O Bife

Active Member

• Sep 26, 2016

• #1

Got a tiny problem. My front left window opens but does not close unless I remove the door panel and connect a battery directly to the "up" wire.
Now this started after my so called mechanic had had to remove (and then replace) the central tunel fittings (and the fixtures around the gear stick, handbrake etc including the cubby box between the front seats) to do some work on the clutch. Now I am wondering if when refitting it all back, could he have trapped or maybe even have damaged a wire or something coming from the window's switch panel?
Anyone with an idea what might be causing this!

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• Sep 26, 2016

• #2

Could be worth trying (with windows fully up) disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting and setting all the windows etc again and see if that cures it?

 

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Donater

• Sep 26, 2016

• #3

Try removing the switch panel and contact cleaning the plug that connects to it. Contact cleaner then fit and remove several times to clean the pins.

 

O Bife

Active Member

• Sep 26, 2016

• #4

Grrrrrr said:

Could be worth trying (with windows fully up) disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting and setting all the windows etc again and see if that cures it?

Click to expand...

Done that, nowt happens. It simply will not go up. All the other windows are working along with the sun-roof.

 

O Bife

Active Member

• Sep 26, 2016

• #5

wammers said:

Try removing the switch panel and contact cleaning the plug that connects to it. Contact cleaner then fit and remove several times to clean the pins.

Click to expand...

When you say "contact cleaner" what exactly do you mean Wammers?

 

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Donater

• Sep 26, 2016

• #6

O Bife said:

When you say "contact cleaner" what exactly do you mean Wammers?

Click to expand...

Contact cleaner spray. Don't have the ignition on when you do it. There is a small multi pin plug that connects the switch pack to the loom. Remove the switch pack. Couple of screws inside cuddy box. Remove plug, spray contact cleaner on plug and socket fit and remove several times to clean the pins. Repeat a few times. Wait until contact cleaner evaporates, switch ignition on and try switches. May work may not. You can also look at the plugs and sockets behind lower trim panel at base of L/H A post. Can't see that your mechanic has disturbed those but they do get corroded with moisture and it could be a coincidental fail.

 

pwood999

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 26, 2016

• #7

More likely either door outstation has fault, or the outstation to motor contacts.

Another test would be to enable Lazy Windows, and see if they close when holding down the lock button on key fob.

 

ovalandrover

Well-Known Member

• Sep 27, 2016

• #8

If you have a nanacom you can work the widows with it and if they work ok then its in the switch pack

 

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

Full Member

• Sep 27, 2016

• #9

Dont shoot the mechanic!! If he's "so called" best to find another...

 

O Bife

Active Member

• Oct 10, 2016

• #10

ovalandrover said:

If you have a nanacom you can work the widows with it and if they work ok then its in the switch pack

Click to expand...

Well now you talk about that, the current mech closed the window by "hot wiring" the plug between the motor and the relay box within the door.
I am still wondering if a wire got "pinched" when the ex-mech was refitting the central tunel fittings. The switch pack is relatively new, less then 2 years of use. Plus, as you down between the passenger seat (our beast is LHD) and tunel fittings, you can see about 8 inches of the wiring coming out from then back into the fittings.