTW, i forgot to mention, when all this first happened, fuel was leaking out of a crack in the brake master cylinder to plenum breather hose. I'm told this can happen as of the fuel pressure regulator at the back of the plenum being knackered ? When I took the fuel line off the rail and stuck it into a bucket, fuel was comming out when you turned the engine over but it didnt seem to be shooting out at an alarming rate ?

It was at around the same sort of pressure as a drinking water fountain ?

To recap ..

1. I am getting spark (a good one) so i'm not thinking dizzy amp
2. I am getting fuel
3. I've checked my leads and they are in the right place according to the book
4. The engine is not "flodded" as the plugs are not wet and that their is pops and bangs
5. I do have some sort of compression (as i dnt have a compression test) I stuck me thumb over a few cylinders to see whilst it was turning over
6. I do have new plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm

I am also in the process of removing my turbo but I do know that me removing a few turbo pipes and the bolt on ECU its doubtful that it would cause non starting, maybe engine running lumpy etc as i've been told to say that as i've removed the "9th" injector and the ecu map for that I will have to advance the timing slightly on the dizzy as it would be running slightly retarted due to the 9th injector , well .... injecting. I have also plugged everything I need to plug i.e the 9th injector fuel line, a variation of old breather hoses to do with the turbo. The only line thats currently still there is the oil pipes for the actual turbo itself that i've just looped it for now.

I am going to get it to TDC on the crank (can't remember is TDC marked on the crank itself right?) then make a tip ex mark with on the engine where the dizzy arm is pointing at no.1 cylinder. Technically before I move it, it should all line up anyway which would give me either a good (or bad) indication about the timing also. Least i'd know the position of how it all was before.

Then get a gun and ask a freind to time it as he timmed my last rangie for me